Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

petey-pablo · 04-23-2010, 04:43 AM

This is the first time ever I have Changed an intake manifold gasket I cant afford to take to a shop.I was leaking oil & coolant from the back by the Dizzy.My truck is a 72 with a 454BB & th400
1. First off what do you guys use to clean everything up without contaminating the inside of the engine? I am tring to keep all debri out as good as I can, can I use carb cleaner or other cleaners to help in removal of old RTV? I know I have to change the Oil and the coolant when I am done.
2."IS THIS NORMAL OR DO HAVE TO WORRY" I was looking at the inside of the engine and noticed these round ring things not sure what you call them but all the rods don't have them looking the same are these round things Normal to be different some up and some down I took some pictures of what I am talking about the rings in question are the ones I have circled in RED and the ones to apear normal TO ME IN BLUE I just want to be sure I don't have a problem later down the line. I guess I can call my self an uncertified Mechanic now

Thanks in advance everyone for the help...

Tx Firefighter · 04-23-2010, 05:52 AM

Those are your lifters in the circles. They go up and down while the engine rotates. That's completely normal for them to look like that.

Second, tuck a large sheet of aluminum foil into the valley under the intake to catch any RTV shavings and gasket remnants as you clean. Also, stuff a paper towel into each port before you scrape the gasket too. Once the gasket area is scraped clean, pull the paper towels from the ports, then carefully fold the aluminum foil up to catch all the droppings. Dispose of it all.

Then take a minute to make damn sure you have removed all of the paper towels from each and every port.

cdowns · 04-23-2010, 06:43 AM

after you do that you can take a shopvac and go over the valley to get any additional debris

dwaite72lnghrn · 04-23-2010, 07:32 AM

One more thing it looks like you are not at TDC on cylinder #1 looking at the lifters. So watch putting the dizzy back in. I normally set TDC when I can Look at the lifters to make it easy.

**truckdude239** · 04-23-2010, 09:18 AM

looks quite normal to me

prostreetC-10 · 04-23-2010, 09:20 AM

It's funny to hear the honest questions of someone that is taking on a task for the first time. The big thing is to try and control the crap getting into the bottom of the motor. You just have to be real careful. Like the fireman said, those lifters are just up on a portion of the cam lobe.

Like Dave said, now is a great time to get the motor at top dead center. You do this be aligning your TDC on your crank to your timing pointer on your timing chain case. Be careful though because one turn will get you at TDC and one will get you at 180* out. You can tell by the lifters when you are on the mark. If you are at TDC, both lifters will be all the way down in the lifter bores. It will look like the ones you have circled in blue.

The other thing I like to do is to try and put paper towels or something in the head ports. You will more than likely need to scrap or remove some gasket material from the heads once the intake gasket it off. Make darn sure you don't have any material at all get into those ports. I've not heard of the tin foil trick but lay something into the valley to stop stuff getting down into the cam area and onto the lifters. When I'm done I also like to vacuum the whole area with a shop vac. Just take your time and watch for stuff falling where it shouldn't be!!!

petey-pablo · 04-23-2010, 09:22 AM

Cool thanks everyone I just have never done anything like this before and was cought of guard by the looks of the ring things not looking the same all around..

petey-pablo · 04-23-2010, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwaite72lnghrn

One more thing it looks like you are not at TDC on cylinder #1 looking at the lifters. So watch putting the dizzy back in. I normally set TDC when I can Look at the lifters to make it easy.

I have heard about putting it on TDC prior to doing this but I figured I could just mark the Dizzy and Rotor's location before taking it apart. Hope I din't make the wrong choice.

my67chevytruck · 04-23-2010, 09:30 AM

Good tips guys! I wish i would have known the TDC trick, we had the manifold off awhile back switching to an edelbrock... Hmm,, maybe i can convince Kevin ( TX FF ) to come by when im ready to fire.

Petey-Pablo, take your time and ask all the ?'s you need. looking forward to the updated progress pics!

petey-pablo · 04-23-2010, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prostreetC-10

It's funny to hear the honest questions of someone that is taking on a task for the first time. The big thing is to try and control the crap getting into the bottom of the motor. You just have to be real careful. Like the fireman said, those lifters are just up on a portion of the cam lobe.

