Less costly front suspension

[blazerboy72]

Would there be any interest in a cheaper version of a front crossmember than what is currently available? I have one drawn up ready to build I just wasnt sure if it would be worth the time and effort. The way I currently have it drawn it would narrow the width about 1.5" and be able to lay frame and should be about 1/2 the price of the current offerings. I plan on building me one in the next few weeks to see how it turns out. I am not offering any thing for sale at this time, and before I do I will be a supporting member again.

[72gmcshorty]

there's always a market for a WELL built and cheaper product....WELL built being the key...

[cajundragger]

screw well built, many people can weld and cut really well.


few can design an alternative, and even fewer can mass produce them.

Porterbuilt is very good at what he does and his product is actually at a reasonable cost. I guarantee he isnt getting rich off of selling them either.

But I am interested in seeing what you build and what you think you could sell it for.

[blazerboy72]

Mine wouldnt be as nice as nathan's but should do the same thing for much less, if it goes as planned. I agree he isn't making much and I would gladly buy one if I had as much money as time.

[69 longhorn]

Well, there is a whole bunch or R&D that goes into that aftermarket front end If you are up to it,go for it......but test it on you toys before you try to market your product! The R&D is what costs, & I agree that these guys are NOT making big bucks on the product. I wont say you cant do it, but I will say it wont be easy crazyAL

[blazerboy72]

The metal is on the way hopefully it will turn out good. I probably will only build the one for my truck just the steel isn't cheap. I wasn't sure if hot rolled would have cloe engough tolerances so I will be using cold rolled 1/4 plate for this one.

[blazerboy72]

I hope 1/4" isnt too thick. This thing may weight a ton. I'm thinking 3/16" might have been better.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by blazerboy72

I hope 1/4" isnt too thick. This thing may weight a ton. I'm thinking 3/16" might have been better.

3/16" would have been the better option for cost & weight savings.

[Breader]

Good luck I sure hope it turns out OK, I'll be ready to upgrade in a few weeks hopefully you've made some progress in that time. I would sure like to save some money to use on other stuff, it blows me away that you can find those mustang II hub to hub kits for $1,200 but you can only get a dropmember and brackets for that amount.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Breader

....it blows me away that you can find those mustang II hub to hub kits for $1,200 but you can only get a dropmember and brackets for that amount.

Show us a link to what your referring to above ("hub to hub kit" for $1200).

[chevyrestoguy]

Getting the science correct is the most important thing. You can have a real pretty piece that doesn't have the correct anti-dive or caster, and you'll find out pretty quickly that even the best front end alignment guy can't fix the problem.

Nathan has really done his homework, and has actually corrected some of the factory issues that seem to rear their head when you really drop these trucks to where they look "right".

Be prepared to build more than a few crossmembers getting the science right. Plus, the more you refine, the better the outcome will be. I have considered building my own crossmember, but I found out that after it was all said and done, Nathan's crossmember was actually cheaper. I don't have direct access to laser cutters or sheet metal brakes that can bend thick metal, so all of that would have to be sent out and done at whatever the metal shop's hourly rate was. Plus, alot of that is done with computer-controlled equipment, and that has to be set up by a tech (more shop rate $$s). The more plates you have cut, the cheaper it is. Also, Nate can weld like a robot, I absolutely love that look and my welding is nowhere close to his, so that would have to be sent out, too.

I think it's awesome that you're thinking about this because it's that kind of ingenuity that makes this hobby so special. I'm just giving you honest thoughts because I was in the same boat as you.

If there's any drawback to Nathan's design (in my opinion), it's the fact that I don't want an air ride system. I'm still old school in that thinking, and I have honestly never had an air ride system. I like the simplicity of coil springs, the ease of alignment, and less tire wear issues. Nathan and I talked about this, and he's got some ideas that may eventually see the light of day.

I will own one of Nathan's crossmembers in the near future. I've got my eye on the next project truck, and it'll definately have a Dropmember under it. It's the best crossmember on the market because it's not a one-size-fits-all unit. It's designed specifically for our trucks, and it's built to last for a lifetime.

