power window question

[FamilyMike]

Niether one of the power windows work, niether switch, when hit the passenger power window switch....nothing. When I hit the one for drivers to control passenger nothing, when I hit the button for the drivers window I hear a clicking in the drivers door. I would rather spend my money elsewhere than buying window motors and swtiches etc. Unless someone knows what this is and an easy fix.

Questions is, how hard or easy would it be to just convert to manual windows? I know I would need to get the manual regulators and handles etc? Is this even an option? I just don't want to mess around with new power window motors and crap!!!! Thanks for any info.

[RandyP]

Is easy to check to make sure power is getting to the motor. When you have no sound at all, you gotta check to be sure you do not have a broken wire. Broken wires happen a lot, usually where they bend all the time in the door jamb. Just get a test light and see if power is making it.
If power is making it, the motor needs replaced, very easy task to do and rebuilt motors or even new aftermarkets are fairly cheap. Chances are you'll get a motor cheaper than a manual regulator setup. You can swap to manual crank, just get a manual regulator, crank and a Jesus clip (you know, one of those clips that you pop out and it goes flying and is so small it's hard to find, and you go OH JESUS!). If I remember, the hole for the crank in the trim panel is actually in the same spot as the power window switch.

[FamilyMike]

I am going to be checking that. Thanks

[f.monroe]

I just replaced thge drivers side window motor in my dads 87 because of the clicking noise and not going down. The motor was $37 including a $4 core charge and I used a $3 package of 3/16 long reach steel rivets to attach the bracket to the new motor . Not bad and it works great . I think it would be just as hard to convert to manual windows as it would be to fix the electric setup.
Frank

[FamilyMike]

Frank, where did you get the motor from???? Thanks

[RandyP]

We tossed both left and right in my 87 a week or so ago. I paid $32 each for them at Oreillys, but I'm a shop who buys a lot from them and get better than jobber prices. Especially when I use the phrase "this is for my truck". Website shows $43 for a reman or $50 for a new motor.

We do not have a NAPA in our little town, just Oreillys, AutoZone and Advance Auto. Never tried Advance, but we will not use AutoZone for any part that has anything "flow through it" (water, gas, electric etc).

[f.monroe]

Originally Posted by FamilyMike

Frank, where did you get the motor from???? Thanks

I bought it our local auto parts store . They can be bought at any of the large chain stores as posted above .
Frank

[westofb]

Before you go buying stuff, loosen the rubber sleeve on the drivers door and a pillar. Look inside there at the wiring, there are some ground wires there that have been factory crimped together, these trucks are notoriuos for the ground wires breaking at the crimped joint and then nothing works, sometimes will even affect the power locks too if you have them. Fix the bad connection and your windows will once again go up and down (this connection also affects the operation of the passenger side window!).

You are welcome, hopes it fixes hour problem.

[jbmatth]

If it turns out you need new motors I have a set that came with my truck. I haven't tried them but they were supposed to be working when he took them out if you are interested I'd like to get them out of my shop. Let us know how it goes.

[tucsonjwt]

Don't do anything until you know what is wrong. I have been all around the power window issue on my 83. My advice - pull the door panels off (10 minute job), reach down inside the door and unhook the connector going to the motor, bring the connector out of an opening in the door, put the two probes of a multimeter set to read volts into the two tabs inside the connector, turn the ignition switch to on and operate the switch- got a reading of 11 volts or more? if yes, everything up to the motor is good - you have a bad motor or stuck regulator, if no, start working back from the connector, testing for power along the wiring up to the connector. If you don't have a voltmeter they are less than $10 for a cheap one - you might have to experiment with the right setting to get it to read 11 volts.
Note: If your regulator is jammed up, the motor will just click and eventually burn out.
Since you have a click in one door, the power is good up to the motor in that door. I would not convert your windows to manual - all of the parts will be way more than fixing what you have and it will likely look like a hack job. I am guessing you have a simple broken wire as suggested above, and/or you could use a new motor or two. Two aftermarket motors are about $48 on ebay, and genuine AC-Delco (my choice) are like $51/pair. If you need new repair/connector pigtails they are like $13 each, so this is not big money like most other repairs on these old beasts. Let us know if you need some step-by-step - I have two skinned hands worth of experience on this one.

[buffyfan]

double post

[buffyfan]

FWIW I've found the motors on ebay for a decent price ($47 shipped for both).
ebay link Thing is...how the heck do you get them out? I've felt down in there and I'm just not sure how to get the motors out. Any help (or pics) greatly appreciated.

[Slonaker]

Originally Posted by buffyfan

FWIW I've found the motors on ebay for a decent price ($47 shipped for both).
ebay link Thing is...how the heck do you get them out? I've felt down in there and I'm just not sure how to get the motors out. Any help (or pics) greatly appreciated.

This might help.

http://73-87.com/7387garage/interior/winmotor.htm

Slonaker

[tucsonjwt]

buffy fan - I strongly recommend that you reach down inside the door and disconnect the connector to the power window motor and check the power to the motor first (see post above). It is possible that motors can be OK and other (simple) things can cause power windows not to function correctly. I have replaced motors and switches that did not need to be replaced. To replace the motors, you have to remove the regulator and motor as one unit and change the motor out once the whole assembly is outside the door.

[buffyfan]

No, it's definately the motors. The gears are stripped. I can move the windows fine by hand, but the motor just whirs.

And that's great Slonaker. Exactly what I've been looking for. I THOUGHT I felt some bolts there, but haven't been able to get a wrench back there and on them. I'm thinking of cutting an access panel in the inside part of the door so I can get in there without pulling the glass out. Because I just KNOW I'll end up shattering that glass if I try to pull it all out.

[motornut]

BTW CHECK FOR MOTORS IN THE DOORS My 85 sub was from Texas,came up here to a land frozen earth for months of the year.i figured the two extremes were why i found broken wires in the jam years ago.Someone tried to figure out the wires...even a few extra wires added in .....all nicely numbered etc....got the two fronts working sometimes....turns out the 85 rears never had motors...not a mark to show they ever did...back windows were wired up closed.....spent a winter with the all windows stuck up (better them up than being down all winter)......manual windows sounds just fine to me.....87 sub had power window/locks issues too .....swapped in some from a crew cab.......

[f.monroe]

I pulled the entire regulator out and dismantled it on a bench. I left the window in the door . I just slid the entire reg back and removed it from the channels after removing the two bolts and two nuts that hold it to the door . I made a couple hooks from an old coat hanger to hold the glass in the full up position. Not a bad job at all . I even had the truck sit overnight and it rained . No water in the truck because of the window being held in place with the wire hooks .I hooked the wiring up after I reinstalled it and used the switch to line up the bolts and studs .
Frank

[zeewhiz]

Originally Posted by westofb

Before you go buying stuff, loosen the rubber sleeve on the drivers door and a pillar. Look inside there at the wiring, there are some ground wires there that have been factory crimped together, these trucks are notoriuos for the ground wires breaking at the crimped joint and then nothing works, sometimes will even affect the power locks too if you have them. Fix the bad connection and your windows will once again go up and down (this connection also affects the operation of the passenger side window!).

You are welcome, hopes it fixes hour problem.

I too am trying to fix this problem. Thanks for this tip, but how do I get the metal flanges that hold the sleeve off of the door and A-pillar? They are riveted in. Sure I could drill the rivets out with a right angle drill, but then how do I reattch them, with sheetmetal screws?

Thanks for any input!

-Matt