Newbe with a couple of questions..

[summerzee]

I have a 69 C-10 that I inherited from my father-in-law. Just changed the front brakes to disc using spindles & rotors from a 78. Brand new Moog ball joints, bearings etc... Now it pulls hard right driving down the road. My alignment guy said the one of the front ball joints might be bound. Now this this morning, I looked out the kitchen window & noticed that the dust cover is missing off the right front hub. Is it possible that I have the bearing to tight & that would make the truck pull hard right?

BTW,.. when I brake it pulls straight.

Also, now that I have switched to disc in front, the front is actually about 6 inches wider than the rear, center tire to center tire. I have located two 78's with their rear differentials intact, one from a pickup & the other from a Suburban. Both have the 12 bolt pattern & large 12" drums that I desire.

My question is, is there a way to identify the gear ratio without opening them up & counting teeth? My dilemma is that on the 78 pickup, I know the history & it has only 100K miles on it, but on the other hand I'm thinking the Suburban, being a Suburban, will have the lower ratio that I want.

One last question. Will my U joint bolt up to either of these rear-ends, or will have to have it altered?

Any info will be helpful.... thanks

[Shyguy]

Some very good questions unfortunately I don't have any answers, hopefully some one else will chime in.

Have you switched the front tires to see if it makes a difference on the pulling to one side?

Danny

[basemodel67]

I think you may have a problem with your prop valve. Did you swap the old drum/drum one out? The original one will keep pressure on I think. Also, your truck should be coil springs in the rear... the '78 rear won't just bolt in if it is.

[summerzee]

yea, brand new master cylinder & prop valve from early classic, suppose to the one engineered for the job. Brand new everything cept the spindle, hub & rotor.

Yes I will have to grind & weld on the new axle... looks like Early classic has some products to make it a bit easier... 30 minute drive for me. Will my 69 u-joint bolt up to a 78 axle nice & clean?

[Pickupmanx2]

Howdo, a ball joint isn't going to cause a "pull" unless the alignment is off, which after replacing them,,,, an alignment should be in order, if the dust cap is missing, could be the bearing was to tight, got hot and was pulling,,,, how did you tighten the nut? I usually go snug while it is spinning, go 1/4 turn more while spinning it(pre-load), then back off to align the hole for the kotter pin,,, did that in the Marine Corps for all the trucks and on my own, never had any problems yet!

[DZL1]

Did you change the front brake lines as well? Same thing happened to me after i did a brake job. Turns out that the brake lines collapse when they get old. Do a search on this site about brake lines. Hope this helps.

DZL1.

[Longhorn Man]

it sounds like the right brake is not letting go. Could be a bad hose, or caliper.
Since it stops straight instead of still pulling, that says its the brakes, and nothing else. Jack up the right front and spin the tire by hand. I bet a dollar you can't... or at least not easily.

[Pickupmanx2]

Originally Posted by DZL1

Did you change the front brake lines as well? Same thing happened to me after i did a brake job. Turns out that the brake lines collapse when they get old. Do a search on this site about brake lines. Hope this helps.

DZL1.

Yup, forgot about that one! Good call...

[summerzee]

Hose lines are new...& didn't seem to have any restrictions when bleeding, jacket up the front & both tires spun freely, same as the back tires... front end has been aligned... bearing play seemed a little to loose,.... so I don't know..

Looks like Sat I will un-thread & re-torqe the ball joints... If that doesn't work.... I will be stumped...