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02-02-2003, 06:53 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Detroit Lakes, Minnesota
Posts: 885
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what do you guys think of the mallory unilite
i might be buying one off ebay. its mechanical advance, how does that hook up? and it says the flange has been machined to.100 so it sits lower. what do you think? good buy?
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1971 k5 blazer 80k mike survivor 1972 3/4 ton 4wd Cummins 12v 1967 swb 2wd 427bbc 1968 4wd shortbox 1971 Cheyenne swb k10 unrestored 1971 Cheyenne super 40k 402bb survivor 1967 Chevy k10 (first truck) 1968 L78 camaro survivor 18k miles 1969 z28 survivor 60k miles 1969 z28 survivor 39k miles 1969 z28 rs survivor 80k miles |
02-02-2003, 07:14 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Detroit Lakes, Minnesota
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can anyone tell me if i should get mechanical or vacuum advance?
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1971 k5 blazer 80k mike survivor 1972 3/4 ton 4wd Cummins 12v 1967 swb 2wd 427bbc 1968 4wd shortbox 1971 Cheyenne swb k10 unrestored 1971 Cheyenne super 40k 402bb survivor 1967 Chevy k10 (first truck) 1968 L78 camaro survivor 18k miles 1969 z28 survivor 60k miles 1969 z28 survivor 39k miles 1969 z28 rs survivor 80k miles |
02-02-2003, 07:17 PM | #3 |
Car Knocker
Join Date: May 2001
Location: jefferson,arkansas
Posts: 664
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IMO you should have a vac advance on a street motor. There are exceptions. I have had a Mallory Unilite in a Oldmobile 350 for about 15 years. No problems except for the occasional lite module.
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68 c-10,91 sportside bed,350 .030 over,4 bolt,10-1 comp,2.05 intake/1.94 exhaust,1.6 Harland Sharp roller rockers,edelbrock rpm cam and intake w/750 carb, 700r4, 3.73 gears,Jacabbs Electronic Igntion w/Accel HEI distributer and super coil. ZR-1 roll pan, filled tailights. Blazer tank. Hidden hitch. 2 1/2" Flowmaster 40's. Parts bought but not installed>> ford 9" posi with disc. CCP front and rear lowering kit 4/5. Cab corners,foor boards,rockers, cab braces, Phatom grill, Painless wiring kit. |
02-02-2003, 07:21 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Detroit Lakes, Minnesota
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alright thanks a lot
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1971 k5 blazer 80k mike survivor 1972 3/4 ton 4wd Cummins 12v 1967 swb 2wd 427bbc 1968 4wd shortbox 1971 Cheyenne swb k10 unrestored 1971 Cheyenne super 40k 402bb survivor 1967 Chevy k10 (first truck) 1968 L78 camaro survivor 18k miles 1969 z28 survivor 60k miles 1969 z28 survivor 39k miles 1969 z28 rs survivor 80k miles |
02-02-2003, 07:24 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Detroit Lakes, Minnesota
Posts: 885
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how do you hook up the thing with vacuum advance? i know nothing about ignition systems as you can see haha
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1971 k5 blazer 80k mike survivor 1972 3/4 ton 4wd Cummins 12v 1967 swb 2wd 427bbc 1968 4wd shortbox 1971 Cheyenne swb k10 unrestored 1971 Cheyenne super 40k 402bb survivor 1967 Chevy k10 (first truck) 1968 L78 camaro survivor 18k miles 1969 z28 survivor 60k miles 1969 z28 survivor 39k miles 1969 z28 rs survivor 80k miles |
02-02-2003, 07:44 PM | #6 |
Car Knocker
Join Date: May 2001
Location: jefferson,arkansas
Posts: 664
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Vac advance is no more than a canister on the side of distrubuter. To hook up, put vac line to a vac. source on carb. It will then give you advance @ a preset value in your canister. You will get better gas milage. You still have mech. advance preset @ a given rpm by weights and springs. Hope it helps.
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02-02-2003, 07:54 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Paradise TX USA
Posts: 1,200
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The Unilite is a good simple design. I've had one on my 69 for about 15 years. All I've ever had to do to it is replace the module once. It is a simple 3 wire hook up using your existing ignition coil.
Or you can use a hotter aftermarket coil if you want to. The vacuum advance hooks up with a vacuum line to the carb, just like your old points type distributor. The vacuum advance type is the way to go for a street application. You might also want to consider buying an HEI distributor. It's a one wire, one vacuum line hook up, and probably less money than the Unilite.
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"Negative people always seem to have a problem for every solution" |
02-02-2003, 08:04 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Detroit Lakes, Minnesota
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well the unilite i can get the unilite, resister, and coil for 100.00 its used, but it looks really nice. is this a good deal
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1971 k5 blazer 80k mike survivor 1972 3/4 ton 4wd Cummins 12v 1967 swb 2wd 427bbc 1968 4wd shortbox 1971 Cheyenne swb k10 unrestored 1971 Cheyenne super 40k 402bb survivor 1967 Chevy k10 (first truck) 1968 L78 camaro survivor 18k miles 1969 z28 survivor 60k miles 1969 z28 survivor 39k miles 1969 z28 rs survivor 80k miles |
02-02-2003, 10:07 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
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HEI's are a bargain, and a darn good distributer. I had a unilite too...not complaints.
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02-03-2003, 10:50 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Paradise TX USA
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$100 sounds a little high for a used unilite to me?
You won't need the resistor or the coil. Your existing coil will work, and the wiring to the ign coil already has the resistor in it. Look around and you can probably find a good used HEI for 50 bucks or less. I actually think the HEI is better than a Uilite. All you need to hook it up is one 12 volt wire.
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"Negative people always seem to have a problem for every solution" |
02-03-2003, 11:44 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Detroit Lakes, Minnesota
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i actually found a really nice unilite for 60.00 and i bought it, i would get a hei, but i like how the unilite is so small, but again you can never go wrong with a hei. . thanks guys
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1971 k5 blazer 80k mike survivor 1972 3/4 ton 4wd Cummins 12v 1967 swb 2wd 427bbc 1968 4wd shortbox 1971 Cheyenne swb k10 unrestored 1971 Cheyenne super 40k 402bb survivor 1967 Chevy k10 (first truck) 1968 L78 camaro survivor 18k miles 1969 z28 survivor 60k miles 1969 z28 survivor 39k miles 1969 z28 rs survivor 80k miles |
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