Mildly Build 305 or Switch to other SBC

[culp7]

Alright as i'm sure some of you have read, I resently have picked up a 305 small block for $40. Being on a highschool students budget, I was wondering if ya'll think if its okay to just do a mild build on the 305 (cam, headers, intake, carb, mabey heads) or to just wait and save up for a 350?

[67vetteal]

Put the word out that you need a 350. In the big picture you'll be better off. Al W.

[drewdude92]

350 for sure

[big_al_71]

Save your money and go with anything from a 350 and up.

[C20-67_N_MO]

Agreed.

Save your money and watch Craigs List for a 350.

[GASoline71]

Save for the 350... you'll thank us later.

Gary

[GruntMoanCough]

Not to disagree with the others. But, I once blew up my 350 and was desperate for an engine, friend gave me a 305.
I used my headers, intake and bought a Comp cam (268H, I think). It went good enough that nobody believed it was a 305. You could always use the parts for another small block, mind you the cam didn't work as well in the 350 I got later.

[red69ss]

you can find a good running 350 for less than $500 around here, that would be my choice. I rebuilt a 305 twenty years ago and I'm still regretting that decision.

[Security guy]

I've always thought it was more expensive to rebuild a 305 than it was a 350. The 350's are just more common and pistons, etc are cheaper. I find them in the local paper for $200 or cheaper if you wait for it. I did have a friend that was running a 305 and could not blow it up (he tried). They are good running engines, but not worth it if it needs rebuilding.

[capev86]

back in the 80's my dad had a 72 burb and he replaced the tired 350 with a 305 out of a 77 monte carlo. he swapped over the stock q-jet and ram horns and added HEI, a cheap dual exhaust, camaro oil pump and RV grind camshaft. the truck was a 1/2 ton 2wd with auto and 3.73 rear. he put 3/4 ton coil springs on the back and used the truck to tow our '71 holiday camper (6,000 pounds, 23 foot) for several years with no issues. in retrospect it pulled better than his 87 burb 2wd with 350tbi before the swap from the 3.08 to 3.73 rear gears. my opinion is they just got a bad rap like q-jets and 700r4's and word spread rather than people figure out for themselves. i'd take a 305 any day just to be different!

the 305 has the same 3-1/2" stroke crank as the 350 (unlike the lame 3-1/4" stroke 307 in my 72 burb 3/4 ton). the small pistons means less air into the engine than with a 350 so it doesn't do as good in the horsepower department (and less torque) but the flip side is you get engine that could fill in for a 350 in a pinch and offered better economy (reason why you find HO versions in many late 70's to early 90's camaros, etc.

a 305 will never outshine a 350 with the same setup, but it can be built up to be a great dual purpose engine. if you have it apart, maybe make a stroker out of it and make the most of those tiny pistons. you can do a lot with a little if you have a long enough lever. i would love to put a 400 crank (3-3/4" stroke) in a 305, port/polish the top end for better airflow, run a late 80's tbi intake mated to the larger 454 tb unit and a full roller RV grind valvetrain. be interesting to see the torque numbers on such a setup and even the hp numbers would be respectable. run 3.73 or 4.10 gears in the back (with a good OD trans for the highway) and have some fun!

[68GMCCustom]

don't throw good money after bad building a 305...put your money in a 350. You can get a 260hp one for less then $2k from GM, closer to $2k for a 290hp, or go for some big small block HP and get a 400hp 350 from Year One for like $2989.

Part # Description Price Add to Cart
CT350PC1 Year One Power Crate 400hp 350 crate engine assembly. $2989.00
Engine Specifications:
* Horsepower: 400+
* Torque: 400+ ft/lbs
* Compression ratio: 9.5:1
* Dyno-tested: Yes, includes balancer and 14" flexplate
* Dyno sheet: Included with engine's output
* Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
* Recommended fuel: 92 octane
* Max recommended RPM- 6000
* Block: Seasoned 4-bolt iron
* Crankshaft: Nodular iron
* Pistons: Hypereutectic
* Connecting rods: Powdered metal
* Camshaft- Hydraulic roller
* Valve lift:.520"
* Duration @ .050" (int/exh): 218deg/228deg
* Rocker arms: Stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio
* Cylinder heads: Ported Vortec
* Valves: Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
* Valve springs: Heavy duty
* Bore x Stroke: 4.030" x 3.48"
* Intake manifold: Dual-plane aluminum
* Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers included
* Engine fasteners: High tensile strength
* Warranty: 12 mth/12,000 mi

