It rubs the wax on the paint....advice.

[Slick67]

Painters! What is your advice on final wax jobs on new paint? I have waxed it, after the buffing and polishing, with Black Majic wax cause it does not leave buildup or residue but it seems to be "thin" and does not last long even inside the shop? Should I keep applying and build it up? What works best in your opinions??? Thanks in advance for your insight!

[too much stuff]

How fresh is your paint? I wouldn't wax any paint until it is cured. Maybe up to 90 days.

[Classic Heartbeat]

This just may be the older paints, but I was told by a PPG represenitive that you do not want to wax a new paint job for about 6 months to a year. The paint needs to gas out befor you seal it up with wax. Someone here probably knows better than I about the newer paints though. WES

[michael bustamante]

yep, at least 90 days before you wax

[landsurvey1]

The first thing you should do after it cures which is anywhere from 90 to 120 days depending on wheather conditions is wet sand it. You need to sand down the orange peel and high points, that is what gives it a really nice deep shine. After you wet sand, you need too use a rubbing compound and buff the paint out. After that, you can wax. Just my two cents for what it is worth.

[bbadfred]

Imperial hand glaze will keep it looking good til it ages! removes scratches and is safe for new paint.

[RBC67]

I know you stated in your question that you had already sanded and buffed
the paint, so maybe try Imperial hand glaze. It is awesome! A little tuff to work it in, but worth the time. As far as it's being new paint, 21 Days to max cure on all urethanes for waxing. Slightly shorter if the paint was baked.

I'll do 2 lite coats of hand glaze then follow up with a good carnauba wax with no cleaners. Two lite coats on that as well. In addition I like the micro fiber towels (Cheep at Wal-mart). Change frequently. Last step some show and shine!!!

If you are going to start from sanding and buffing, here is some interesting reading on the 3M Perfect-It system. We have been using it for 5 years now They just came out with an ultra fine machine glaze for final glazing that we will be testing next week.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...ts/Perfect-It/
Good Luck...

[Slick67]

Guys, I really appreciate it! It has been painted for over 90 days and wanted to really get a show shine on it when it is complete but without the trim on it. Sounds to me like the Imperial glaze wins. I did the wet sand and 3M three step process on it myself and it looks really smooth, after all that work I want a wax that will hold up and really bring out the color and depth.

[northerngmc]

Wax on.......



Wax off.......






Enough said......

[mbgmike]

We use butter wax on all our freshly painted vehicles. Customers really like it.
If paint jobs are buffed they are done with a clear coat polish, Like clear cut brand.

Don't have to wait otherwise cars would not get out of shop. Just have to use the right stuff. Nothing worse than buffing a car thats been sitting for months. Of course if it does not need buffing it should not need to be waxed for a while.

Not carnuba or any paste wax. otherwise we tell customers not to wax for 90 but we have done them less than 90.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by RBC67

I know you stated in your question that you had already sanded and buffed
the paint, so maybe try Imperial hand glaze. It is awesome! A little tuff to work it in, but worth the time. As far as it's being new paint, 21 Days to max cure on all urethanes for waxing. Slightly shorter if the paint was baked.

I'll do 2 lite coats of hand glaze then follow up with a good carnauba wax with no cleaners. Two lite coats on that as well. In addition I like the micro fiber towels (Cheep at Wal-mart). Change frequently. Last step some show and shine!!!

If you are going to start from sanding and buffing, here is some interesting reading on the 3M Perfect-It system. We have been using it for 5 years now They just came out with an ultra fine machine glaze for final glazing that we will be testing next week.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...ts/Perfect-It/
Good Luck...

We used the Perfect-It system on my Red/White '71 and are using it on my '36 Ford Coupe right now. Man, that system works great. I will have to check with my paint store and see if they have the ultra fine machine glaze. Thanks for posting that.

LockDoc

[nuke1]

Hey slick, in the industry We have always waited 6 months to wax a car, you can cut and buff it with polish vbut not wax, it seals in the catalysts, causing your paint to dull faster and fade quicker. Just my experience.

[RBC67]

Originally Posted by nuke1

Hey slick, in the industry We have always waited 6 months to wax a car, you can cut and buff it with polish vbut not wax, it seals in the catalysts, causing your paint to dull faster and fade quicker. Just my experience.

Wow!!! I've never heard that before??
I've worked developing and testing urethane paint for quite a few years.(20yrs.) I'm currently running the application testing lab. We look at everything we can to ensure the catalyst once it's crosslinked it's done. The reason we say 21 days is for the clear coat to reach max properties.

By using catalyst(Isocyanurate) in formulations is to control things like cure-time as well as make the paint stronger, more resistant to things like compounds, chip resistant and UV damage.

Can you let me know what paint system you are using so we can test it.
Is it BC CC, single stage or acid cat...etc.?

We have all the testing and weathering equipment so we can get 10 years of weathering data in about 2 weeks. If it is a system that is currently in the market I should have all the data without having to test.
This would be a good topic for the paint section.

