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Old 05-22-2002, 04:21 AM   #1
Andreas
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Smile Hello. Thinking of a 69 C10 Stepside

Hey all. New member from the other side of the world here. Iīve been driving a K5 Blazer for the last couple of years....well, not so much driving. Mostly rebuilding, sandblasting and adding bondo I got tired of the Blazer and decided I wanted a late 60īs 2wd pickup instead. Found an ad on the internet of a guy selling his 1969 Chevy C10 Stepside. The seller lives kind of far away and I was wondering if you guys can tell me a little bit of these trucks, before I go see it in real life. F.ex what kind of brakes are in the front. Drums or discs? The seller said it had some rust. What are the places to look out for? What rear axle sat in those trucks in 69?

It has a 307 in it now but that has to go in favor for my newly built 406. Specs on it are as follows:

2 bolt 400 block bored .030". 5.7" GM rods connected to Speed Pro 10.1 hypereutic pistons. Moly rings. Fully balanced. Cam was a Xtreme Energy hydraulic 274 which I sold in favor for the new solid Xtreme Energy 274 (ill pick up another 15hp/30 ft.lbs there). Ported 520 (powerpack) heads with 2.02 & 1.6 valves, and yes the heads have steamholes. A Holley 780 vacuum (3310-S) sitting on a Performer RPM. Roller rockerarms. Magnum pushrods. New waterpump. Taylor plugwires. Hedman headers with 1 5/8 primaries and 3" collector.

Speaking of headers. Will my Hedman headers, designed to fit in a K5 Blazer, give me any issues in a 2wd pickup?

Ok, thatīs all for now

/Andreas

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[This message has been edited by Andreas (edited May 22, 2002).]
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Old 05-22-2002, 07:16 AM   #2
Randy70C-10
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Cool

Welcome from Virginia! It should have a 12 bolt rear-end. The brakes will be drum on all four. Sounds like a nice truck, stepsides are cool!

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1970 Chevy C-10 shortstep
1930 Ford Model A Coupe 4 inch chop, 350, GMC 671 blower-Hell yeah it's fast!
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Old 05-22-2002, 09:04 AM   #3
Andreas
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Yes, stepsides are the coolest imho I really love the way they look. 12-bolt you say, well that should be alright. I had 12 bolts on both my Blazers without any real problems. Changed the "yoke-bearing" once, but that was it. Iīve heard many horror-stories about front drumbrakes, how they manage to brake once but has to cool down before they brake again, so to speak. Is there any truth in this?

Thank you for your welcome

/Andreas

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Old 05-22-2002, 09:40 AM   #4
Woody
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Yea Drums in stock form are dangerous. Now there are kits to install Kevlar shoes which they claim are better than disks. They ran about $240/ axle. An easy change over is find a donor truck with disk brakes(71-87) and swap front cross members, Get everything fromt the firewall to the crossmember.

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Old 05-22-2002, 10:05 AM   #5
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Hmmm, finding donortrucks are impossible. I live in Sweden, so there arenīt any junkyards filled with U.S cars here. Too bad

Maybe I should try finding a 71 instead?

Andreas

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Old 05-22-2002, 10:20 AM   #6
Randy70C-10
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You can always order a spindle and disk brake kit from one of the venders here. They cost a little more, but you'll end up with new parts.
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Old 05-22-2002, 11:18 AM   #7
O'l Buck
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Welcome from Nebraska, Some places to look for rust are, the cab corners and rocker panels, front fenders on the bottom front part, and the bottom rear, doors, and the windshield frame, at the top corners of the windshield. Also, check the floor boards and on the stepside box, check around the edges of the fenders where they meet the boxside. Another place they like to rust is around the bolt holes for the fenders on the box. As far as drum brakes go, If I were you, I'd convert to disc front....conversion kits are available new, but pricey.

If I missed any rust spots, other members can probably tell you better, but I think my truck is one of the rustiest on the board, and that's were all the rust is on it.

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"In the words of Motley Crue, This will always be my home sweet home"

Ol' Buck: '72 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 shortbox stepside 350/350auto on '84
ralleys and 31/10.5s

Angel girl: 67 Cutlass convertible
330, 3spd stick

Greener: 90 GMC Jimmy
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no name yet: 72 442 under serious construction
my site:
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Old 05-22-2002, 03:34 PM   #8
Blue68
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Andreas,
I think the challenge you have is finding one that will be 'local' that meets your criteria. Rust can be your most expensive adversary. My guess is that getting replacement parts will be double the price to ship overseas (doubtful there are many vendors in Europe). So I would think finding a relatively rust free truck is more important than the mechanics of it. I realize finding donor trucks for disc brakes would be few and far between, but just about any 2wd Chevy truck up until around 1987 model will do. You can probably find one of those sitting out back of any American army base in Europe.

