Split Windshield Cab on S10 Frame Question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Dan Bowles · 04-02-2010, 01:53 PM

For those that don't know, my first S10 swap was a '54. There are a few guys that give me grief about splitters vs. smoothies so its all in jest. It started on the HAMB and followed me here thanks to jokes about smooth poodles and fine detective work!

Now, the PoP (Pile o Parts) truck is underway. 1947/8 cab, 1951 VIN, 52 doors, 47-53 bed and nose, short box S10 frame. 283/th350. Looking to pick up a 4x4 rear from Detroit CL soon. These are all "spare parts" that I've accumulated over the last year or so when I've bought other piles. I even have a gauge or two, of course they don't MATCH and I'm also looking to put in a '57 Chevy Bel Air steering wheel on a stock column joined to the S10 box.

***My question is, how did you Splitters do your nose? Do you use the lower air dam piece of the grill? If yes, did you notch said air dam for the S10 frame? How did you mount it? How high are you off the frame with your cab when you did this stuff (it makes a huge difference)?***

I'm looking at about 4" off the frame with mine. Pictures will come later with a build thread.

Dan Bowles · 04-02-2010, 01:54 PM

Here is the HAMB thread on my son's '54. Runs and titled. Now to get it wrapped up for insurance and plating purposes!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=137385

Dan Bowles · 04-02-2010, 01:58 PM

And one more question: Rear cab mounts for the "old style" truck cabs with the center mount. I'm thinking of just running a 1 x 2" square tube or angle iron under the back and running the shackles like I did on the '54.

I've seen a few run rear cab mounts made shorter than the ones all over the net but its JUST sheet metal for the floor. How do you reinforce it and keep it from flexing? My seat riser is already gone so I've got a VERY flat surface to work with.

63 & 64 Bowties · 04-02-2010, 04:18 PM

Dan, I'm sorry I don't have the answers for you since I'm just getting started on my 53/S-10.
But one question for you.... why 4" off the frame? I think I'm gonna be mounting mine 1.75" off the frame. I haven't seen a good answer as to why this can't be done except for losing all your bed space and interference with the S-10 gas tank. (One plus for me, I have the small (10 gal?) gas tank since it was a 2.8/4 speed truck.) And, I have to build a trans tunnel anyway since I'm using a TBI 350 with 4L80E trans. Plus the floors are pretty much gone anyway from the seat riser forward. Any thoughts?

jeffs51chevy · 04-02-2010, 06:34 PM

Man, where to start? As for the rear cab mounts, I think you would be fine running square tube and shackles. You could always get ideas from the ez chasis guy, I believe his system spans the rear mount for the early cabs. As for the air dam, I notched mine and will build mounting tabs that go back up to the core support - keeping it stock-ish. I think 4 inches is about as low as you can get without kicking the rad out front. My mounts are arount 3 3/4with 1 inch for the stock s10 bushing. I believe it squats a little more, but not much. You also need to be aware of the scrub line. If you have a flat tire, you don't want to tear up your fenders - best case. That's all I can help with. Let the others chime in.

Jeff

Dan Bowles · 04-02-2010, 07:35 PM

Why the 4" is simple, when I built the mounts for my son's '54 with no tunnel and a 327/NV3500, I made 2 sets! What I don't have is 2 S10 body mounts, only 1! So I figured I could go a bit lower, keep my really nice floors, and not notch anything while still using the front mount I have.

Court's '54 truck is 5" off the frame and his front fender is 7", rear 9". If I were to put the cab at 2" I'd be at 4" and 6" and Michigan has deeper holes than that! Plus, I've already got a set of 2" dropped spindles I can use if I choose. I also don't want the frame rails coming out half way up the grill. I want to put a stock bumper on it.

2ndGenRR has the EZ mount and I did look at it but didn't like it. Too complicated! I found a guy on Killbillet (62ChevyII) that has done his '48 with welding plate steel to the underside and mounting the upright he built. I figure the same with the shackles.

