Intake and Cam thoughts

[kelgar50]

Im looking at buying a intake and cam for my 84,it has a 350 and a quadrajunk on it which will prolly stay cause living in cali I have to deal with the smog laws.So what im looking at is the Weiand Action Plus intake with my quad on it and for a cam im looking at the Comp High Energy 268H it is the biggest cam I have found with a C.A.R.B # for the smog police.
The specs

Weiand Intake - idle-6,000 rpm

Comp 268H
1500-5500 rpm
268* adv. duration int/exh
@ .50 218/218
lift .454/.454
Lobe center 110*

Engine 350
Trans Sm 465 4spd working on a trade for a 700r4
Rear 3.73 14 bolt
2wd
long tube headers in the near future with dual 2 1/2" exh.

I plan on going with either my ported and polished camel hump heads or some
nice Dart heads in time and the bottom end will be left alone seeing that the engine only has 46,000 miles on it.

Any thoughts or recomendations or does this look like a good setup for a daily driver?

Thanks

[2tons of fun]

dollar to donuts that cam wont smog.

[kelgar50]

Originally Posted by 2tons of fun

dollar to donuts that cam wont smog.

High Energy 268H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft Only
Lift: .454''
Duration: 268°
RPM Range: 1500-5500
C.A.R.B. Approved*



*Note: 50-State Legal for 1987 & earlier carbureted V-8 Small Block Chevy 262-400 C.A.R.B. E.O. #D-279-3, D-279-5, D-279-6

Unless im missing something here I do not see why it would not pass.

[rcflyer1234]

Looks like a good setup for a daily driver to me. I don't see why it wouldn't pass smog. Camel hump heads would be nice as long as they have hardened valve seats so you can burn unleaded fuel with them.

[2tons of fun]

that is a big ass cam and you will be flowing a lot more fuel, more fuel = more co2/comx/nox or whatever they want to call it.

i hope it works cause you will be up s creek if it dont.

you had better do some more research because odds are they wont stand behind the 50 state legal line if it fails.

[mongoose]

a comp 268 will pass our emissions testing. so will a holley =/

yeah.. if you use the camels or any smaller chamber it will be a good match.. if you keep the larger chambers.. i'd run the 262.

[2tons of fun]

ff

[kelgar50]

Well I think I will give it a try and see what happens.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by kelgar50

Well I think I will give it a try and see what happens.

Even if all the parts you use have CARB exemption numbers the whole package still has to pass the tail pipe test so you could still end up with a non-legal combination.

Don't waste your time on a set of camel back heads. The money you will spend to get a set with accessory bolt holes and to rebuild them and to have them fit with hardened exhaust seats to handle unleaded fuel just isn't worth the end results.

A set of Vortec heads will cost less and stomp the camel humps into the ground if you can get it through emissions. I doubt the older camel back heads will pass an under hood inspection if the Vortec heads won't. I'm pretty sure you can talk the emissions inspector into allowing newer cylinder heads to pass but the older heads not likely.

If you need CARB approval to pass an under hood inspection then the World SR Torquer heads are a great low cost option.

The bigger valve Sportsman heads will lose a lot of low end power especially with such a small cam needed to pass emissions.

[LiveAnimals]

All the pick ups I've been around that have a 268 in them all passed just fine

[G-Ring]

I second the Vortec head route and maybe an Edelbrock performer intake/cam package that is 50 state legal. Pick up an aftermarket Quadrajet and you'll have an excellent daily driver. Vortec's shouldn't need CARB because they're factory.

[2tons of fun]

vortecs maybe stock but not always better numbers wise than the smog stuff for his year.

a complete vortec efi system would be perfectly legal with out a second thought but a half breed system may not.

[rfmaster]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Even if all the parts you use have CARB exemption numbers the whole package still has to pass the tail pipe test so you could still end up with a non-legal combination.

Yep, in the end if the emission levels (HC, CO, NoX) are in excess of set limits it makes no difference if parts have CARB number or not.

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Don't waste your time on a set of camel back heads. The money you will spend to get a set with accessory bolt holes and to rebuild them and to have them fit with hardened exhaust seats to handle unleaded fuel just isn't worth the end results.

A set of Vortec heads will cost less and stomp the camel humps into the ground if you can get it through emissions. I doubt the older camel back heads will pass an under hood inspection if the Vortec heads won't. I'm pretty sure you can talk the emissions inspector into allowing newer cylinder heads to pass but the older heads not likely.

If you need CARB approval to pass an under hood inspection then the World SR Torquer heads are a great low cost option.

The bigger valve Sportsman heads will lose a lot of low end power especially with such a small cam needed to pass emissions.

If you have to pass smog in California, unfortunately, you can not install Vortec heads on your '86 truck.
There are couple of reasons for this due to stupid CA regs.
1) Vortec heads do not have exhaust crossover path used with conventional style EGR valve. Vortec engines (96+ SBC) use an external pipe taped into driver side exhaust to plumb exhaust gases to EGR valve. Vortec engine was introduced in 96 used a linear displacement feedback EGR valve - e.i valve provides position feedback back to PCM.
2) Vortec heads use a unique intake manifold bolt pattern as well. There are no CARB certified intakes since heads were always used with FI.
3) California Smog Nazi's do not like when you mix old with new regardless if your truck passes prescribed limits. The fact that you have (dared) changed emission control system is more important to them. This is a typical eco-Nazi BS - control freakishness aspect that is seem to be in fashion (environmentalist want to see as all on peddling bicycles in near future, like in that Kaiser commercial).