Like Dave said, now is a great time to get the motor at top dead center. You do this be aligning your TDC on your crank to your timing pointer on your timing chain case. Be careful though because one turn will get you at TDC and one will get you at 180* out. You can tell by the lifters when you are on the mark. If you are at TDC, both lifters will be all the way down in the lifter bores. It will look like the ones you have circled in blue.

The other thing I like to do is to try and put paper towels or something in the head ports. You will more than likely need to scrap or remove some gasket material from the heads once the intake gasket it off. Make darn sure you don't have any material at all get into those ports. I've not heard of the tin foil trick but lay something into the valley to stop stuff getting down into the cam area and onto the lifters. When I'm done I also like to vacuum the whole area with a shop vac. Just take your time and watch for stuff falling where it shouldn't be!!!

This sounds like a good idea but like I said I have never done this before, Do I still have to set it to TDC even though I marked my dizz and rotor locations? Do I rotate the crank till the pointer on the balencer points to the 0 mark? and what lifters will be all the way down in the lifter bores?

Jim_PA · 04-23-2010, 09:41 AM

Who else moved closer to the screen to try to find something wrong with the lifters?

It's all good, we've all been there.

panda68 · 04-23-2010, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by petey-pablo

This sounds like a good idea but like I said I have never done this before, Do I still have to set it to TDC even though I marked my dizz and rotor locations? Do I rotate the crank till the pointer on the balencer points to the 0 mark? and what lifters will be all the way down in the lifter bores?

If you didnt rotate the motor at all start to finish the distributor should work fine where you marked it. The lifters will be at different heights because they ride on the cam lobes. Their location in the bores will depend on what stroke the pistons are in either intake, compression-combustion or exhaust. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valvetrain good luck dude.

crakarjax · 04-23-2010, 01:25 PM

Hmmm... good idea with the paper towel int he ports. I usually just try not to get crap in the ports and assume that if it does, it will just get burnt and expelled in the first cycle. Probably should play it safe from now on!

short-t · 04-23-2010, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by petey-pablo

I have heard about putting it on TDC prior to doing this but I figured I could just mark the Dizzy and Rotor's location before taking it apart. Hope I din't make the wrong choice.

There is no right or wrong choice as long as you marked the distributer prior to taking it out.
Some folks like to have the engine at TDC and some will just mark the dizzy just as you did!

DT1 · 04-23-2010, 02:27 PM

Getting the manifold to set down correctly when you re-install it can be a pain. Even more so when you're
working with a big block that's still in the truck.
Here's a tip I learned a few years back that works pretty well... Get four threaded studs (Or cut off the heads of four cap screws) the same size and length as the manifold bolts.
Screw them just a couple of threads down into the very front and back hole in each head.
The studs will help guide the manifold in place. After threading in a few of the manifold bolts you can remove the studs.

Tx Firefighter · 04-23-2010, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

Good tips guys! I wish i would have known the TDC trick, we had the manifold off awhile back switching to an edelbrock... Hmm,, maybe i can convince Kevin ( TX FF ) to come by when im ready to fire.

Petey-Pablo, take your time and ask all the ?'s you need. looking forward to the updated progress pics!

Leave your distributor on the work bench and call me. If I can't install the distributor right within 5 minutes, on the first attempt I will buy you a steak dinner.

**slomotion** · 04-23-2010, 04:14 PM

TX is right, I wouldn't change the engine/dist. relationship now. If you do, your dist. won't seat because of the oil pump drive slot orientation when you pulled the dist. It also matters WHEN you marked the dist. rotor. Before you pulled it? or after it was out? Did you notice the rotor turn slightly as you pulled the dist. up? You have to turn the rotor to where it stopped rotating before you put it back, then when you install it the rotor will turn back to where it was, and also ingage the oil pump drive all at the same time.
Hope I didn't confuse the issue, but a long time ago, I wondered why my dist. wouldn't seat, and it was the oil pump slot not being lined up.

my67chevytruck · 04-23-2010, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Leave your distributor on the work bench and call me. If I can't install the distributor right within 5 minutes, on the first attempt I will buy you a steak dinner.

Thanks Kevin,

I will definitely take you up on that!

**leddzepp** · 04-23-2010, 05:17 PM

If your oil pump slot does not line up with the distributor, you can use a slotted screwdriver to rotate it to the correct position.