Dan Bowles · 04-02-2010, 07:36 PM

Oh, and I haven't decided on the gas tank yet, we've got a S10 blazer in Court's 54 under the bed and I've got another one here, just need to get the mounts from my friendly neighborhood Chevy Truck Junkyard (doesn't EVERYONE have one?!)

63 & 64 Bowties · 04-02-2010, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Bowles

I found a guy on Killbillet (62ChevyII) that has done his '48 with welding plate steel to the underside and mounting the upright he built.

Did you know that 62ChevyII's truck is for sale?
http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13452
That's actually the truck where I got the idea from about mounting it closer to the frame. In the Killbillet forum someone asked him for measurements but in the pics, it sure looks close to the frame to me. The answer he gave was a little confusing.

BlueJeep · 04-02-2010, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

Did you know that 62ChevyII's truck is for sale?
http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13452
That's actually the truck where I got the idea from about mounting it closer to the frame. In the Killbillet forum someone asked him for measurements but in the pics, it sure looks close to the frame to me. The answer he gave was a little confusing.

That was me asking him how far off the frame he was. We determined he was about 3" off the frame...a little lower than mine. He said in hind sight, he would have left it a little higher so he could use the s10 gas tank.

Dan, look at my build thread. Mine is 3.5" off the frame front and rear, actually between the floor support structure and the frame. My front splash pan thing is notched around the frame and the steering box, and my bumper mounts should end up just at the bottom side of the frame.

Dan Bowles · 04-02-2010, 10:04 PM

Thanks, BlueJeep. I see you posted on KB asking questions. He's updated his thread recently over there and it looks like he's SOLD his truck but the buyer wants some more fab work done before he takes possession.

Our '54 is measure from the frame to the bottom of the support brace, I'm pretty sure. I'll stick a tape through the battery box hole tomorrow in the daylight and figure it out better.

We did get the door hinges captured nuts chased and new bolts bought at the hardware store. I have to change the striker plates so they close but that won't take too long. Taxes in the morning then up to MSU area to pick up sheep so who knows if I'll get anything done on it tomorrow!

04-02-2010, 01:53 PM	#1
Dan Bowles AD Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Blissfield, MI Posts: 822	Split Windshield Cab on S10 Frame Question For those that don't know, my first S10 swap was a '54. There are a few guys that give me grief about splitters vs. smoothies so its all in jest. It started on the HAMB and followed me here thanks to jokes about smooth poodles and fine detective work! Now, the PoP (Pile o Parts) truck is underway. 1947/8 cab, 1951 VIN, 52 doors, 47-53 bed and nose, short box S10 frame. 283/th350. Looking to pick up a 4x4 rear from Detroit CL soon. These are all "spare parts" that I've accumulated over the last year or so when I've bought other piles. I even have a gauge or two, of course they don't MATCH and I'm also looking to put in a '57 Chevy Bel Air steering wheel on a stock column joined to the S10 box. *My question is, how did you Splitters do your nose? Do you use the lower air dam piece of the grill? If yes, did you notch said air dam for the S10 frame? How did you mount it? How high are you off the frame with your cab when you did this stuff (it makes a huge difference)?* I'm looking at about 4" off the frame with mine. Pictures will come later with a build thread.

04-02-2010, 01:54 PM	#2
Dan Bowles AD Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Blissfield, MI Posts: 822	Re: Split Windshield Cab on S10 Frame Question Here is the HAMB thread on my son's '54. Runs and titled. Now to get it wrapped up for insurance and plating purposes! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=137385

04-02-2010, 01:58 PM	#3
Dan Bowles AD Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Blissfield, MI Posts: 822	Re: Split Windshield Cab on S10 Frame Question And one more question: Rear cab mounts for the "old style" truck cabs with the center mount. I'm thinking of just running a 1 x 2" square tube or angle iron under the back and running the shackles like I did on the '54. I've seen a few run rear cab mounts made shorter than the ones all over the net but its JUST sheet metal for the floor. How do you reinforce it and keep it from flexing? My seat riser is already gone so I've got a VERY flat surface to work with.

