Pitted metal in roof - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ol Curt · 03-06-2010, 07:47 PM

I am getting ready to strip my cab down. Now remember, ol curt does things HIS way and the interior is done. So....blasting is out of the question.

I am sanding it and finding a lot of pitted areas. They don't seem to be rusted thru but I am unsure of how to treat them.

Remember the truck will be a driver but will seldom be driven in bad weather. Should I use a product like rust reformer and just skim coat over the whole roof before priming?

markeb01 · 03-06-2010, 08:23 PM

I had the same problem with my wifes 68 F250. I used U-Pol catalyzed primer as shown at the link below:

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=PRI

It can be rolled on, so there's no overspray to deal with and goes on very thick so there's a lot of film thickness to block out. It's been sitting outside unprotected for about 3 years now and looks like the day I put it on.

ol Curt · 03-06-2010, 09:11 PM

Bad linky, I thinky

**GruntMoanCough** · 03-06-2010, 09:59 PM

Linky worky for me.

Maybe try this linky... .http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...g+Removal+Disc... plastic abrasive wheel to clean out the pits.

jyaughn · 03-06-2010, 11:06 PM

so with that primer you just roll it on and sand it off and all the pit holes will be filled?

markeb01 · 03-07-2010, 12:17 AM

Yes, in fact I used the same stuff on the top of my rear fenders. After 10 years on a gravel road the tops were littered with star chips. Rather than completely stripping to bare metal, I thoroughly feather edged all the chips, which left the surface clean but wavy. I rolled on the primer, let it cure, blocked it out and shot on the finish paint. Even when wet the fenders shine perfectly smooth. This stuff goes on thick and doesn't shrink, so it doesn't cause any problems later on. If you've got deep pits it's always imperative to get all the rust and crud out. If I had rusty pits I would scrub them with metal prep first to neutralize any rust before priming.

ol Curt · 03-07-2010, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GruntMoanCough

Linky worky for me.

Maybe try this linky... .http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...g+Removal+Disc... plastic abrasive wheel to clean out the pits.

Have one of those and find it way too stiff to get down in the pits.
So, the U-Pol is not a converter, just a primer?

ChopperDr · 03-07-2010, 03:38 PM

Do you want to fix it, or cover it up? The right way is to remove the rust. Cut it out, or blast it. Then fill the pits. Converters and all the other snake oil is for a temporary fix. The rust will come back.

Chopster

markeb01 · 03-07-2010, 03:42 PM

That's correct, not a converter just a 2 part primer. If the pits are really deep and can't be sandblasted, converter is really the way to go before primer. For the last 10 years or so I've been using Picklex 20. http://www.picklex20.com/1142290.html

Another benefit of Picklex is when you are going to do partial work and leave bare metal unprotected for an extended period, just spray the bare metal with Picklex, keep it dry, and it will remain that way indefinitely (no rust). I have a mint condition grille in the basement I was saving for chroming. I had it soda blasted about 5 years ago. As soon as I cleaned it up I sprayed it with Picklex 20 and it looks exactly how it did years ago.

Before that I used the red stuff Eastwood sells (years before they bought the rights) and it worked fine, although it's thicker and goes on like paint. The problem with Eastwood is their excessive pricing.

03-06-2010, 07:47 PM	#1
ol Curt Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Newburgh, IN Posts: 1,247	Pitted metal in roof I am getting ready to strip my cab down. Now remember, ol curt does things HIS way and the interior is done. So....blasting is out of the question. I am sanding it and finding a lot of pitted areas. They don't seem to be rusted thru but I am unsure of how to treat them. Remember the truck will be a driver but will seldom be driven in bad weather. Should I use a product like rust reformer and just skim coat over the whole roof before priming? __________________ 1966 Chevy C10 Longbed I'm Bob....ol Curt was my Grandpa The truck was his and he sure as heck wouldn't understand why I took a perfectly good truck and tore it down!

03-06-2010, 08:23 PM	#2
markeb01 Senior Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Spokane Valley, WA Posts: 8,356	Re: Pitted metal in roof I had the same problem with my wifes 68 F250. I used U-Pol catalyzed primer as shown at the link below: http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=PRI It can be rolled on, so there's no overspray to deal with and goes on very thick so there's a lot of film thickness to block out. It's been sitting outside unprotected for about 3 years now and looks like the day I put it on.

03-06-2010, 09:11 PM	#3
ol Curt Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Newburgh, IN Posts: 1,247	Re: Pitted metal in roof Bad linky, I thinky __________________ 1966 Chevy C10 Longbed I'm Bob....ol Curt was my Grandpa The truck was his and he sure as heck wouldn't understand why I took a perfectly good truck and tore it down!

03-06-2010, 09:59 PM	#4
GruntMoanCough Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Pemberton, BC Posts: 1,075	Re: Pitted metal in roof Linky worky for me. Maybe try this linky... .http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...g+Removal+Disc... plastic abrasive wheel to clean out the pits. __________________ My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am - Unknown

03-06-2010, 11:06 PM	#5
jyaughn Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: columbus ga Posts: 231	Re: Pitted metal in roof so with that primer you just roll it on and sand it off and all the pit holes will be filled?

03-07-2010, 12:17 AM	#6
markeb01 Senior Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Spokane Valley, WA Posts: 8,356	Re: Pitted metal in roof Yes, in fact I used the same stuff on the top of my rear fenders. After 10 years on a gravel road the tops were littered with star chips. Rather than completely stripping to bare metal, I thoroughly feather edged all the chips, which left the surface clean but wavy. I rolled on the primer, let it cure, blocked it out and shot on the finish paint. Even when wet the fenders shine perfectly smooth. This stuff goes on thick and doesn't shrink, so it doesn't cause any problems later on. If you've got deep pits it's always imperative to get all the rust and crud out. If I had rusty pits I would scrub them with metal prep first to neutralize any rust before priming.

03-07-2010, 03:38 PM	#8
ChopperDr Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: WA Posts: 189	Re: Pitted metal in roof Do you want to fix it, or cover it up? The right way is to remove the rust. Cut it out, or blast it. Then fill the pits. Converters and all the other snake oil is for a temporary fix. The rust will come back. Chopster

03-07-2010, 03:42 PM	#9
markeb01 Senior Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Spokane Valley, WA Posts: 8,356	Re: Pitted metal in roof That's correct, not a converter just a 2 part primer. If the pits are really deep and can't be sandblasted, converter is really the way to go before primer. For the last 10 years or so I've been using Picklex 20. http://www.picklex20.com/1142290.html Another benefit of Picklex is when you are going to do partial work and leave bare metal unprotected for an extended period, just spray the bare metal with Picklex, keep it dry, and it will remain that way indefinitely (no rust). I have a mint condition grille in the basement I was saving for chroming. I had it soda blasted about 5 years ago. As soon as I cleaned it up I sprayed it with Picklex 20 and it looks exactly how it did years ago. Before that I used the red stuff Eastwood sells (years before they bought the rights) and it worked fine, although it's thicker and goes on like paint. The problem with Eastwood is their excessive pricing.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.