OhOneWS6 · 04-23-2010, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DT1

Getting the manifold to set down correctly when you re-install it can be a pain. Even more so when you're
working with a big block that's still in the truck.
Here's a tip I learned a few years back that works pretty well... Get four threaded studs (Or cut off the heads of four cap screws) the same size and length as the manifold bolts.
Screw them just a couple of threads down into the very front and back hole in each head.
The studs will help guide the manifold in place. After threading in a few of the manifold bolts you can remove the studs.

That might work for a Ford but it will never work on a Chevy. Chevy intake bolts are at an angle (Square to the gasket surface).

I never use the end seals that come with the gaskets. Just run a bead of RTV instead. The center 4 intake bolts go into an oil passage. You need to put some type of thread sealant on them or it will seep oil through those bolts. You also need to follow the proper torque sequence when bolting the intake back down.

Torque Specs

Tx Firefighter · 04-24-2010, 06:54 AM

WS6 hit on a good point. Always throw the end seals away and use a 1/4 inch bead of black silicone instead. Back in the mid 90s I worked in a GM dealership and there was actually a memo from the General posted telling techs to do just that. GM determined it was much more reliable and less liable to cause warranty oil leaks.

petey-pablo · 04-29-2010, 09:06 PM

Ok guys I wanna say thanks for everyones help, The job is finally complete I just finished today yup today it took me long enough

I got cought up in other things pulled my bumper and front grill off to install the inner grill then back on again. I wanna give thanks to BIGJAKE97 he supplied the torque wrench and helped in the torque down. I put my carb back on today and added coolant the truck fired right up. I took a drive down to vintage chevy trucks here in fremont to pick up some bolts it ran good so far no leaks

I have my hood in the bed so I really couldn't get crazy sidwayz I have to wait till the weekend for a longer drive We did good thanks again .............

petey-pablo · 04-29-2010, 09:09 PM

One last question Should I drive it acouple hundred miles maybe 500 then re-drain the coolant and replace it also change the oil Just in case something might have fallen inside?

'72customdeluxe · 04-29-2010, 10:37 PM

you changed the oil before you drove right?

HOGDADDY · 04-29-2010, 11:23 PM

I might be a little late but is that a steel core intake gasket and are you installing an aluminum intake? I read posts and didn't see what your using.
If so, it is my understanding that aluminum intakes require composite gaskets (non-steel) while iron intakes use steel core. Btw Edelbrock even sells the composite gaskets for their intakes also.

04-23-2010, 05:52 AM	#2
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? Those are your lifters in the circles. They go up and down while the engine rotates. That's completely normal for them to look like that. Second, tuck a large sheet of aluminum foil into the valley under the intake to catch any RTV shavings and gasket remnants as you clean. Also, stuff a paper towel into each port before you scrape the gasket too. Once the gasket area is scraped clean, pull the paper towels from the ports, then carefully fold the aluminum foil up to catch all the droppings. Dispose of it all. Then take a minute to make damn sure you have removed all of the paper towels from each and every port. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin Last edited by Tx Firefighter; 04-23-2010 at 05:52 AM.

04-23-2010, 06:43 AM	#3
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? after you do that you can take a shopvac and go over the valley to get any additional debris __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

04-23-2010, 07:32 AM	#4
dwaite72lnghrn Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: central pa Posts: 1,525	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? One more thing it looks like you are not at TDC on cylinder #1 looking at the lifters. So watch putting the dizzy back in. I normally set TDC when I can Look at the lifters to make it easy. __________________ 72 longhorn c30 502BB/th400/fact air/4.11rear/ custom camper 72 bug(the better half's) under reconstruction 2009 HHR aqua blue 71 GMC k20 350/sm465 2009 Chevy hd3500 6.6 Victory Red crew cab dually Dave & Jeanne

04-23-2010, 09:18 AM	#5
truckdude239 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lewisville, Nc Posts: 10,238	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? looks quite normal to me __________________ David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube

