Rear springs - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

FRENCHBLUE72 · 01-26-2003, 12:00 PM

Where would be a good place to get rear springs......And what is the loweset drop i can get for the rear....I dont really want to use blocks because it lowers the trailing arms and i dont like that idea....Does anyone maybe have a set for sale or has anyone delt with Godfather customs or Autobahn wholesale direct???

THANKS LUKE

crazy4chevs · 01-26-2003, 01:06 PM

If you have a coil rearend I believe 6" is the max you can go before you have to do major mods. I have a 4/6 drop and no clearance issues.

leafs i'm not shure about.

FRENCHBLUE72 · 01-26-2003, 11:36 PM

I have coils.......How is the ride with the 6" rear drop and do you have a pic of your truck so that i can see the stance?

Mike C · 01-26-2003, 11:48 PM

Actually, the trailing arm stays in the same place. The blocks just raise the differential housing. Changing springs raises the control arms. I would do some combination of blocks and springs rather than 6" springs in order to keep the geometry of the control arms close to stock. Also gives you some freedom to adjust height. If 6" is too much, you can not use the 2" blocks, and for 4" springs if that is too low, just use the 2" blocks.

*rustedchevy* · 01-27-2003, 03:05 AM

but since the wheels always are ont he ground the housing isnt whats moving, the arms would be lowered if you added blocks inbetween bottom side of housing and top of the arms

Mike C · 01-27-2003, 11:26 AM

I'll stick by my statement. The axle housing is either moved up, or everything else is lowered, but the geometry of the trailing arms relative to the chassis remains the same even though the housing has changed location relative to everything else. When you do springs, the trailing arms themselves have an angle change relative to the frame. Since the axle housing and everything attachted to it are moved. Or the chassis is lowered around the axle housing depending on how you want to look at it, the net effect is a change in geometry. Either method may require adjustment to the track rod depending on the amount of lowering since both move the axle housing relative to the frame mount for the track rod. The more the truck is lowered, the more careful you will have to be in the angle of the trailing arms, the length of the track rod, and the pinion angle relative to the transmission.

Blue68 · 01-27-2003, 08:10 PM

Springs - Early Classic Enterprise, Brothers, etc. Check out the part suppliers/supporters on the board's home page. For stances, start here...http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalogpg6.html

crazy longhorn · 01-27-2003, 08:55 PM

I think I would go no more than 4" max on the spring, If you want a little more you can add a block. A lot of the aftermarket bocks come with the top shaved on an angle to correct pinion angles due to the dropped spring, as Mike C has already posted. The blocks will let the trail arms /brackets , ect hang closer to the pavement, & from what i have seen about 2" is max to go on a block for a 15" wheel.....& still keep things above "scrub lines". The block wont affect pinion angle, but the springs will. Good luck...crazy

FRENCHBLUE72 · 01-27-2003, 10:50 PM

Ok i got the spring thing down !!!!untill i looked at a TURNER ad the had trailing arm brackets that had adjusting hole i guess you would call them.....Would they help the pinion angle or help eliminate the lowering block? Now im all confused....Should i just get a 4 in spring and a 2 in block or say screw it all and get airbags !!!!!!!!!!

Dazed and confused LUKE

01-26-2003, 12:00 PM	#1
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,606	Rear springs Where would be a good place to get rear springs......And what is the loweset drop i can get for the rear....I dont really want to use blocks because it lowers the trailing arms and i dont like that idea....Does anyone maybe have a set for sale or has anyone delt with Godfather customs or Autobahn wholesale direct??? THANKS LUKE __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..

01-26-2003, 01:06 PM	#2
crazy4chevs Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area) Posts: 668	If you have a coil rearend I believe 6" is the max you can go before you have to do major mods. I have a 4/6 drop and no clearance issues. leafs i'm not shure about. __________________ 70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington .

01-26-2003, 11:36 PM	#3
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,606	I have coils.......How is the ride with the 6" rear drop and do you have a pic of your truck so that i can see the stance? __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..

01-26-2003, 11:48 PM	#4
Mike C Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Austin, TX, USA Posts: 7,727	Actually, the trailing arm stays in the same place. The blocks just raise the differential housing. Changing springs raises the control arms. I would do some combination of blocks and springs rather than 6" springs in order to keep the geometry of the control arms close to stock. Also gives you some freedom to adjust height. If 6" is too much, you can not use the 2" blocks, and for 4" springs if that is too low, just use the 2" blocks. __________________ 44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax

01-27-2003, 11:26 AM	#6
Mike C Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Austin, TX, USA Posts: 7,727	I'll stick by my statement. The axle housing is either moved up, or everything else is lowered, but the geometry of the trailing arms relative to the chassis remains the same even though the housing has changed location relative to everything else. When you do springs, the trailing arms themselves have an angle change relative to the frame. Since the axle housing and everything attachted to it are moved. Or the chassis is lowered around the axle housing depending on how you want to look at it, the net effect is a change in geometry. Either method may require adjustment to the track rod depending on the amount of lowering since both move the axle housing relative to the frame mount for the track rod. The more the truck is lowered, the more careful you will have to be in the angle of the trailing arms, the length of the track rod, and the pinion angle relative to the transmission. __________________ 44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax

01-27-2003, 03:05 AM	#5
rustedchevy Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: il Posts: 115	but since the wheels always are ont he ground the housing isnt whats moving, the arms would be lowered if you added blocks inbetween bottom side of housing and top of the arms

01-27-2003, 08:10 PM	#7
Blue68 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Frisco, Tx, USA Posts: 606	Springs - Early Classic Enterprise, Brothers, etc. Check out the part suppliers/supporters on the board's home page. For stances, start here...http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalogpg6.html __________________ http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.

01-27-2003, 08:55 PM	#8
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	I think I would go no more than 4" max on the spring, If you want a little more you can add a block. A lot of the aftermarket bocks come with the top shaved on an angle to correct pinion angles due to the dropped spring, as Mike C has already posted. The blocks will let the trail arms /brackets , ect hang closer to the pavement, & from what i have seen about 2" is max to go on a block for a 15" wheel.....& still keep things above "scrub lines". The block wont affect pinion angle, but the springs will. Good luck...crazy __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

01-27-2003, 10:50 PM	#9
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,606	Ok i got the spring thing down !!!!untill i looked at a TURNER ad the had trailing arm brackets that had adjusting hole i guess you would call them.....Would they help the pinion angle or help eliminate the lowering block? Now im all confused....Should i just get a 4 in spring and a 2 in block or say screw it all and get airbags !!!!!!!!!! Dazed and confused LUKE __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..



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