Sticky situation - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

1-2many · 03-10-2010, 09:43 PM

I thought I would be brave and pull out the front windshield and replace it since I had luck with the rear (but the stainless molding was a pain). I found the La Brea Tar Pits under the gasket. It looks like they used the sticky stuff for gasketless windows to keep it from leaking? Is there any easy way to get this stuff off? On the good side, the rust is less than I expected for all the leaking the window did.
Thanks Guys

1-2many · 03-10-2010, 09:46 PM

More picts for those who like images.

hayhauler71 · 03-10-2010, 09:52 PM

4 inch grinder with a wire wheel and face shield. Then clean up with lacquer thinner.

rico7769 · 03-10-2010, 10:50 PM

Second for the grinder and some time invested.

bubba35741 · 03-10-2010, 10:53 PM

Good old liquid butyl.......Engine gasket scrapper will work about as good as anything, spray it with a foaming glass cleaner and it will not be as sticky.

1-2many · 03-11-2010, 02:15 AM

Thanks guys,
I'll try the grinder with the wire wheel. Just hope I don't track any butyl in the house or I'll be sleeping in the cab without the windshield.

Jay

ERASER5 · 03-11-2010, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1-2many

Thanks guys,
I'll try the grinder with the wire wheel. Just hope I don't track any butyl in the house or I'll be sleeping in the cab without the windshield.

Jay

What? No kids or a dog to blame the black tracks on?

Yes, I kid so that I don't cry.

Hottrucks · 03-11-2010, 08:57 AM

I need to replace my gacket too if you dont mind I would like to know whos gasket you got and how things go mine has the trim also...I had it out to repair the rust but the gasket is shot to say the least....I have done a few windshields with a piece of #10 wire and plenty of sylicone..

thanx
jeff

**LockDoc** · 03-11-2010, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

I need to replace my gacket too if you dont mind I would like to know whos gasket you got and how things go mine has the trim also...I had it out to repair the rust but the gasket is shot to say the least....I have done a few windshields with a piece of #10 wire and plenty of sylicone..

thanx
jeff

I only use the "Precision" brand windshield gaskets. If Steele Rubber Products makes one it would be a good one too.

LockDoc

Hottrucks · 03-11-2010, 05:00 PM

who carry's them..I would imgine you shopped them??

Jeff

1-2many · 03-11-2010, 09:10 PM

I got my gasket from Classic Industries for about 34.99. Part #pw 1025. I was made by Precision, but I threw the bag out and don't have their part number.
My glass I got local

for $80. I hope Fuyao is not going to be a problem. I'll let you know if I should have spent the money for PPG.
Jay

Hottrucks · 03-11-2010, 09:23 PM

Hmmm I guess I'll check the local shop my buddy just had a new windshield put in his Ford cost him $225...I think its worth a 100 for them to own it!! If I break it or bend up the trim it will cost me alot more...guess I'll get a quote..at least that's free and then I can get the A/C tinted winshield which it should of had to start??

**LockDoc** · 03-11-2010, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

who carry's them..I would imgine you shopped them??

Jeff

I would think any vendor would have them. I get my stuff from "Arts Classic Truck Parts" here in Iowa. He's local to me so I can pick them up.

LockDoc

bubba35741 · 03-11-2010, 10:03 PM

The old original glass is alot thicker. The new ones are much easier to break due to not being as thick. These w/s were prone to leaks from day one and as an old glass man I always sealed them. It is much easier without the chrome but these are not easy installs either way. Back glass is a piece of cake. DO NOT use silicone as a lube for the gasket!!! It is slick but is a painters nightmare, fish eye city! (same for armor-all).

1-2many · 03-12-2010, 01:02 AM

Ohh, pooh.
I most likely will have to add something to keep my thin Chinese windshield from leaking. What would be a good filler?
Jay

**LockDoc** · 03-12-2010, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1-2many

Ohh, pooh.
I most likely will have to add something to keep my thin Chinese windshield from leaking. What would be a good filler?
Jay

I have put 4 or 5 of the $80 windshields in without using any sealer and haven't had any problems with them leaking.

LockDoc

1-2many · 03-13-2010, 06:11 PM

Thanks Hayhauler. I used your suggestion. 10k of unbalanced wire wheel was a lot of fun, though. I looked like a pin cushion when I was done. I'm still pulling broken wires out of my shirt and pants. I really lucked out with so little rust.

Its ready for etching primer and temporary paint. Window soon, I hope.

**LockDoc** · 03-13-2010, 11:35 PM

-
Be sure and dig that old sealer out if the body seams and put in new. That is where it will leak if you don't.

LockDoc

Jeffs70 · 03-14-2010, 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I have put 4 or 5 of the $80 windshields in without using any sealer and haven't had any problems with them leaking.

LockDoc

Yes with the factory seals they do not need any sealer, I do windows and windshields for a living and If using sealer can cause more issues then with out on these old windshields and factory seals.

