Cab Swap Question

[67chevylongbed]

I searched this question but I couldn't fine the answer I was looking for, maybe I just missed it. I am going to be swapping cabs, and I wanted to ask what do I have to disconnect to get the cab off, mechanical and electrical?

[skoffice]

There's the main electrical bulkhead on the firewall, then there's the tail light section (4 wire connector) in the lower middle of the firewall, any ground straps to the engine. I think that's it for electrical. Then you can unbolt your booster from the firewall, or just pull off the master cylinder depending if you have power brakes. If you can leave the lines hooked up then that saves you time from bleeding the brakes. Of course remove the fenders, inner fenders, and hood. Remove the steering wheel and loosen the nut under the wheel, then unbolt the shaft from the steering box/rag joint. Disconnect the transmission linkage (if auto). Loosen the steering column bolts under the dash and the clamp on the firewall. The steering shaft should slide out and make sure to keep track of the lower bearing that comes out on the shaft. There will also be one at the top of the shaft but it should stay seated in the column. Disconnect the throttle cable from the engine. The parking brake should be relatively easy, I think it's just a cotter pin on the inside near the pedal/lever and a bolt that keeps the cable in place. It should then just pull through the firewall. I think just the 4 cab mount bolts underneath 2 front and 2 rear and you're done. Did I forget anything??? Oh heater/AC hoses.

[Shyguy]

Originally Posted by skoffice

There's the main electrical bulkhead on the firewall, then there's the tail light section (4 wire connector) in the lower middle of the firewall, any ground straps to the engine. I think that's it for electrical. Then you can unbolt your booster from the firewall, or just pull off the master cylinder depending if you have power brakes. If you can leave the lines hooked up then that saves you time from bleeding the brakes. Of course remove the fenders, inner fenders, and hood. Remove the steering wheel and loosen the nut under the wheel, then unbolt the shaft from the steering box/rag joint. Disconnect the transmission linkage (if auto). Loosen the steering column bolts under the dash and the clamp on the firewall. The steering shaft should slide out and make sure to keep track of the lower bearing that comes out on the shaft. There will also be one at the top of the shaft but it should stay seated in the column. Disconnect the throttle cable from the engine. The parking brake should be relatively easy, I think it's just a cotter pin on the inside near the pedal/lever and a bolt that keeps the cable in place. It should then just pull through the firewall. I think just the 4 cab mount bolts underneath 2 front and 2 rear and you're done. Did I forget anything??? Oh heater/AC hoses.

Boy! It sure sounds like you have had experience at doing a cab swap. Great write up.

If it is a stick shift don't forget the clutch and shifter linkage. Also I think you may have forgot to mention the speedo cable and windshield washer hose.

The ones I have done always had extra wires just ran through the firewall, so if you have any don't forget them.

Danny

[67chevylongbed]

Awesome thanks for the replies guys. That main bunch of wires, is that a plug? It looks like it just unplugs if not how do i get that off the firewall? Thanks again.

[Shyguy]

There is bolt in the center of the plug on the firewall. Remove the bolt and then you should be able to unplug the bundle of wires as a unit. It may take a little wiggling and maybe a gentle leverage with a screw driver.

Danny