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Old 02-04-2003, 07:50 PM   #1
Ironhorse
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Unhappy Broke My Truck-Kinda

Snapped the clutch pivot ball-stud on my '71 4x4 and have not had much luck in finding a replacement. Everyone says " What's that off of?" when I go to the parts house. Even tried the local Chevrolet Dealer parts counter. Bad idea, my truck is older than everyone working the counter! Blank look, and "My screen doesn't go back that far". Wish I could post a pic but no digicam to do so. The ball stud looks a bit like a chess pawn with the oval end piece which goes into the clutch Z-bar having a flat side on both sides to wrench it into the block. The shaft is round with a ridge running around it about 1/8 th inch from ball end. Base of shaft is approx. 15/16 " in diameter, total length about 2 1/16" . If this makes sense to anyone, can some one tell me what I need to ask for as a replacement? Engine is not original '71 350 V-8 but later as in early to mid 80's I think, it has the EGR pad on intake to right of carb. Is this ball stud peculiar to a 4x4 set-up or will any correct length stud work? Any replies/ information is much appreciated.
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Old 02-04-2003, 07:59 PM   #2
jmanz69
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I have 2, you can have one for shipping plus $2. I can get a pic if you want to make sure it's the right one.

Let me know

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Old 02-04-2003, 08:11 PM   #3
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here is a pic.
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Old 02-04-2003, 08:37 PM   #4
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Thanks for the pic but the one I have is differant from that and does not fasten to a flat bar. It is threaded directly into the block and the clutch pivot, which is round and has two flat bars welded to it at opposite ends, slides over onto the stud and then the tube fits into a elongated slot mounted to an angle riveted to the frame at the opposite from the ball stud. Does that make any sense? Damn, I've got to get a digital camera. Again, thanks for the assist. Still,
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Old 02-04-2003, 08:40 PM   #5
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Do you mean the z-bar. The part the linkage all connects to? I have a couple of those too.
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Old 02-04-2003, 09:04 PM   #6
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here is the rest of what I have extra.
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Old 02-04-2003, 09:13 PM   #7
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My Z-bar looks like the one at the lower right of the picture. Last time I looked at it real close it seemed to be a galvanized tube. The ball stud you have pictured is differant from the one I removed. Would the design make a differance in my truck being a 4x4? Not sure on that as the last time I broke a ball stud was 20 some years ago on a 65 Impala SS with a factory 4-speed Muncie. Thanks for your help.
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Tilt, Tach, Towhooks
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Old 02-04-2003, 09:15 PM   #8
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Just realized that I did not say that it is the ball stud that I am in need of. My z-bar is fine.
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Tilt, Tach, Towhooks
Original Truck AM/FM
Wellington, Ks
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Old 02-04-2003, 09:22 PM   #9
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Well, it might work. How long is your original ballstud? We'll see if it will work. If it does you can have it for the cost of shipping.
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Old 02-04-2003, 09:27 PM   #10
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Call Steve at Pickups Northwest 360-568-9166. Should have it in stock Part number is CP-1700. Description is 1969-1972 Ball for Z-Bar, Engine Side, 4X4 and Blazer. Price is $29.95.
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Old 02-04-2003, 09:35 PM   #11
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Total length of the stud is 2 1/16" from threaded base (with the threaded portion still in the block) to end of the ball head.

cped, Thanks for the info, I will give them a call tomorrow from work and hope that I can describe well enough to make myself understood.
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Tilt, Tach, Towhooks
Original Truck AM/FM
Wellington, Ks
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Old 02-04-2003, 09:39 PM   #12
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mine is 1 3/4 from the base. Sorry
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Old 02-04-2003, 09:49 PM   #13
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jman, Thanks for the help and your assistance even though parts did not match. I'm finding out a few things on this truck have to be for a 4x4? Such as the front bumper outer brackets. Had a hell of a time finding a set of those!. Thank goodness for the internet world. It does have it's saving graces sometimes.

cped, will give Steve a call tomorrow. Thanks.
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Tilt, Tach, Towhooks
Original Truck AM/FM
Wellington, Ks
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Old 02-04-2003, 10:14 PM   #14
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ironhorse I know your pain.
2 years ago I broke the engine side ball stud on my 4x4.
100 miles from my house.
Pulling my boat.