04-23-2010, 09:20 AM	#6
prostreetC-10 My Carbon Footprint Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Orygun Posts: 5,527	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? It's funny to hear the honest questions of someone that is taking on a task for the first time. The big thing is to try and control the crap getting into the bottom of the motor. You just have to be real careful. Like the fireman said, those lifters are just up on a portion of the cam lobe. Like Dave said, now is a great time to get the motor at top dead center. You do this be aligning your TDC on your crank to your timing pointer on your timing chain case. Be careful though because one turn will get you at TDC and one will get you at 180* out. You can tell by the lifters when you are on the mark. If you are at TDC, both lifters will be all the way down in the lifter bores. It will look like the ones you have circled in blue. The other thing I like to do is to try and put paper towels or something in the head ports. You will more than likely need to scrap or remove some gasket material from the heads once the intake gasket it off. Make darn sure you don't have any material at all get into those ports. I've not heard of the tin foil trick but lay something into the valley to stop stuff getting down into the cam area and onto the lifters. When I'm done I also like to vacuum the whole area with a shop vac. Just take your time and watch for stuff falling where it shouldn't be!!! __________________ A quick "pedalfest" *Still getting loose (carb test)* 496 Initial fire up video!

04-23-2010, 04:43 AM	#1
petey-pablo "THE GREEN GOBLIN" Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Fremont Ca. Posts: 1,025	Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? This is the first time ever I have Changed an intake manifold gasket I cant afford to take to a shop.I was leaking oil & coolant from the back by the Dizzy.My truck is a 72 with a 454BB & th400 1. First off what do you guys use to clean everything up without contaminating the inside of the engine? I am tring to keep all debri out as good as I can, can I use carb cleaner or other cleaners to help in removal of old RTV? I know I have to change the Oil and the coolant when I am done. 2."IS THIS NORMAL OR DO HAVE TO WORRY" I was looking at the inside of the engine and noticed these round ring things not sure what you call them but all the rods don't have them looking the same are these round things Normal to be different some up and some down I took some pictures of what I am talking about the rings in question are the ones I have circled in RED and the ones to apear normal TO ME IN BLUE I just want to be sure I don't have a problem later down the line. I guess I can call my self an uncertified Mechanic now Thanks in advance everyone for the help... __________________ Petey-pablo "THE GREEN GOBLIN" 1972 Cheyenne 10 Short Fleet Side Front 2.5inch Spindles with 2inch Springs Rear 4inch drop Springs. 454BBC TH400,Posi 1971 Cheyenne 10 Long Fleet Side 454BBC TH350,Posi Sold Drive it like you stole it! Petey-pablo@sbcglobal.net

04-23-2010, 09:22 AM	#7
petey-pablo "THE GREEN GOBLIN" Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Fremont Ca. Posts: 1,025	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? Cool thanks everyone I just have never done anything like this before and was cought of guard by the looks of the ring things not looking the same all around.. __________________ Petey-pablo "THE GREEN GOBLIN" 1972 Cheyenne 10 Short Fleet Side Front 2.5inch Spindles with 2inch Springs Rear 4inch drop Springs. 454BBC TH400,Posi 1971 Cheyenne 10 Long Fleet Side 454BBC TH350,Posi Sold Drive it like you stole it! Petey-pablo@sbcglobal.net

04-23-2010, 09:30 AM	#9
my67chevytruck Under Construction Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Midlothian,TX (DFW) Posts: 4,555	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? Good tips guys! I wish i would have known the TDC trick, we had the manifold off awhile back switching to an edelbrock... Hmm,, maybe i can convince Kevin ( TX FF ) to come by when im ready to fire. Petey-Pablo, take your time and ask all the ?'s you need. looking forward to the updated progress pics! __________________ Heath subscribe to the board here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=157669 FAQ how to's 1956 Chevy Apache 1967 C10 SWB FleetSide (under construction) 1969 K10 SWB FleetSide (Future Build) 1972 C10 SWB Stepside (Future Build) 56 chevy truck : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2955823/1 67 truck build: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=281357/1 69 k10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=389470 Last edited by my67chevytruck; 04-23-2010 at 09:30 AM.

04-23-2010, 09:41 AM	#11
Jim_PA Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: PA Posts: 2,696	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? Who else moved closer to the screen to try to find something wrong with the lifters? It's all good, we've all been there.