[capev86]

well...you can do that. but i don't like to run with the pack and be just another guy running a 350. i'm putting a 406sbc in my 72 burb 'cause i have it, otherwise i'd yank the 307 and make a 354 out of it with a 400 crank. i just hear the numbers 350 and think....the next most boring thing after a 265, 283 and even the 327 screamer. if you have an engine, make the most of it and be a first!

[crm318]

Culp7, choosing an engine size because its rare doenst mean your making the right choice. The reason there are so many 350s is because the 4.00X3.48 combination is great for just about all applications (short of a BB). I think If you go with the 305, youll have it in there longer than you want. I have owned a 305 and it couldnt get out of its own way, but like all chevy products, it was reliable as hell. I think the process of earning and saving up for the 350 would be a great and useful experience for you.

[culp7]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

don't throw good money after bad building a 305...put your money in a 350. You can get a 260hp one for less then $2k from GM, closer to $2k for a 290hp, or go for some big small block HP and get a 400hp 350 from Year One for like $2989.

man i'd love to have that year one 350, but lets all remember, i am on a highschool budget and any new SBC from gm will simply be out of my price range!

[capev86]

I have owned a 305 and it couldnt get out of its own way

funny....i could say that about a stock 350 (my dad has had 3 trucks with them). my dad bought a bad boy 406sbc because an 87 octane friendly 350 wouldn't cut it towing our 6,000 pound camper when we made a trip out to yellowstone and back in '96. he would have gone with a 383 if he hadn't found that recently redone 400. the longer the crankshaft, the better the performance without sacrificing fuel economy which is why so many people are going with the 383 these days.

the 305 really isn't that far behind the 350 because it has the same bottom end. a stock quadra jet and an rv grind cam will make the most of what the 305 can do....which is at lower rpms where you need it most in a street driven truck anyway. i say do a quick rebuild now and just run it......you have the engine already. if you aren't planning on winning drag races, the 305 will do everything you need it to do just fine, especially if you do those couple cheap mods that my dad did to his 305 on a tight budget. if you can score a cheap 400 crank and stroke it while you have it apart...even better, but don't worry if you can't it is a great motor that just doesn't get the respect it deserves. its better than a 327 for a truck and bigger than most of the engines that came in our trucks...and also newer!

[292farmer]

i had a 305 in my 77 impala and loved it, i had headers, hei, weiand intake, q-jet, and a lunati cam.(mild one) but if your looking for a lot of hp a 350 or bigger is better, if u want to get a little performance till u find another motor put some headers intake and carb, and hei on it these u can use on what ever other motor u find. if your looking for a decent reliable motor with a little performance then the 305 might work, try a set of used headers and upgrade4 intake and carb try it out, u want more find a 350 and swap the parts. good luck!

[ramey]

switch

[capev86]

on a budget, don't worry about the headers. those ram horns will flow plenty well. i plan to keep them when i put that 406 in my 72 burb. get a dual exhaust on there though. i bought an edelbrock performer intake (idle-5500rpm range) for the 307 in my truck to go to a q-jet in place of the lame rochester 2bbl. and those parts will swap over. i am going to get the magnaflow x-pipe exhuast from lmc truck for my burb when i'm done spending money on other things. the exhaust is in decent shape right now. i want to do all my external improvements and see how things go before i put that big motor in there. the nice thing about the q-jet is the small primaries provide awesome throttle response, economy, etc over a flashy holley carb or 2 barrel that has bigger bores. it has plenty of air flow to handle even that 406. the 305 needs efficiency of flow, not volume of flow, especially at low rpms when it isn't mvoing any air.

[C-10 simplex]

Just my opinion, which is very unpopular:

NO WAY! On a highschool budget(translation=NO budget), stick with the 305.