The worst part was I was just cresting the bridge leaving MN to come home through Wisconsin when it broke. I pulled it out of gear and coasted down the bridge landing in Wisconsin. I called AAA and they had to refer me to Wis. AAA. I said I could pee on MN but no they had to go to Wis. AAA. After three call drops, while talking to a lady who said they had to tow me 10 miles to the next town in Wisconsin, when I could pee on Red Wing, MN, I explained to them that thank you I'm cancelling AAA it was nice doing business with you.

I finally got towed 100 yards back into MN.

To make a long story even longer the shop in Red Wing went through 3 parts before they found one that fit. I just looked through my folder and couldn't find the invoice...
It must still be in the truck. Maybe there is a part number on it.

If it wasn't dark and cold I'd snap a digital shot of the ballstud/Z-bar. I converted to auto a year ago but left the clutch pedal/Z-bar in there.

OK I had to check. The invoice from that repair isn't in the glovebox. If jmanz69 can't help you I'll try to snap a picture and get a part number tomorrow.
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Old 02-04-2003, 11:44 PM   #15
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Hey Gary! Are you setting up a spot at the Wichita Swap Meet? You might let everyone know where you will be (if you know yet).
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Old 02-04-2003, 11:59 PM   #16
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i still havent found one!!!! its not the best idea in the world, but if you need your truck it will work (believe me, mines still like this)

take a carraige bolt about 3 inches long, grind down the head untill it fits inside the Z-bar, then you can bolt it into the block (use the square part under the round head to put your wrench on) then just slip the z-bar on there like it was a normal ball stud
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Old 02-05-2003, 01:01 AM   #17
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Hey ironhorse, I also broke mine and was really in a bad spot when it happened...had to drive about 15 miles to get home while shifting with no clutch (I was hitting the synchronizers pretty good) and if I had to stop, I'd start the truck in gear to get going again. Anyway...I found a replacement at the local chevrolet dealership, just convince them that it exists. LMC also sells one for about $30, it's called a "Ball Stud-Engine" To get the broken portion out of the block, use a hammer and punch, while turning it, it shouldn't be in there too tight....Good luck!
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Old 02-05-2003, 02:14 AM   #18
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Ironhorse - If you haven't found one yet call Jeff at Bowtie Bits in Wichita. http://www.bowtiebits.com/ If you're going to the swapmeet in Wichita this weekend he could probably have it there for you and save you some shipping, too.
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Old 02-07-2003, 12:00 AM   #19
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Thanks for all the input guys. Got the ball stud situation taken care of. Tried another Chevrolet dealer in Wichita with a parts guy who is a gearhead. (Not a lot of those left apparently) Told him what I needed, he made some calls, hit the dealer internet and located the part withing an hour! Have it in my hot, grubby little hand ready to be installed. PN #6261872 Lists at $27.28, came from St. Louis, Mo on the afternoon parts run. Truck will have to wait a couple days with the swap meet going on but at least I have the part I need. I also ordered another one just to have in the tool box. That should insure that I will never break another one since I already will have a replacement. LOL
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1971 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 LWB 350 V-8
Was sm465-now 350TH/np205
Tilt, Tach, Towhooks
Original Truck AM/FM
Wellington, Ks
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Old 02-07-2003, 08:57 AM   #20
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I'm like you ironhorse. When something breaks I buy two and have the other one with me. Then I know it won't happen again.

Last summer towing my boat my 2 month old rubber hose to my 2 month old transmission cooler burst. I bought enough hose and tranny fluid to do the job twice. You know that won't happen again.

The only reason I didn't buy a 2nd ball stud is because I had the auto tranny for my swap already in the garage and I figured that if the first one lasted 30 years I had a reasonable chance at it not breaking again in the next couple of months.
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Old 02-07-2003, 03:24 PM   #21
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Thanks for listing the part number.
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Old 02-08-2003, 07:25 PM   #22
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You guys must be luckier than me.The last one I broke was on a truck with idiot lights.The bulb was out on the oil pressure one.By the time it started ticking the engine was shot.The end of the Z-bar bent the oil filter enough that it lost it's oil and mains.I later swapped in a latr model engine with no hole in the mounting boss and wound up building a mount on a strap like the one pictured.It still worked the last time I tore that truck down.
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