Slick67: Let me know what paint you used (PPG, BASF, SW, Akzo) and I'll let you know if you will run into any issues.
Sorry to go off track!! I Don't want to give you any bad advice.

[LONGHAIR]

Acid cat...really? Does someone make an acid cat automotive paint system? I have used it before in furniture/cabintery but not cars.

[RBC67]

You are correct, not in automotive that I've ever seen. Thought I would add that because he said "wax seals in catalysts". You never know??

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

Acid cat...really? Does someone make an acid cat automotive paint system? I have used it before in furniture/cabintery but not cars.

-*.

[Slick67]

Originally Posted by RBC67

Wow!!! I've never heard that before??
I've worked developing and testing urethane paint for quite a few years.(20yrs.) I'm currently running the application testing lab. We look at everything we can to ensure the catalyst once it's crosslinked it's done. The reason we say 21 days is for the clear coat to reach max properties.

By using catalyst(Isocyanurate) in formulations is to control things like cure-time as well as make the paint stronger, more resistant to things like compounds, chip resistant and UV damage.

Can you let me know what paint system you are using so we can test it.
Is it BC CC, single stage or acid cat...etc.?

We have all the testing and weathering equipment so we can get 10 years of weathering data in about 2 weeks. If it is a system that is currently in the market I should have all the data without having to test.
This would be a good topic for the paint section.

Slick67: Let me know what paint you used (PPG, BASF, SW, Akzo) and I'll let you know if you will run into any issues.
Sorry to go off track!! I Don't want to give you any bad advice.

Hey Nuke, don't know if I can wait 6 months......I'm impatient!! hhahaa

RBC67, I used PPG for everything from the metal up. 2 coats of sealer, 4 coats of primer, 4 coats of paint, 4 coats of candy, 3 coats of clear. I used all 3M to cut and buff after wet sanding first with 1500 then with 2000 and 2500 on a couple of places that were thin and didn't want to go too deep.

[RBC67]

Originally Posted by Slick67

Hey Nuke, don't know if I can wait 6 months......I'm impatient!! hhahaa

RBC67, I used PPG for everything from the metal up. 2 coats of sealer, 4 coats of primer, 4 coats of paint, 4 coats of candy, 3 coats of clear. I used all 3M to cut and buff after wet sanding first with 1500 then with 2000 and 2500 on a couple of places that were thin and didn't want to go too deep.

lol... yeah, I can be that way too! every so often it works out.

Using all the same mfg's material is the way to go. Was it their Concept line?
It sounde like from the origional question that the just waxed feel just doesn't last long. I would try the Imperial hand glaze process.

If you don't feel that it's not that shine you want, I would go through the buffing process again. sometimes it takes several applications with each compound to get it to that level of gloss. Buffing pads can make a difference as well. Remember, your paint will never be as glossy as when its new, but you can get it real close.

Lastly, ask your paint supplier for the name of the local 3M rep. He can look at and see exactly what is going on in your case. If you have no luck there, shoot me a pm with phone number and I'll get you a contact.
Good luck Slick67.
https://corporateportal.ppg.com/NA/R...-0-Products/EN
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...ts/Perfect-It/

[DT1]

Wow, I never knew any of this.
Most everyone here is talking about "Waxing"
Are we talking about waxing or just getting the paint to look as good as possible?
I was under the impression that paint with clear coat is polished. Maybe you wax it later?
I've had some fairly new vehicles get damaged and sent to the body shop for complete panel(s) paint and they come back in less than a week. They're already buffed when they come home and look as perfect as new.

[nuke1]

Cool, this took a whole different twist now. I have used Dupont, sikkens, ppg, ..... all of our reps always told us this, and I have seen it happen. I am kinda speechless. I am glad that someone chimed in with the knowledge of this stuff, start the testing, i wann know more

[JOHNNY-CLEAN]

Everyone is correct about waiting. 3m is probably the best chemicals i have ever used but there are more afordable choices like meguires ect. Any detail shop or body shop in the area wil have a list of local detail suppliers that will have far superior and cheaper products than what you may find in a store other than 3m products. Just make sure whatever you use it says "paintable" and or silicone free. Now that is has time to cure you should be good to go with whatever tho. Good luck

[piecesparts]

I don't use a wax, instead I use a paint sealant (Shimemaster) that leaves a film of protection to repel water and dirt. The product that I use is sold under the Wizards Products line and it is amazing. I have it on my DD and it sees nasty snow, rain, sun, and a lot of dirty roads. It still stands up well and is easy to apply

www.wizardsproducts.com

[JOHNNY-CLEAN]

Wizards makes great stuff!!! It's a bit hard to find for sale depending on where you live, but great products!

[piecesparts]

I have been running this truck all winter without anything but a car wash for clean up. We have had freezing rain, a lot of snow, and lousy drivers all through it.

[nomrlz]

i was laffin my ass off when i saw the topic. my favorite line from silence of the lambs

[Slick67]

Originally Posted by nomrlz

i was laffin my ass off when i saw the topic. my favorite line from silence of the lambs

I was shooting for the Joe Dirt scene......."It rubs the lotion on it's skin"!!DANG!