[Shane]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Show us a link to what your referring to above ("hub to hub kit" for $1200).

For real, as I'm curious too.

Been around the street rod scene a long time (where the MII stuff started) and I have NEVER seen a hub-to-hub kit for that kind of money.

[Breader]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Show us a link to what your referring to above ("hub to hub kit" for $1200).

I bought a kit on ebay a while back for $1,200 and I see them all the time when I'm looking for parts.
The one I got is the same one in the link and you can by it direct for $1,359.00 which still a hell of deal. has anyone used a MII kit on a C10?
http://www.southernrods.com/categori...duct-1870.html

[Inverter]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Nate can weld like a robot

I cant wait till Nathan has enough free time,some day,to build the Shop Truck.Thats going to be somethin.

Unfortunately,it will "take" money as well as time to turn out a successful product like this. You want to do it for the Love,not the $. There wont be any money for a long time...if any.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Breader

I bought a kit on ebay a while back for $1,200 and I see them all the time when I'm looking for parts.
The one I got is the same one in the link and you can by it direct for $1,359.00 which still a hell of deal. has anyone used a MII kit on a C10?
http://www.southernrods.com/categori...duct-1870.html

That's a weld-in kit w/smaller brakes vs. GM truck discs, stock spindles, & manual steering.

You're not taking into account the steel required for boxing the frame, the welder needed to weld it in place, the time required to prep everything (measuring everything to ensure a square installation), nor the fabrication experience.

My buddy did do a MII install on his truck. He added the upgrades (& then some) & had to cut it up to get it @ a slightly higher ride height vs. a Dropmember. He said if he had it to do over again, he'd do the DM in a heartbeat.

While Dropmembers (or other similar replacement front c.members) are not the only correct answer, they're certainly a smart, cost effective choice for many people.

[Breader]

I agree with you SCOTI Nates Dropmember is awesome especially his new tube design it looks wicked and if blazerboy72 or others don't come out with similar reasonably priced unit that is definitely what I'll be using. So get to work blazerboy72 and keep us posted.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Breader

I agree with you SCOTI Nates Dropmember is awesome especially his new tube design it looks wicked and if blazerboy72 or others don't come out with similar reasonably priced unit that is definitely what I'll be using. So get to work blazerboy72 and keep us posted.

I'm in the minority.... I like the 'old' plate style design better.

[chevyrestoguy]

I like the older, flat plate style better, too.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I'm in the minority.... I like the 'old' plate style design better.

I'll join you there. Well let me clarify. If I were to do a DM front and rear with tubular arms, 4 link, etc then yeah I would prefer the new DM. If I were going low budget using stock arms, and a small notch I think the last style fit that look better.

Then again, we are both anal about aesthetics even if you can see them...


blazerboy72- Good luck with your endevors here. Keep us posted on your progress.

[jasonb72]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I'll join you there. Well let me clarify. If I were to do a DM front and rear with tubular arms, 4 link, etc then yeah I would prefer the new DM. If I were going low budget using stock arms, and a small notch I think the last style fit that look better.

Then again, we are both anal about aesthetics even if you can see them...


blazerboy72- Good luck with your endevors here. Keep us posted on your progress.

I agree, that is why i changed to the new one since I had all that you mentioned

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Then again, we are both anal about aesthetics even if you can see them...

FYI: I don't want to see your anal!

[cajundragger]

I bet the new tubular one is easier to produce. I think it has less pieces to cut.

[blazerboy72]

Mine will be the plate design only because I dont have a bender yet. I hope to get started this week, my mock up truck was dropped off today!

[scooterskoolkustoms]

I'd like to see a new one come out,at a good price.would like to see the plans first.Ive been doing CAD for some time so it would be nice to check out the drawing.

[Shane]

Originally Posted by scooterskoolkustoms

I'd like to see a new one come out,at a good price.would like to see the plans first.Ive been doing CAD for some time so it would be nice to check out the drawing.

Whaaaa? ... you want him to just give you his designs ???