04-23-2010, 01:25 PM	#13
crakarjax Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Kirkland, WA Posts: 1,302	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? Hmmm... good idea with the paper towel int he ports. I usually just try not to get crap in the ports and assume that if it does, it will just get burnt and expelled in the first cycle. Probably should play it safe from now on! __________________ 1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed

04-23-2010, 02:27 PM	#15
DT1 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Gardnerville Nv No Mo Cali!! Posts: 869	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? Getting the manifold to set down correctly when you re-install it can be a pain. Even more so when you're working with a big block that's still in the truck. Here's a tip I learned a few years back that works pretty well... Get four threaded studs (Or cut off the heads of four cap screws) the same size and length as the manifold bolts. Screw them just a couple of threads down into the very front and back hole in each head. The studs will help guide the manifold in place. After threading in a few of the manifold bolts you can remove the studs.

04-23-2010, 04:14 PM	#17
slomotion Old Duffer Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Maine Posts: 1,822	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? TX is right, I wouldn't change the engine/dist. relationship now. If you do, your dist. won't seat because of the oil pump drive slot orientation when you pulled the dist. It also matters WHEN you marked the dist. rotor. Before you pulled it? or after it was out? Did you notice the rotor turn slightly as you pulled the dist. up? You have to turn the rotor to where it stopped rotating before you put it back, then when you install it the rotor will turn back to where it was, and also ingage the oil pump drive all at the same time. Hope I didn't confuse the issue, but a long time ago, I wondered why my dist. wouldn't seat, and it was the oil pump slot not being lined up. __________________ '68 Short C20 Flatbed Dually w/ 292 4bbl, Langdon cast headers, and WC T5 trans. '81 G10 Shorty Van "Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement." Will Rogers "Under promise, then over achieve."

04-23-2010, 05:17 PM	#19
leddzepp Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Southern Cal Posts: 20,036	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? If your oil pump slot does not line up with the distributor, you can use a slotted screwdriver to rotate it to the correct position. __________________ 1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul

04-24-2010, 06:54 AM	#21
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? WS6 hit on a good point. Always throw the end seals away and use a 1/4 inch bead of black silicone instead. Back in the mid 90s I worked in a GM dealership and there was actually a memo from the General posted telling techs to do just that. GM determined it was much more reliable and less liable to cause warranty oil leaks. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

04-29-2010, 09:06 PM	#22
petey-pablo "THE GREEN GOBLIN" Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Fremont Ca. Posts: 1,025	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? Ok guys I wanna say thanks for everyones help, The job is finally complete I just finished today yup today it took me long enough I got cought up in other things pulled my bumper and front grill off to install the inner grill then back on again. I wanna give thanks to BIGJAKE97 he supplied the torque wrench and helped in the torque down. I put my carb back on today and added coolant the truck fired right up. I took a drive down to vintage chevy trucks here in fremont to pick up some bolts it ran good so far no leaks I have my hood in the bed so I really couldn't get crazy sidwayz I have to wait till the weekend for a longer drive We did good thanks again ............. __________________ Petey-pablo "THE GREEN GOBLIN" 1972 Cheyenne 10 Short Fleet Side Front 2.5inch Spindles with 2inch Springs Rear 4inch drop Springs. 454BBC TH400,Posi 1971 Cheyenne 10 Long Fleet Side 454BBC TH350,Posi Sold Drive it like you stole it! Petey-pablo@sbcglobal.net



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04-29-2010, 09:09 PM	#23
petey-pablo "THE GREEN GOBLIN" Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Fremont Ca. Posts: 1,025	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? One last question Should I drive it acouple hundred miles maybe 500 then re-drain the coolant and replace it also change the oil Just in case something might have fallen inside? __________________ Petey-pablo "THE GREEN GOBLIN" 1972 Cheyenne 10 Short Fleet Side Front 2.5inch Spindles with 2inch Springs Rear 4inch drop Springs. 454BBC TH400,Posi 1971 Cheyenne 10 Long Fleet Side 454BBC TH350,Posi Sold Drive it like you stole it! Petey-pablo@sbcglobal.net

04-29-2010, 10:37 PM	#24
'72customdeluxe Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Tejas Posts: 691	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? you changed the oil before you drove right? __________________ '72 cheyenne super step, '05 long bed gmc

04-29-2010, 11:23 PM	#25
HOGDADDY Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Alabama Posts: 661	Re: Questions on Changeing intake manifold gasket is this normal? I might be a little late but is that a steel core intake gasket and are you installing an aluminum intake? I read posts and didn't see what your using. If so, it is my understanding that aluminum intakes require composite gaskets (non-steel) while iron intakes use steel core. Btw Edelbrock even sells the composite gaskets for their intakes also.

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