1-2many · 03-14-2010, 02:11 PM

Thanks LockDoc and Jeffs70. I bought a tube of 3M all around auto body sealer for the seams and almost have the old all dug out (dental pick time). Also, do I put the molding in the gasket before or after the window is in the truck? And is it easier to start the rope from the top or the bottom of the gasket?
Jay

Hottrucks · 03-14-2010, 02:26 PM

I always start the wire on the bottom its much easier to work the top near the end and when you place the glass the bottom is half done already....

but I want to hear about the seam choice ...I don't want to do mine again either and with my new interior I would just asoon not have it leak and risk breaking it a second time

**LockDoc** · 03-14-2010, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1-2many

Thanks LockDoc and Jeffs70. I bought a tube of 3M all around auto body sealer for the seams and almost have the old all dug out (dental pick time). Also, do I put the molding in the gasket before or after the window is in the truck? And is it easier to start the rope from the top or the bottom of the gasket?
Jay

------------------------------------
Here's for the trim from GMCPaul:

Install trim in rubber seal and make sure its fully seated in its groove then install rubber on glass and again make sure trim stayed fully seated in seal, then install windshield.

Deluxe windshield seal with trim, always use a 71-72 seal with 71-72 SS trim, and 67-70 always use a 67-70 seal with SS deluxe trim.
----------------------------------------------

There two styles of trim and each one takes a different rubber seal. That is what Paul is talking about above. I would suggest at least 3 people to install a windshield with trim, 4 would be better.

LockDoc

1-2many · 03-15-2010, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Deluxe windshield seal with trim, always use a 71-72 seal with 71-72 SS trim, and 67-70 always use a 67-70 seal with SS deluxe trim.

LockDoc

It looks like I have the 71-72 trim for my 67-70 seal on my 70 truck. The groove is not deep enough for the trim. What luck. Can I use a 71-72 seal without any leaking issues (Maybe that's why there was so much butyl around it). It would be cheaper than getting new stainless. Or can I just leave the trim out and go without bling? I knew I should have saved the bag.

Jay

**LockDoc** · 03-15-2010, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1-2many

It looks like I have the 71-72 trim for my 67-70 seal on my 70 truck. The groove is not deep enough for the trim. What luck. Can I use a 71-72 seal without any leaking issues (Maybe that's why there was so much butyl around it). It would be cheaper than getting new stainless. Or can I just leave the trim out and go without bling? I knew I should have saved the bag.

Jay

Jay,

The seals are the same except for the depth of the groove.

LockDoc

Security guy · 03-15-2010, 10:39 PM

I just installed my windshield two weeks ago with help from the glass guy (I say that cause the glass guy wasn't doing a very good job). We had to put the rubber around the glass first, then install the trim into the rubber. After that we started with rope in the groove. We started at the top center and pulled the upper corners in first. The glass guy had said that most people leave the top for last and that usually breaks the glass. The top corners don't flex much and its easier to put them in first, than work your way down the sides and then bottom. It took the two of us about 3-4 hours to get in installed with the trim. (It took the glass guy an hour fooling with the rubber trying to get it and the trim installed onto the glass. It was alot easier to put rubber on, then the trim then install).

03-10-2010, 09:46 PM	#2
1-2many Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Central California Posts: 39	Re: Sticky situation More picts for those who like images. Attached Images __________________ Free beer is good beer.

03-10-2010, 09:52 PM	#3
hayhauler71 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: St. Paul MN. Posts: 1,996	Re: Sticky situation 4 inch grinder with a wire wheel and face shield. Then clean up with lacquer thinner.

03-10-2010, 10:50 PM	#4
rico7769 Hybrid67 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Martinez, GA Posts: 195	Re: Sticky situation Second for the grinder and some time invested. __________________ Keep em' Running! All show.....no go

03-10-2010, 10:53 PM	#5
bubba35741 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Ryland Alabama Posts: 97	Re: Sticky situation Good old liquid butyl.......Engine gasket scrapper will work about as good as anything, spray it with a foaming glass cleaner and it will not be as sticky.

03-11-2010, 02:15 AM	#6
1-2many Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Central California Posts: 39	Re: Sticky situation Thanks guys, I'll try the grinder with the wire wheel. Just hope I don't track any butyl in the house or I'll be sleeping in the cab without the windshield. Jay __________________ Free beer is good beer.

03-10-2010, 09:43 PM	#1
1-2many Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Central California Posts: 39	Sticky situation I thought I would be brave and pull out the front windshield and replace it since I had luck with the rear (but the stainless molding was a pain). I found the La Brea Tar Pits under the gasket. It looks like they used the sticky stuff for gasketless windows to keep it from leaking? Is there any easy way to get this stuff off? On the good side, the rust is less than I expected for all the leaking the window did. Thanks Guys Attached Images __________________ Free beer is good beer.