1) What are your goals for this engine?
a) Again, keeping in mind speed costs money and you don't have any; Yes, i was in highschool once and yes i didn't have much money then.

2) Keep in mind that it was a 305 that powered the monte carlo SS's to mid 15 sec 1/4 mile times all day. Yes, i've owned one, and the monte carlo is not exactly a light car. Can you guarantee me that any 350 you buy will equal or surpass that time? And if it does surpass it, will it surpass it by that much? i doubt it, at least in initial, stock form.

3) What is the fascination with speed and power when there is not a budget to support it? What is wrong with a car that runs good, works good, and is easy to fix? i say, get the basics down first. Speed is just an enhancement of the basics.
Yes, i have a 305 in the truck right now. This particular 305 is much slower than the 350 that was in there, but i'm not trying to go fast. It runs well and that's what i want right now.

i mean it all boils down to how fast you want to go+your goals+your budget. That fact that you picked up a 305 for $40 means to me-----you're not exactly sure or particular on exactly how fast you want to go and not nessesarily particular on your overall goals.


P.S. once again nobody has a problem with a 283, but a 305 with 22 more cubes, everyone hates. i don't get it?

[C-10 simplex]

P.S. And furthermore, you're on a tiny budget as is and you're asking about moving up in cubic inches? Come on!?! Gas is $2.79 the cheapest around here.


One of my new fascinations is human psychology so,:

1) What if your friends weren't really into cars? Then, would you give a crap about how fast you could go? At least for now when money is tight?


2) Are you trying to impress anyone? There are other ways to do this. Besides, again, i think most people would be impressed by a car that actually runs and is dependable first and foremost.

3) Do you just want to race people? Which is not the smartest thing to do on the street. If you must go fast, there are relatively cheap and fast ways to do this(albeit not very practical ways) such as nitrous. Or install a 4.56 gear in the rear diff. With the 4.56 you won't be able to much besides go fast from stoplight to stoplight. Also gas mileage will suffer tremendously. On the other hand, since you won't be able do anything else except accelerate from 0-60 fantastically and can't really drive long distances, you won't be driving all that much anyways and therefore won't be using that much gas anyways.

4) Actually here is one of my new philosophies in life: Get a girlfriend/relationship first, then get a car.


NOTE: these are just my opinions. Some are strong, some may dismissed by others as horse product, but they are my opinions based on previous experiences (similar to your own), my fascination with numbers---as pertaining to cars. And my newfound fascination with human psychology.

So, in other words don't nessesarily take my word as law. But at least consider them.

[68GMCCustom]

...that's right...H.S. budget...then maybe you should go the cheapest route.
Why? 'cause the odds say you'll wind up trading or selling it for something else within the next few years.

[KFreddy]

Do you know the year or the RPO (code) of the 305ci that you have?

The bad wrap with most any 305 comes from the sub par heads, specifically the valves, they were complete junk and even well maintained were done by 100,000 miles. Realistically how many 305 F-body or G-body cars from the late 70's to the late 80's do you ever see on the road? Or any 80's car for that matter... Keep in mind that the 305 was GM's ultimate cheapo V-8 smog motor, greatly contributing 25 years later to GM bankruptcy.

Aside from that; there is no reason that a 305 or any other GM engine cannot make at least one hp per ci with a stock bottom end. With out going nutz and breaking the bank and with a bit of planning and research you could have a fun reliable engine with a 305. First up would be a set of budget iron vortech heads. Then just build the top of the motor as you would any other V8 and you will be happy. You might just be very happy, you don't see people complaining about their Z28 with a 302 do you? Small cubic inch it also may be but they are legendary "screamers."

Ideally a moderately build 350 or a crate motor is the way to go and I think at the end of a year or two you will spend as much or more on that 305 then you will on a 350 rebuild or a crate engine, however sometimes you gotta go with what you got. There are plenty of good parts out there to get that 305 where you want it, start the build and a thread and call it "Project Underdog."

Damn the Torpedoes, prove 'em all wrong....

[culp7]

which moters can i pull vortech heads off and have em run on my 305?

[57larry]

I built and used both 305"s & 350's. parts cost the same for a 350 as a 305. build a 350

[culp7]

anyone know bout the vortech heads?