Ideas for installing the side moulding (trim)..

[Roadrage]

Hey guys.. and gals. I still need to install the side moulding for my truck because the holes are there for it, and I think it would look better with moulding. What is the best kind to get? and the source to get it. I would really like it to look factory. I also have a gas tank door on both sides.

Also, anyone have an ideas for putting on my fender emblems? I have no way of putting on the nuts on the backside. And I don't want to remove my fenders and possibly screw up their alignment..

Thanks in advance!

[73chevyman]

dude me honestly i'd leave it it looks great the way it sits... i think the molding would over do it...... oh sweet ride!!!!!

[misternash2]

very nice pickerup. i'd leave the moulding off also, personally. the fender emblems, too

[RandyP]

Look factory you say? Start with fixing the suspension, then the grille and headlamps.

The side mouldings are double back tape, cut to fit, available from lots of sources. The holes you speak of are probably on the bed corners under the tail lights, there are metal corner mouldings that go on there and are held on with clips and nuts. Your fender emblems, double back tape holds them on.

[87 chevy silverado]

as far as the Silverado emblem goes.I didn't wont to put holes in my fender even though it needs body work and paint. I took the tabs off the back of the emblem an used
(red rvt silicone) what u use to seal a motor when putting it back together. Then put painters tape over the emblem for about an 2 hours and take the tape off carfully .Make sure the fender is clean where u are putting the emblem thought. I know most people thing im crazy for using silicone but it worked and u cant tell the difference.

[Stitch]

first off, the fella said he wanted moulding on the side...so let's help him with that...also, let's not judge his taste on looking factory or not...the headlights and grille are factory for the square body...give the guy a little slack...

on topic, the fender emblems have inserts that push into the holes in the fenders, and the fender emblems have plastic tabs that should push into the inserts...if you have aftermarket emblems that have nuts on the back of them, you should be able to get to the inside of the fender from under the hood...the holes that are on the rear bed corners are for the corner trim pieces previously referenced...you can get to the nuts for those by taking out the taillights...if you don't have those corner trim pieces and you try to bend the moulding around the corners, it will come loose...I can show you pictures of the truck I just got that the PO did that to and they are coming loose...you can get the moulding precut or in a roll from LMC truck . com...if you have more questions feel free to ask...

on a side note, I like the factory look...I'm putting all the moulding and emblems on my truck when it gets redone here soon...and it will be lowered and have some wheels on it...the only thing that won't be a factory square body item on the truck will be the suspension and the wheels and tires...so I feel ya on wanting that look...

[87 chevy silverado]

good looking truck btw

[87 chevy silverado]

Originally Posted by Fat Hoe

first off, the fella said he wanted moulding on the side...so let's help him with that...also, let's not judge his taste on looking factory or not...the headlights and grille are factory for the square body...give the guy a little slack...

on topic, the fender emblems have inserts that push into the holes in the fenders, and the fender emblems have plastic tabs that should push into the inserts...if you have aftermarket emblems that have nuts on the back of them, you should be able to get to the inside of the fender from under the hood...the holes that are on the rear bed corners are for the corner trim pieces previously referenced...you can get to the nuts for those by taking out the taillights...if you don't have those corner trim pieces and you try to bend the moulding around the corners, it will come loose...I can show you pictures of the truck I just got that the PO did that to and they are coming loose...you can get the moulding precut or in a roll from LMC truck . com...if you have more questions feel free to ask...

on a side note, I like the factory look...I'm putting all the moulding and emblems on my truck when it gets redone here soon...and it will be lowered and have some wheels on it...the only thing that won't be a factory square body item on the truck will be the suspension and the wheels and tires...so I feel ya on wanting that look...

x2

[Sillyoldman]

Originally Posted by 87 chevy silverado

x2

Yep X3 and lets be nice.

[tdiffee]

I can't actually help you on the topic but I am going to judge.....I think the truck is awsome like it sits but I think the molding will make it look that much better but everyone has different ways they have and will build and mod. Great job so far!!!

[Outlaw87]

For the silverado 10 emblems, cut the tabs off the back and use 3M double sided tape to install them on your fenders. That way if in the future you decide to take them off you can pull them off with a heat gun and not ruin your paint.

