I need help with my 2.2L

[team39763]

My 95 Sonoma with the 2.2L is acting up. I promise I'll stick with it this time if you guys can guide me through as far as what to look for. This one has high stakes for me. If I fix this truck, I can keep continue on the new project and the wife will be happy with me.
It started a few months ago. My wife said she was driving to the store about 1/2 mile from here. As she was leaving the store the truck sputtered across the intersection. She managed to limp the truck 30 yards to relative's house. When I got there the truck would turn on, but it wouldn't idle. The revs were really lazy and putting it in gear and releasing the clutch killed it instantly. I ended up revving it to around 3K(max rpms it could hit) and easing out on the clutch. It would only accept the slightest bit of throttle. Any thing more than a toe tap would bog the motor down. If I floored it, it would blubber and pop and idle at 500 or less...all with the pedal floored.
I got it home and changed the TPS, IAC, and I ran some seafoam through it. I checked the only two sparkplugs that I could reach, and they looked normal. The wires are fairly new, same with 2 sparkplugs. The truck was running fine before that trip to the store. I'm about to replace the fuel filter. I can clearly hear the pump turn on. I looked for vacuum leaks and removed and reinstalled the intake/throttlebody...nothing there. When I can get the truck to idle, and I try to take it for a drive, it bucks. I can find the sweet spot where it will accept some throttle, but like I said it bucks.
It's an OBD1 system, but the one that needs the plug(can't jump it with the wire). I'm thinking fuel system problem somewhere, but I'm not sure. Let me know what to look into...I'm sticking with it this time.

[clinebarger]

You need to check fuel pressure, Flashing codes might be possible. In the last few weeks ive seen alot of no-starts/hard-start/driveability problems caused by bad fuel. Did she put gas in right before this happened?




Fuel Pressure Specification:
With ignition ON, fuel pump running 284 - 325 kPa (41 - 47 psi)

ACCESSING CODES
Although it is recommended that a diagnostic scan tool be used to read Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) (s), it may be possible to flash trouble codes on certain vehicles equipped with a "16" pin Data Link Connector (DLC) and a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) . The DLC connector terminal "6" (diagnostic terminal, if equipped) is the third terminal from the left of the DLC connector's top row. The terminal is grounded by connecting it to terminal "5" (internal PCM ground), the terminal to the left of terminal "6" on the top row of the DLC connector.

Once terminals "5" and "6" have been connected, the ignition switch must be moved to the "ON" position, with the engine not running. At this point, the MIL (Service Engine Soon) should flash Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 12 three times consecutively. This would be the following flash sequence: "flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash-flash." DTC 12 indicates that the diagnostic system is operating. If DTC 12 is not indicated, a problem is present within the diagnostic system itself, and should be referred to Diagnostic Charts . See: Testing and Inspection

Following the output of DTC 12, the MIL (Service Engine Soon) will indicate a diagnostic trouble code three times if a diagnostic trouble code is present, or it will continue to output DTC 12. If more than one diagnostic trouble code has been stored in memory, the diagnostic trouble codes will be output from the lowest to the highest, with each diagnostic trouble code being displayed three times.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I'd start by checking and changing those last 2 plugs. Changing the plugs on my 99 2.2 was pretty easy, all of the plastic intake crap comes off the motor in only a few mintues. Changing the wires was the pain in the ass part.

[old Rusty C10]

im thinking the fuel pump/filter but like the above poster said you should do a pressure test on it

[team39763]

Thanks for the quick response guys.
I think she did put gas the day before. If its not too much trouble, I may drain the tank and pour in some fresh gas from a trusted gas station. I'm headed out there now to try that diagnostic port idea. My buddy is bringing me a ujoint fitting for my ratchet so I can get those other 2 plugs without removing the A/C system.

[team39763]

There weren't any stored codes.
I still can't get a socket on those 2 front plugs without breaking them(didn't get the ujoint I needed). I'm going to check the fuel pressure and drain the tank in the morning.

[old Rusty C10]

lowes sells them so does harbor freight and they are only a couple of bucks... buy one to have (swivel extension)

[Myself]

I think you're only running on 2 cylinders. Use a new plug and just pop the wires off one at a time and put them on the plug next to ground. Have somebody crank it over and look for spark. What you describe are symptoms of a bad coil pack.

[Rooster's 67]

check fuel pressure before you go any further. then worry bout the plugs, I bet you have a lack of or fuel pressure below specs.

[team39763]

I'm ordering tools right now - swivel extension, efi fuel pressure gauge, and spark tester.

[team39763]

Ok, I finally got my tools and stuff. The very front plug was very oily looking. The next one seemed to be covered in white ash...like it was burning white hot or something. The other two looked normal. I'm about to go drain the tank and replace the fuel filter. I couldn't afford a good EFI fuel pressure gauge, so that's out of the question for now...unless I can measure by how fast it fills a 1 gallon bucket? I would love to test and clean the injectors, but it looks like that would take a long time, but I'll do it if I have to.

[Myself]

Ok, you say one plug is very oily looking? Have you been smelling fuel lately? With the engine at idle look closely with a good flashlight at all of the injectors. It's very common for the injectors to fail on the 2.2. They go out one at a time, and usually leak fuel to the outside. I have worked on one that the injector just stuck wide open. It was flooding so bad it actually hydro-locked the engine. When I took out the plug and cranked it over about 1 qt of fuel shot out!

[team39763]

Ok guys, I just went to change the fuel filter and I got a ton of rusty looking gas coming out the lines. What's the easiest way to remedy this? My first guess is drop the tank and use something to clean it out(don't know what though). I'm lazy, so I'd rather not do that, but I will if I have to. Will my pump be ruined from all the rust and crap?

[Myself]

The fuel filter is probably original. I would expect to see rusty nasty looking crap in it. I wouldn't worry about it much. Put a piece of hose on the tank side of the line, then into a container of some sort. Turn on the key and the pump will cycle, then shut it off. This will push any remaining debris out of the line. Install your new filter.

[team39763]

The fuel filter was clogged badly when I got it out. I cycled the pump a few times like was mentioned and then installed the new filter. But the truck still acted the same. It bogs sometimes at idle, and lurches under light throttle. Flooring the pedal just results in popping through the intake and the rpms drop to around 300. What should I do next? I looked at the injectors, but didn't see any leaking. I'll get a better flashlight and check again tomorrow.

[Myself]

Did you check for spark at all 4 cylinders already?

[old Rusty C10]

did you drain the gas if you got bottom of the tank crud you can jam up the brand new filter....
The plug you took off that has the oil on it... is it oil or is it fuel? did it smell like gas?

[team39763]

I forgot to check for spark, I'll do that.

I didn't drain the gas tank because I was too lazy to drop the tank. Is there supposed to be a drain valve on the bottom somewhere? I didn't see one. I'll go ahead and drop the tank just to see what's in there.

The oily plug didn't really smell like gas at all.