04-02-2010, 04:18 PM	#4
63 & 64 Bowties and a few others Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Blue Ridge Mountains of VA Posts: 5,638	Re: Split Windshield Cab on S10 Frame Question Dan, I'm sorry I don't have the answers for you since I'm just getting started on my 53/S-10. But one question for you.... why 4" off the frame? I think I'm gonna be mounting mine 1.75" off the frame. I haven't seen a good answer as to why this can't be done except for losing all your bed space and interference with the S-10 gas tank. (One plus for me, I have the small (10 gal?) gas tank since it was a 2.8/4 speed truck.) And, I have to build a trans tunnel anyway since I'm using a TBI 350 with 4L80E trans. Plus the floors are pretty much gone anyway from the seat riser forward. Any thoughts? __________________ Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry BlueRidgeMuscleCars.com “The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated” Gandhi

04-02-2010, 06:34 PM	#5
jeffs51chevy Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: caldwell, idaho Posts: 132	Re: Split Windshield Cab on S10 Frame Question Man, where to start? As for the rear cab mounts, I think you would be fine running square tube and shackles. You could always get ideas from the ez chasis guy, I believe his system spans the rear mount for the early cabs. As for the air dam, I notched mine and will build mounting tabs that go back up to the core support - keeping it stock-ish. I think 4 inches is about as low as you can get without kicking the rad out front. My mounts are arount 3 3/4with 1 inch for the stock s10 bushing. I believe it squats a little more, but not much. You also need to be aware of the scrub line. If you have a flat tire, you don't want to tear up your fenders - best case. That's all I can help with. Let the others chime in. Jeff

04-02-2010, 07:35 PM	#6
Dan Bowles AD Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Blissfield, MI Posts: 822	Re: Split Windshield Cab on S10 Frame Question Why the 4" is simple, when I built the mounts for my son's '54 with no tunnel and a 327/NV3500, I made 2 sets! What I don't have is 2 S10 body mounts, only 1! So I figured I could go a bit lower, keep my really nice floors, and not notch anything while still using the front mount I have. Court's '54 truck is 5" off the frame and his front fender is 7", rear 9". If I were to put the cab at 2" I'd be at 4" and 6" and Michigan has deeper holes than that! Plus, I've already got a set of 2" dropped spindles I can use if I choose. I also don't want the frame rails coming out half way up the grill. I want to put a stock bumper on it. 2ndGenRR has the EZ mount and I did look at it but didn't like it. Too complicated! I found a guy on Killbillet (62ChevyII) that has done his '48 with welding plate steel to the underside and mounting the upright he built. I figure the same with the shackles.

04-02-2010, 07:36 PM	#7
Dan Bowles AD Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Blissfield, MI Posts: 822	Re: Split Windshield Cab on S10 Frame Question Oh, and I haven't decided on the gas tank yet, we've got a S10 blazer in Court's 54 under the bed and I've got another one here, just need to get the mounts from my friendly neighborhood Chevy Truck Junkyard (doesn't EVERYONE have one?!)

04-02-2010, 10:04 PM	#10
Dan Bowles AD Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Blissfield, MI Posts: 822	Re: Split Windshield Cab on S10 Frame Question Thanks, BlueJeep. I see you posted on KB asking questions. He's updated his thread recently over there and it looks like he's SOLD his truck but the buyer wants some more fab work done before he takes possession. Our '54 is measure from the frame to the bottom of the support brace, I'm pretty sure. I'll stick a tape through the battery box hole tomorrow in the daylight and figure it out better. We did get the door hinges captured nuts chased and new bolts bought at the hardware store. I have to change the striker plates so they close but that won't take too long. Taxes in the morning then up to MSU area to pick up sheep so who knows if I'll get anything done on it tomorrow!



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