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Old 02-01-2003, 08:10 PM   #1
WORNBRAKES
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Red face So, I was taking apart my engine and......

I discovered that my #4 piston was missing a chunck out of the top of it. Not only is a chunck missing but there is about 7 nicks or gouges on it.
I was not exspecting to find this. I figured that I would have to redo the heads but had no idea that I would have to replace the pistons. I havent even checked all of the other internals, I just removed and took it apart today.
The only thihg that I can figure to do this to a piston top is a dropped valve. The valves for #4 dont look any worse than the rest. This is so disapointing. I was wanting to do this rebuild for 1000 or less but it looks as if it may cost a few extra dillars.
I measured my rod play prior to pulling them and found most within the .023 limit that my Haynes lists. My clearance on the #5 and #6 rods was .030+. I only have a phealer up to .030 I guess I will be replacing the rods also.
As I was pulling the pistons out, I found that my #3 was broken on between the rings. The dam thing basicly fell into pieces when I pulled it out.
Here are some pics of the #4
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Old 02-01-2003, 08:11 PM   #2
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another
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Old 02-01-2003, 08:12 PM   #3
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and another
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Old 02-01-2003, 08:14 PM   #4
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Here are some pics of the #3
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75 K10 Rescue **Parting out**
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Old 02-01-2003, 08:16 PM   #5
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last one.
Who else has opened this can of worms before and what did you figure the cause?
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Old 02-01-2003, 10:30 PM   #6
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good lord man! that really sucks!!! ttt
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Old 02-01-2003, 10:30 PM   #7
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Ouch. That hurts Mario. Sorry to hear the news. I had a 240Z in Japan that looked almost the same. Those are things that just mess up a good working dy on your truck!
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Old 02-01-2003, 10:32 PM   #8
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Oh yeah, I knew what caused mine. I sucked in water through the tailpipe and I guess the cold water just blew a whole in the piston and I thinkl a piece wdege/fubared my valve. I ended up having to trash that block. Hope yours is OK.
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Old 02-01-2003, 10:39 PM   #9
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Bummer. . . .
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Old 02-01-2003, 10:49 PM   #10
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thats not good...hope you can save tthe block and crank..if so i would go with main studs and an align hone..new or rebuilt rods..its probably going to take a .030 over bore to clean up..good luck
Jim
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Old 02-01-2003, 11:53 PM   #11
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Detination is the demon you are looking at. More commonly known as "PINGING". Improper timing,poor fuel,to much compression and age are some of the major contributors. It creats a rattle in the piston that is very devistateing.Your ring glans are the norrowest part of the piston so it breaks first.I've even seen the skirts break off. The dents in the top of the piston were probley from the chunk bouncing between the head and piston till it broke up small enough to be blown out the exhaust. I'm not sure of the machine cost where you are but A 350 small block,bored .030 over,new cam bearing and freeze plugs,and the heads rebuilt run about $650. A motor kit for Summit racing with 9:73 compression and all the gaskets and bearings,new oil pump,and all the little things runs around $319 with free shipping.The only thing left is your choice of cam.You might still be able to get this thing fixed for around $1000-$1100.I wish you luck.Be sure to check the big companies(Jegs,Summit,P.A.W)be for you have you local guys order your parts.Hope this helps
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Old 02-02-2003, 12:16 AM   #12
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That sucks.. I sure wish I had the funds, equipment, and space to rebuild mine..
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Old 02-02-2003, 01:30 AM   #13
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wornbrakes check out northern auto parts they have master rebuild kits for 150 bucks and that includes pistons,cam,lifters,rings, all bearings,frost plugs,oil pump,timing chain,gaskets,any sizes and all name brand parts, trw,clevite,fel pro,sealed power.
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Old 02-02-2003, 02:15 AM   #14
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hmmmm.....kinda reminds me of when I rebuilt my 330, all 8 pistons had cracked skirts and 4 had broken ring lands. I bought a 327 on an auction once that had a recent overhaul but was burning gallons of oil......pulled it apart to discover the idiot that put it together forgot to stagger the ring gaps. It shot fire down the sides of 2 pistons and scored the heck out of the cylinders......it was already bored .060, and would take at least .030 to get the cylinders trued up again. To the iron pile with it.............I agree, check Norther Auto Parts. i got the kit for my 330 from them, no problems, except the timing chain they sent was for a chevy, not an olds.
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Old 02-02-2003, 02:32 AM   #15
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not good
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Old 02-02-2003, 09:41 AM   #16
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Kind of a long drive but if interested I have a freshly machined 350 4 bolt main 010 nickle block bored 040 over and a new set of bare iron eagle heads here for 750.00. The block is ready to build and the machine work was done at ODDY PERFECTION in Sarasota before the IRS closed them down. I also have a 400 crank i'll throw in for it.
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Old 02-02-2003, 08:15 PM   #17
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Thanks for the coments and probable causes. When I drove the truck down here from WA, it tended to run hot at times. I figure running it at 4000 rpm for just over 3000 miles in the middle of summer was going to be bad but didn't figure it to be this bad. The block is a 69 327 and to the eye and hand, the cylinders seem to have only normal wear. I figured that the cylinders from these two pistons would be scared bad but they arn't. It has been bored 030 before, so I may have to take it out to 060. I havn't looked over the crank or the heads yet. I am hoping the crank only ntb polished. I know that the heads need work. They were smoking for about the last 1500 miles or so. I will check out Northern, and the others to see what I find. Mothertruckers, if my crank is bad or I find anything else wrong with the block when I get it cleaned, I may need your set up.
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69 C10 305/350
71 K5 Basket case
75 K10 Rescue **Parting out**
77 MG Midget **Parting out**
15 6.7L Cummins
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Old 02-02-2003, 09:29 PM   #18
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I agree with MikeP684x4... Detination!
If anyone ever wonders what pinging does to a motor..... Now you know what it does / looks like.

Sorry.

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Old 02-02-2003, 10:07 PM   #19
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I would have to agree with mikep684x4 looks like a bad case of detonation damage. The extreme heat most likely butted the ring gap on the number 3 piston then the ring land gave way. Take a look at the ends of the ring gap and see if they are shiny indicating that they have butted together. Was the engine running decent in that condition? Good luck on your rebuild....Stroker
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Old 02-03-2003, 06:12 AM   #20
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To answer your question Stroker, the engine was running fine for the most part. I parked it because the blowby was real bad and I gunked up a few plugs on the #3. But it ran decent.
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Mario and Mandy
Hughesville, MD 20637

69 C10 305/350
71 K5 Basket case
75 K10 Rescue **Parting out**
77 MG Midget **Parting out**
15 6.7L Cummins
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Old 02-03-2003, 12:55 PM   #21
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My initial impression is detonation as well. Except that the pistion right next door (left) is nice and clean. Another thought would be a blown head gasket letting in coolant. This (or detonation) could explain the running hot. It's difficult to tell since he's scraped the head gasket area already.

Regardless, it sucks to find things like this. Hopefully the cylinder walls are not too scarred to rebuild.

Good luck.
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Old 02-03-2003, 05:53 PM   #22
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It's amazing how much damage a Chevy engine can suffer and still be servicable.
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