Brakes are sticking

[oldblue1968chevy]

went from manual drum to power disc on 68 1/25 ton 2x4 chevy used 71 1/2 gmc parts.

my brakes are sticking bad.

new rotors pads calipers

I put a new MC on 6 months ago. old booster (original)? and valve is no telling how long. followed faq write up on swaping to power brakes.

what next

[oldblue1968chevy]

if somebody would post up a top view pic of the brake booster linkage from the top would be helpful. the rod is touching the firewall with the brake not pushed in is this corect

[dwcsr]

Which brakes? front or rear or both? If you used the original drum master you should get a 72 master. If the rod is out of adjustment and the plunger in the master is slightly pushed in it will drag also. If the rod id touching the firewall somethng is out of adjustment. It should be 1" or so away. You may have the inside rod to long or the master rod id to long. Did you use the rod from the booster?

[oldblue1968chevy]

I used the rod from the booster I have a 72 master Im pretty sure the front maybe both
can you adjust the master rod? id didnt find a place to adj. it at??

and when u do a power brake swap do u swap the brakde pedel or just the rod? thanks!

[oldblue1968chevy]

Ok..I *THINK* its only sticking on the front passenger side..

yesterday comming from school smoke, yes smoke was comming out from the passenger side inner fender when I raised hood. And today the passenger side rotor felt hotter. The soft line was in somewhat of a bind readjusted that.

Could I have possibly goten a 'bad' caliper? What else could cause 1 brake to stick?
Any suggestions?

HELP PLEASE!!

everybody is telling me its imposible to drive an old truck DD and I should sell the piece...and buy a 'newer cheap vehicle' to drive. Well as far as I can see a 100-1500 dollar vehicle is gonna have as much or more probs. as my truck and that money would be better spent elsewhere. (dont really have that kinda $ anyway..i do but REALLY would hate to see it go into a pos car...then have 2 pos's)....

[71tahoe]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Ok..I *THINK* its only sticking on the front passenger side..

yesterday comming from school smoke, yes smoke was comming out from the passenger side inner fender when I raised hood. And today the passenger side rotor felt hotter. The soft line was in somewhat of a bind readjusted that.

Could I have possibly goten a 'bad' caliper? What else could cause 1 brake to stick?
Any suggestions?

HELP PLEASE!!

everybody is telling me its imposible to drive an old truck DD and I should sell the piece...and buy a 'newer cheap vehicle' to drive. Well as far as I can see a 100-1500 dollar vehicle is gonna have as much or more probs. as my truck and that money would be better spent elsewhere. (dont really have that kinda $ anyway..i do but REALLY would hate to see it go into a pos car...then have 2 pos's)....

That soft line can act like a 1-way valve and keep pressure on the caliper. If it's not new, replace it.

[oldblue1968chevy]

The soft lines are brand new braided lines. I've narrowed to linkage or MC.

[CCCC]

What do you mean by "sticking"? Do you mean that you have "brakes on" due to one or more pads/shoes constantly engaged with a braking surface (rotor or drum) , or do you mean that one or more pads/shoes is not releasing immediately when you remove foot [pedal pressure?

If it is the former, you seem to have constant pressure fluid situation from the MC to a cylinder/piston. This more than likely is because the overall linkage between pedal output and MC input is too long - and that "rod" may be the problem. If you did any switching/mixing of booster/MC then it would have been easy to get the incorrect length rod installed. If you have a rod left over from the former booster/MC, check and see if it is a bit shorter than the one in there. If so, try it.

Another way to try to diagnose this for undue pressure due to length of mechanism would be to make certain that the brake pedal is fully out - not engaged. Then:
1. with the MC not fully tightened (bolts loose) to the booster, fill the MC with fluid;
2. slightly open the bleed valves on the MC;
3. tighten the bolts to pull the MC up to the booster.

If the MC "bleeds" through the valves, you are putting pressure on the MC without depressing the foot pedal. The linkage is too long. Probably need the shorter rod.


If, on the other hand, "sticking" does NOT mean a constant "brake on" situation but rather means that a pad/shoe is staying in contact with the rotor/drum when you release the pedal pressure, look for a bad return spring/mechanism, something bent/rubbing or a gunky situation that is interfering with free return travel.
Best wishes with this - don't give up on a good old truck. CCCC

[oldblue1968chevy]

Ok. I think ive got the wrong linkage..

I press brake, and pads stick to the rotors. I crack the line ON TOP of the prop. valve and fluid squirts out. Im getting pressure to the Prop. valve. And somehow we got pressure back into the MC (I think by sliding mc forward to let pressure release (like letting go of brake) put some washers in but dunno if that did it or not. I must have the wrong rod..

Anybody got the length of the rod I would correctly need (power disc brake rod).

Thanks im not giving up but going down with a fight lol.