Is my track arm stud bent (from wreck)

[oldblue1968chevy]

Is this track arm bar bent? If so can (should I?) Bend it back? Thanks!

(this from where I got hit in Rear drivers side, trailing arm split put pressure on track arm, thus broke the track arm and maybe bent this piece..

Is it bent and if so should (can) I straighten it?

[Tx Firefighter]

Looks straight to me. Even if it is bent, it's not much, so the bushings will flex enough to overcome it.

[oldblue1968chevy]

looks a little bent to me but maybe i need better pics....so ya think its ok to run it like that? sweet! thanks!!!!!

[Tx Firefighter]

Third picture looks like it's very straight to me. Lay a straightedge on top of the stud to sight it down it's length if you're worried.

[Leviticus]

does your track bar still line up with the frame side mount? As long as there are no cracks in the stud, and it is not sending the bar out of line with the frame mount you should be good.

Is it binding at all when the bar pivots on it?

And I agree with TX, it looks fine to me as well.

[bigguy69]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Looks straight to me. Even if it is bent, it's not much, so the bushings will flex enough to overcome it.

i agree. looks fine to me.

[VA72C10]

I guess I wasn't thinking the stud itself but the mount. THe stud looks straight...I know the mount is already bent but it looks like a sharper angle than mine is...

[Tx Firefighter]

That center section is cast iron. It won't bend even a little, it would break. The stud could bend and not break, but it looks straight to me.

[oldblue1968chevy]

LOL yeah I meant what the stud mountd to!!!!!

I was getting excited I thought it was good and straight and my imagination that the first time I had it apart it was striaght! Im going loony now...

Soooo,is it good enough to not worry about? should I try to straighten it..if so how? Or do I need to junk the rearend...$$$$$
thanks as always! If it wasnt for you guys id be driving a civic and my truck would be waiting for scrap metal to go up because it would drive down the road hopping and pulling to 1 side all the time.

[VA72C10]

I forgot about that TX>...so of course it's straight then since it would crack...not bend. So you should be good to go. Like I said before in your other thread I'd recommend the ECE super trac bar anyways if you're ever planning to go 5-6" drop or lower...

[oldblue1968chevy]

I cheaped out, and kinda like the look of 'factory' stance..ima put a 2" block back there since I have to get new U bolts anyway. I'll probably chop the front springs X amount of coils to = a 2 inch front drop.. (how many coils would that be)?

So you guys think the rearend is good to go? I hope so. That means more insurance $ towards a new motor/transmission combo

Thanks as always!

[Ironangel]

The arm "IS" bent! It should easily straighten back out and reweld to the bushing collar. The Stud looks straight enough also, I dont see any reason why you cant straighten the bar, reweld it to the collar and reassemble it. Remove the bushing before welding. The only cast iron in the vicinity of the track bar is the stud mount and rearend housing. The track bar and stud are not cast. Sorry Firefighter, I know my metals like you know your fires.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

The arm "IS" bent! It should easily straighten back out and reweld to the bushing collar. The Stud looks straight enough also, I dont see any reason why you cant straighten the bar, reweld it to the collar and reassemble it. Remove the bushing before welding. The only cast iron in the vicinity of the track bar is the stud mount and rearend housing. The track bar and stud are not cast. Sorry Firefighter, I know my metals like you know your fires.

You need to go back and read what I wrote before you call me out. I never said anywhere the bar or stud were cast. I said the center section was cast, and it is.

[michael bustamante]

if you want to replace that stud let me know, Ill give you one, just cover shipping

[screamin_c10]

Just went out and looked at my trucks and all of them have the stud tilted up and out just like the pics. The reason for this is that the trackbar mounts to a crossmember behind the axle, so the bar cannot run parrallel and therfore the stud cannot be at a 90* angle to the rearend.

Originally Posted by Ironangel

I dont see any reason why you cant straighten the bar, reweld it to the collar and reassemble it.

On a different note there is no way in hell I would re-use that trackbar. The amount of force put on it to bend it and sheer off the bushing end had to be tremendous. Heating it and bending it straight will just weaken it more. There are literally thousands of these trucks in junkyards where a used replacement can be sourced. Better yet adjustable aftermarket units are cheap as well.

Think of the poster and others on the road before reccomending that a suspension component that badly damaged be straightened rigged back together, if it were to let loose in a turn the results could range from bad to dead.

Summary: keep the stud, check the centersection (cast iron) for cracks, score a new trackbar from a yard or vendor....stay safe, drive your truck and ditch the Honda...

[oldblue1968chevy]

PSHH what Honda!!

Im welding up both my trailing arms (should've been done 1st time around). Picked up my carrier bearing, dropped U bolts off so they can order in the AM.

Hopefully after school i'll get my t arm welded and or my carrier bearing put in, my rearend is STILL leaking after new seal etc..so may fiddle with it some..


straightening it is a no no lol

[VA72C10]

I actually found a tracbar stud tonight while posting pictures of my parts for sale. It's yours if you want/need it. No charge...just pm me your address....

[oldblue1968chevy]

thanks! But I think the stud is straight,i was worried if the part it goes into was bent, looking from the top it looks bent to the left

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

thanks! But I think the stud is straight,i was worried if the part it goes into was bent, looking from the top it looks bent to the left

You're fine then since like TX said, that part is pre-bent like that and couldn't bend because it is part of the cast iron center housing of the rear...so get the basic adjustable trac bar and mount it to the stock locations and you're good to go.....

[matchstick]

Give me a shout when you get ready for a motor, and I'll do my best to hook you up.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Ive got the money saved up now but the truck isnt ready (needs to be running driving before I talk myself into buying more stuff. First things first is get a track bar (broken). New U bolts (looking for 2 inch longer ones for drop blocks). Then a lwb bedside, THEN motor transmission (maybe). And clean up underhood area and a droped spindle and cut front springs. thanks though, what can ya get?....

[matchstick]

I can get about anything. I have a friend that still messes with SBC and I've got a endless supply of LS motors.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Do you have ANY idea how long it would take me to figure out the wiring

EFI would be nicee....ive got the 350 from the orche truck torn down to the shortblock its got 4 bolt mains...