Frame Split - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

treefrog · 01-31-2003, 08:03 PM

I am installing a new rear housing assembly. On the far rear of the frame, both of the spot welds have broken. Can I stabilize the frame with bolts, or should I have it re-welded? Much easier to bolt. I don't tow, so that shouldn't be an issue. I haul about 1,000 # once a year, (mulch in the spring). First one I've seen break.

Thanks for your thoughts, TF

crazy longhorn · 01-31-2003, 08:21 PM

The crossmembers should have rivets in them, I dont recall any welds. You can knock the rivets out, & use a grade 5 or 8 bolt, with pinchloc nuts(no lockwashers), they tend to split & fall out over time. The snugger the bolt fits the hole, the better. Good luck...crazyL

treefrog · 01-31-2003, 10:40 PM

This is not in the cross menber area. It is all the way at the rear of the frame, aft of where the housing bolts on with the U bolts. There are two spot welds where the two sides of the frame rails meet the the far rear of the frame. TF

crazy longhorn · 02-01-2003, 12:31 AM

would that be on the trailing arms?

lukecp · 02-01-2003, 12:38 AM

I am also thinking that it is the trailing arms you are talking about. If the spot welds broke, i would either weld them back up, or go to the salvage yard and get a replacement trailing arm.

treefrog · 02-01-2003, 05:38 PM

Yes, it's the trailing arm on the drivers side. The factory had a spot weld where the two halves meet. I'd like to try a bolt if you think it would work for a temporary fix. TF

crazy longhorn · 02-01-2003, 06:12 PM

Those arms tend to get rust between them, & open up. You might try a bolt to pull them together, but it probably wouldnt be a bad idea to run a bead of weld down the vertical groove on the back end of the arm to make sure that it doesnt separate. Good luck...crazyL

treefrog · 02-01-2003, 06:18 PM

You're right, there is a small amount of rust between the two pieces. I can bring it back together and align, and bolt. I have already removed the rsut and coated. If you think it will be OK for a limited hundreds of miles I can get it welded. At least I can get it operational. Thanks for your help. TF

crazy longhorn · 02-01-2003, 06:38 PM

I would give it a try, just keep an eye on it that it doesnt separate & let the U bolt loose....crazyL

01-31-2003, 08:03 PM	#1
treefrog Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Knoxville, TN USA Posts: 189	Frame Split I am installing a new rear housing assembly. On the far rear of the frame, both of the spot welds have broken. Can I stabilize the frame with bolts, or should I have it re-welded? Much easier to bolt. I don't tow, so that shouldn't be an issue. I haul about 1,000 # once a year, (mulch in the spring). First one I've seen break. Thanks for your thoughts, TF

01-31-2003, 08:21 PM	#2
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	The crossmembers should have rivets in them, I dont recall any welds. You can knock the rivets out, & use a grade 5 or 8 bolt, with pinchloc nuts(no lockwashers), they tend to split & fall out over time. The snugger the bolt fits the hole, the better. Good luck...crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

01-31-2003, 10:40 PM	#3
treefrog Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Knoxville, TN USA Posts: 189	Frame Split This is not in the cross menber area. It is all the way at the rear of the frame, aft of where the housing bolts on with the U bolts. There are two spot welds where the two sides of the frame rails meet the the far rear of the frame. TF

02-01-2003, 12:31 AM	#4
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	would that be on the trailing arms? __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

02-01-2003, 12:38 AM	#5
lukecp Formerly yellow72custom Join Date: May 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,531	I am also thinking that it is the trailing arms you are talking about. If the spot welds broke, i would either weld them back up, or go to the salvage yard and get a replacement trailing arm. __________________ '72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg

02-01-2003, 05:38 PM	#6
treefrog Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Knoxville, TN USA Posts: 189	Yes, it's the trailing arm on the drivers side. The factory had a spot weld where the two halves meet. I'd like to try a bolt if you think it would work for a temporary fix. TF

02-01-2003, 06:12 PM	#7
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	Those arms tend to get rust between them, & open up. You might try a bolt to pull them together, but it probably wouldnt be a bad idea to run a bead of weld down the vertical groove on the back end of the arm to make sure that it doesnt separate. Good luck...crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

02-01-2003, 06:18 PM	#8
treefrog Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Knoxville, TN USA Posts: 189	You're right, there is a small amount of rust between the two pieces. I can bring it back together and align, and bolt. I have already removed the rsut and coated. If you think it will be OK for a limited hundreds of miles I can get it welded. At least I can get it operational. Thanks for your help. TF

02-01-2003, 06:38 PM	#9
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	I would give it a try, just keep an eye on it that it doesnt separate & let the U bolt loose....crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....



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