For the body molding, its best to buy a role of molding IMO. That way you can cut it exactly to the truck. The LMC molding kit is not cut like the factory ones, their cut short and come with only one fuel door set up. You have to cut the other side to get the other fuel door. Plus the roll is cheaper than the kit. You will need to get the wheel moldings for the body moldings to look good and to complete the factory look.

By the way, love the truck, with or without the moldings!!!

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by Fat Hoe

first off, the fella said he wanted moulding on the side...so let's help him with that...also, let's not judge his taste on looking factory or not...the headlights and grille are factory for the square body...give the guy a little slack...

on topic, the fender emblems have inserts that push into the holes in the fenders, and the fender emblems have plastic tabs that should push into the inserts...if you have aftermarket emblems that have nuts on the back of them, you should be able to get to the inside of the fender from under the hood...the holes that are on the rear bed corners are for the corner trim pieces previously referenced...you can get to the nuts for those by taking out the taillights...if you don't have those corner trim pieces and you try to bend the moulding around the corners, it will come loose...I can show you pictures of the truck I just got that the PO did that to and they are coming loose...you can get the moulding precut or in a roll from LMC truck . com...if you have more questions feel free to ask...

on a side note, I like the factory look...I'm putting all the moulding and emblems on my truck when it gets redone here soon...and it will be lowered and have some wheels on it...the only thing that won't be a factory square body item on the truck will be the suspension and the wheels and tires...so I feel ya on wanting that look...

I'm gonna jump on the ditto wagon too.

It's looks freaking awesome as-is, you nailed the stance, wheel/tire size combo, everything! Perfect for my tastes! I used to be a no trim or emblem guy, and wouldn't hesitate to have mine look like yours, but lately I'm moving back to the "put the trim back on" camp. But I can picture it with the lower molding on, maybe even the wheel well trim, and that would be just the right amount of flash to really make it "pop".

As far as WHERE to put the stick-on molding, mine measures:

* Rear: where the stick-on molding meets the metal molding under the taillight = 10" down from the sharp edge of the body line to the top edge of the molding.

* Front: where the molding ends at the rear edge of the front wheel well = 11" down from the sharp edge of the body line to the top edge of the molding.

[Outlaw87]

This a another members truck for reference.

[Roadrage]

Thanks everyone for chiming in! That last truck is sick with the moulding, is that from a roll or pre-cut kit? I have the new wheel moulding, but I also have the factory holes in the truck for the side moulding and fender emblems.. For a while there I was debating even taking off the mirrors and putting on a square peep mirror, just not sure how many & how big the holes are in the door under the stock mirrors....

Thanks for the comments, last weekend I took my 20's off, put the Ralley's back on using an 1 1/4" spacer (rear tires tuck perfect), and then lowered the rear 1"... NOW I think I got the stance nailed.

Going back to 22's again as soon as I can find some that I like.

Oh and my fender emblems are held on with plastic nuts that make their own threads (definitely no way of reaching the nuts from inside the fender). I wish I could find some kind of clip so they would just pop on..

[Outlaw87]

Not sure, maybe the owner will chime in and give some more info on it.

From the looks of it i would say he got a roll and did it himself. The reason I say that is because I ordered a LMC kit and it did not fit like that so I ended up ordering a roll and cutting it myself.

The bed corner trim pieces are still available, but if you choose not to use them you can just use the body molding and it will cover up the holes.

There is three bolts holding the mirrors on. I'm not 100% sure, but I want to say the bolts are 3/8, so you would have to fill those in if you choose a smaller mirror.

[Roadrage]

Thanks for the info. I figured there would be issues with the kit from LMC, sometimes some of those parts are just plain cheap. Do you think the roll moulding would match up with the factory tailgate pieces (the metal ones)?

[N2TRUX]

Nothing wrong with you guys offering your input about not using the trim again, but I think y'all over looked a very important part of his original post....

Originally Posted by Roadrage

Hey guys.. and gals. I still need to install the side moulding for my truck because the holes are there for it, and I think it would look better with moulding...