03-11-2010, 08:57 AM	#8
Hottrucks Redefining LowBudget Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: lebanon Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,538	Re: Sticky situation I need to replace my gacket too if you dont mind I would like to know whos gasket you got and how things go mine has the trim also...I had it out to repair the rust but the gasket is shot to say the least....I have done a few windshields with a piece of #10 wire and plenty of sylicone.. thanx jeff __________________ 1970 C10 CST fleetside 472 ....big dreams little cash... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335721 SunShine Syndicate.. Mikes Sandwich Fair Run OCT 8th 2011 http://www.thesandwichfair.com/html/...auto_show.html

03-11-2010, 05:00 PM	#10
Hottrucks Redefining LowBudget Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: lebanon Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,538	Re: Sticky situation who carry's them..I would imgine you shopped them?? Jeff __________________ 1970 C10 CST fleetside 472 ....big dreams little cash... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335721 SunShine Syndicate.. Mikes Sandwich Fair Run OCT 8th 2011 http://www.thesandwichfair.com/html/...auto_show.html

03-11-2010, 09:10 PM	#11
1-2many Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Central California Posts: 39	Re: Sticky situation I got my gasket from Classic Industries for about 34.99. Part #pw 1025. I was made by Precision, but I threw the bag out and don't have their part number. My glass I got local for $80. I hope Fuyao is not going to be a problem. I'll let you know if I should have spent the money for PPG. Jay __________________ Free beer is good beer.

03-11-2010, 09:23 PM	#12
Hottrucks Redefining LowBudget Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: lebanon Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,538	Re: Sticky situation Hmmm I guess I'll check the local shop my buddy just had a new windshield put in his Ford cost him $225...I think its worth a 100 for them to own it!! If I break it or bend up the trim it will cost me alot more...guess I'll get a quote..at least that's free and then I can get the A/C tinted winshield which it should of had to start?? __________________ 1970 C10 CST fleetside 472 ....big dreams little cash... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335721 SunShine Syndicate.. Mikes Sandwich Fair Run OCT 8th 2011 http://www.thesandwichfair.com/html/...auto_show.html

03-11-2010, 10:03 PM	#14
bubba35741 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Ryland Alabama Posts: 97	Re: Sticky situation The old original glass is alot thicker. The new ones are much easier to break due to not being as thick. These w/s were prone to leaks from day one and as an old glass man I always sealed them. It is much easier without the chrome but these are not easy installs either way. Back glass is a piece of cake. DO NOT use silicone as a lube for the gasket!!! It is slick but is a painters nightmare, fish eye city! (same for armor-all).

03-12-2010, 01:02 AM	#15
1-2many Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Central California Posts: 39	Re: Sticky situation Ohh, pooh. I most likely will have to add something to keep my thin Chinese windshield from leaking. What would be a good filler? Jay __________________ Free beer is good beer.

03-13-2010, 06:11 PM	#17
1-2many Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Central California Posts: 39	Re: Sticky situation Thanks Hayhauler. I used your suggestion. 10k of unbalanced wire wheel was a lot of fun, though. I looked like a pin cushion when I was done. I'm still pulling broken wires out of my shirt and pants. I really lucked out with so little rust. Its ready for etching primer and temporary paint. Window soon, I hope. Attached Images __________________ Free beer is good beer.

03-13-2010, 11:35 PM	#18
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,395	Re: Sticky situation - Be sure and dig that old sealer out if the body seams and put in new. That is where it will leak if you don't. LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 -

03-14-2010, 02:11 PM	#20
1-2many Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Central California Posts: 39	Re: Sticky situation Thanks LockDoc and Jeffs70. I bought a tube of 3M all around auto body sealer for the seams and almost have the old all dug out (dental pick time). Also, do I put the molding in the gasket before or after the window is in the truck? And is it easier to start the rope from the top or the bottom of the gasket? Jay __________________ Free beer is good beer.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

03-14-2010, 02:26 PM	#21
Hottrucks Redefining LowBudget Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: lebanon Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,538	Re: Sticky situation I always start the wire on the bottom its much easier to work the top near the end and when you place the glass the bottom is half done already.... but I want to hear about the seam choice ...I don't want to do mine again either and with my new interior I would just asoon not have it leak and risk breaking it a second time __________________ 1970 C10 CST fleetside 472 ....big dreams little cash... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335721 SunShine Syndicate.. Mikes Sandwich Fair Run OCT 8th 2011 http://www.thesandwichfair.com/html/...auto_show.html

03-15-2010, 10:39 PM	#25
Security guy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sarasota, Fl. Posts: 441	Re: Sticky situation I just installed my windshield two weeks ago with help from the glass guy (I say that cause the glass guy wasn't doing a very good job). We had to put the rubber around the glass first, then install the trim into the rubber. After that we started with rope in the groove. We started at the top center and pulled the upper corners in first. The glass guy had said that most people leave the top for last and that usually breaks the glass. The top corners don't flex much and its easier to put them in first, than work your way down the sides and then bottom. It took the two of us about 3-4 hours to get in installed with the trim. (It took the glass guy an hour fooling with the rubber trying to get it and the trim installed onto the glass. It was alot easier to put rubber on, then the trim then install).

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.