Getting back to your ride (that's what important) - get a EO D# certified or SR (68 TT has a good recommendation) heads and slap EO D# carburetor intake that takes conventional style EGR valve. This way you have all components that have been certified for pre 86 carburetor application.

The 268H cam is better suited for a lighter car application and with 110 LSA it will have a lousy idle quality (low vacuum) - high RPM HP peak. Look for a cam with just a little bit less duration (for example 252-256) and slightly wider LSA (112) for better idle. You will loose just a bit of top RPM, but will have better overall torque. Depending on your tire height I estimate that your 65MPH cruise RPMs to be in 2000 to 2200 range with 700R4. For best (DD) performance your engine should have flat torque in 1500 to 4000 RPM range.

//RF

[85Bowtie]

A 268 cam is fine, especially if you're going to use better that stock 80's heads.

ALL vehicles in CA have to pass a smog test or only certain years?

[rfmaster]

Originally Posted by 85Bowtie

A 268 cam is fine, especially if you're going to use better that stock 80's heads.

ALL vehicles in CA have to pass a smog test or only certain years?

In CA all gasoline powered vehicles 1976 model year and newer are subject to bi-annual smog inspection. This is the case for the most of California, but IIRC there are (were) several counties (out of 58) where smog check is (was) not performed. I have to re-confirm that. There are also some exceptions, but that's another story all together.

Back to a cam question - I went to comp cam website and pulled specs for XE262H cam (part 12-262-4).

http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...x?csid=92&sb=0

IMHO, it is a better cam for a spirited 350 DD with stock converter (or even slightly looser):

50-State legal on ‘93 & earlier S.B. Chevrolet V8, 262-400 c.i., C.A.R.B. E.O. #D-279-4.
RPM range 1500 to 5500
Duration: 262/270; at 0.050 218/224
Lift (1.5) 0.464/0.470
LSA 114deg
This cam in 350 with 9.0 to 9.5 compression and upgraded heads (S/R Torquer for example) and exhaust should have broad torque and good idle at 650-700 RPM with about 16 in-Hg of vacuum.

Lets not us forget that the resulting engine combination must pass 2 speed (15/25mph) sniff test and look (and sound) close enough to stock (without raising suspicions from a smog tech)!
Do not forget that Charcoal Canister must be there and connected (i.e. replace all rubber hoses ). Evaporative system is checked for integrity by applying vacuum to the gas tank filler neck and pinching off vapor line at the Charcoal Canister, unless you have dual tanks!

//RF

[kelgar50]

I do like the spec on the XE cam and the lobe sep would prolly be better as well for what im doing.

[68Timber]

The camel-hump heads were good back when they were new, now they're worth the $$$ to guys doing the numbers-matching resto - not to you. You could have your heads reworked but getting the vortec heads and having them reworked will no doubt make a big difference you can feel.

On the Comp 268, it is a much more stout cam than people give it credit for and I'd bet you'll be pleased with it. On the smog note, it's no secret California has extremely strict smog laws and I'd bet a paycheck they've never passed up an opportunity to reject anything remotely offensive. In short, if it has a CARB number, you'll be ok if you are in good tune.

The Quadrajet has a bad rap but it is an excellent carb for a daily driver that's mildly built. Unless you know how to ream it for new bushings during a rebuild, you'd be better served getting a reman from NAPA or another reputable parts house.

Your parts choice looks good and I don't think you'll be disappointed.

EDIT: As good a cam as the 268 is, 2.5" pipe is a smidge large for this cam. As long as the headers are good and the mufflers free-flowing, I think you'll be happier with a 2.25" exhaust.

[zac]

Now I see one advantage of living in Kentucky instead of Kalifornia.

On the quadrajet subject, I agree that they get a bad rap, but they can be a pain in the a$$ also. I have about 15 of them. Some work well, some don't, and sometimes it's not always obvious why. There are an almost infinite variety of little variations with them. Large and small bleed, idle bypass, APT or not, idle restrictions, and all kinds of other things. I have noticed that they will tend to have more trouble on large displacement and large-cammed engines. In short, if you want to use a junkyard one, do some research and choose wisely. There's still some controversy over whether throttle shaft wear is a big deal or not. Many times it comes when Cletus starts working on them and uses a barn-door spring for the return spring. If you can't make the q-jet work, be prepared to chuck it and start with a different one. So don't pay more than 40 bucks or so for a used one.

The problem with many rebuilt q-jets from parts houses is that they sometimes end up being a "generic" replacement for many different vehicles. The linkages may hook up right, but who knows about the internals. You may get lucky, you may not.

There's always the Edelbrock q-jet, but it is expensive and I think they are going to quit making it, if they haven't already. I can tell you that my old Competition Series AFB works great. They are simple and reliable, and Edelbrock makes a verison of them too. I'm using it while I build a late 70's Caddy q-jet to experiment with next spring. I doubt mine would pass any smog test, though.