Doing axle swap, stupid questions

[zac]

OK, I'm getting ready to start my axle swap on my '79 K20, and I have a couple questions. This is nothing fancy, just swapping 4.10 10 bolt and 14 FF for 3.42 10 bolt and 14FF. I'm good with ripping apart and reassembling the 10 bolt, but I want to put in new balljoints. I have a 20 ton harbor freight press. Will this work, or should I get the ball joint press? Also, I should pick up the special socket to adust the ball joint, correct? The popular choice for ball joints seem to be heavy duty NAPA's or Spicer units from what I've seen here.

I've never had a 14 bolt apart before, but it seems to be pretty straight forward. I won't do anything to it unless I see a problem. The special socket is just for adjusting the wheel bearings, correct? I'm sure I will end up checking the bearings out.

Anybody have or know where I can find an exploded diagram having something to do with ball joint replacement? The manual I have kind of sucks. Thanks

[Chevymaniac]

I would buy the special socket for the locking nuts in the hubs, they are fairly cheap. I paid $20-$30 for mine. I personally would use the balljiont tool as it is like a gaint c-clap. Really easy to use. Pick them up at your nearest autoparts store. They might require deposit which you get back after you return the tool.

[Eturnit3]

you can use the press.. as long as you can get the knuckle situated right inside of it.. if not you are out $100 for about 2 hours and a trip to autobone. You shouldnt need the balljoint adjusting tool unless you need to change your alignment. I may be wrong but that is my best understanding. I would also recommend you find something that fits real well onto the knuckle when you press the ball joint out so you dont mess up the top of the race that it sits in... That is a benefit of getting the clamp type press at autozone, they have the right little sleeve's to fit the knuckle...

[zac]

Stripped the front axle all the way down to the knuckles today. The axle I'm taking out clearly has new ball joints on it. It has the zerk on the bottom of the lower ones and plugs in the bottom of the uppers and boots look new. What are the odds I can pop those off without damaging them and install those knuckles on the axle I'm swapping in?

The axle I'm swapping in had a steering arm for a lifted truck and the guy I bought it from kept it, which was fine by me. My plan was to take the steering arm off the axle I'm pulling out, leaving the drag link hooked up, then just bolt it on when the new axle is in place. I've got it soaked with PB right now. The 3 nuts came off fine, but that's it. What's the secret, a little bit of C4?

[Eturnit3]

lol no... Secret is a lil heat and a big hammer.. smack the front of the arm near the bolts but do not hit the studs if you are planning on ever using those studs again. Its a cone washer that seats around the stud that you are trying to get out.. well 3 of them :P

[Eturnit3]

I think I should clearify, when I say hit the front of the arm, what I mean is: if you are facing the wheel mount surface, you hit the side of the arm closest to you and on the small end to your right... Hope that makes sense.

[Eturnit3]

well did u get it?

[zac]

Yep, it's off. A few goods wacks on the side and those cone washers popped loose. I spent some time trying to free the ball joints and have given up on the idea of reusing them. I don't think they are going to be in very good shape by the time I'm done. I'm using the BFH technique on the upper and a pickle fork on the bottom. I figure I can make all my mistakes (and then fix them) on this truck so that I will have some idea what I'm doing before going through the D44 on my '70 K10 suburban.

I would like to put new axle seals on, but they appear to be all the way inside the axle tube by the pumpkin, is that right? I would assume they are a pain to replace. Oh well, gear oil is cheap.