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Frisco, Tx

'68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.


Way too much money and time invested..But it's a hobby.


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'68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.
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Old 05-22-2002, 05:02 PM   #9
Andreas
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Oīl Buck. Sounds like youīre talking about my first Blazer

Blue 68. Try quadrupling the price and youīre close :/ Building my 406 cost me close to $5000 and itīs mainly built up with what youīd consider "normal" parts. Anyway, I havenīt bought anything yet and maybe I can find a decent truck with the disc-swap already done....or maybe I can find a nice 71. Funny you mentioned olī trucks from U.S armystations in Europe because I just saw an ad about a 68 C10 in good condition that had been in service in Germany. Judging by the picture it looked exceptionally clean and rust free....with a matching pricetag. Ofcourse Iīm not expecting a truck in mint condition for $500 but it just seems impossible to find trucks in the "middle-league" i.e trucks with some minor rust and a little dent here & there, with a medium price. It seems like itīs all or nothing when it comes to old trucks. Oh well. Iīm not in a hurry this time, as I was when I bought my first Blazer. This time itīll come out OK, I hope

Thanks again for your welcoming messages and info.

/Andreas

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[This message has been edited by Andreas (edited May 22, 2002).]
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Old 05-23-2002, 06:51 AM   #10
bobs409
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Arrow

Drum brakes are fine if you have them cleaned and adjusted properly. I have a '69 short stepside and my drum brakes work just fine and I have yet to experience any brake fade. They have been stopping this truck for the past 33 years so there must be some truth in what I say.

The short stepsides are the best looking IMO. They aren't the easiest to find however. I believe these will be the most collectable in the future due to their rarity. (just my biased oppinion-LOL)

------------------
63 Impala*66 Chevelle SS*69 Chevelle*69 C10 Stepside*71 Cheyenne 20*72 Chevelle

Parts for sale:
http://www.angelfire.com/trek/mr409/items4sale.html

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63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration)
66 Impala 327/PG/3.36
66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55
69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration)
69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73
69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!)
71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10
71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08
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Old 05-23-2002, 08:32 AM   #11
Andreas
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bobs409. Yeah, I guess testdriving (with some hard braking) is the only choice here.

/Andreas
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Old 05-24-2002, 06:26 AM   #12
bobs409
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Yeh, you'll get used to them! LOL Those manual drums will put some hair on your chest.

I guess im just different. I also like powerglides, manual steering, points, etc, etc. No "mod-cons" for me.

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63 Impala*66 Chevelle SS*69 Chevelle*69 C10 Stepside*71 Cheyenne 20*72 Chevelle

Parts for sale:
http://www.angelfire.com/trek/mr409/items4sale.html

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63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration)
66 Impala 327/PG/3.36
66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55
69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration)
69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73
69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!)
71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10
71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08
72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10
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Old 05-24-2002, 06:39 AM   #13
Andreas
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Talking

I like to stockpile engineparts I have no use for LOL

/Andreas

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Old 05-24-2002, 12:12 PM   #14
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all sound like symptoms of being infected with the sickness most of us here have, wait til i get my digicam, ill show you real rust and stockpiled parts!

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Randy- Lincoln, IL
randy@ccaonline.com 2177353230
parting out: '81 Cutlass Supreme, 84 SE Firebird T5 3.73, 90 corsica 3.1L, 71 C-10 project truck, 68 fenders, clean doors, repairable cab, 3.07 axle, 465 tranny, blazer tank, etc
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Old 05-24-2002, 12:29 PM   #15
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You could do what a lot of Europeans do, come to the states, buy a truck and ship it home. I see it happen all the time at Pomona. I sold a car to a guy from Belgium a year ago. A friend sold his Buick wagon to a guy from Sweden. A rust free vehicle will put you WAY ahead in the long run.

By the way, the guy who bought my car told me it cost $2000.00 to ship it home.

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Bill - Tucson, AZ
56 Studebaker 2 dr Wagon
66 Chevelle 2 dr 4 speed
71 C30 Longhorn
86 Monte Carlo SS
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Old 05-24-2002, 05:34 PM   #16
Andreas
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$2000 is waaayy to much for me. Then, when it finally gets here, I have to register this and that, pay various taxes and end up spending $5000 which wouldīve bought me a nice truck in the first place. I probably end up with a boring 77 LOL.

Actually, right now a 77 would do. Iīm going crazy if I canīt fire the 406 up soon. Have been building on it for 2 years.

/Andreas

/Andreas

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