Control Arm Help

[chevguy7]

I have recently rebuilt my suspension with ECE springs and shocks. I also have new Moog ball joints. The issue I am running into now is that my upper control arm bushings have gone bad. I probably should have double checked this while I had everything apart. The question I have is if it is difficult to replace the upper control arm bushings on your own. I already have them and could take it to a shop if needed. At this point in time I believe I would need to take the suspension apart by removing the lower control arm first from the "U" bolts. Is this correct? Thanks. Sorry for such a long question.

[mcampbell]

When I tore my blazer front apart to install the new ECE drop kit the upper control arms wouldn't even swivel full travel to the upper stop. The smartest thing I did was buy the full front end rebuild kit from ECE. It was all Moog components. I found other kits cheaper but none had the new dog bones where the a arm mounts to the frame.
Someone with more knowledge will tell me where there is a better solution but for now I am glad I spent the $500 to make it all new. I need to do the same on the 70 pickup so I will be watching this thread to see if there is a better answer out there.

[chevguy7]

bump

[Wrenchbender Ret]

No need to take the lower arm loose. Just pop the upper ball joint loose from the spindle & unbolt the upper arm. Some have the brake hose atached to the arm. Keep the shims in the position they were & put them back.

[chevguy7]

Will I have to worry about tearing the boot on the ball joint? I want to avoid this since the ball joints and boots are all brand new.

[JCA1972]

Any time that you have to take the ball joints apart you risk tearing the rubber boot. I chaged out the cambers on my 71 it was pretty easy, you can do it your self. Like wrenchbender said place all the shims back like they were.

[chevguy7]

So in order to completely avoid tearing the boots should I just go the long route and remove the lower control arm first with the "U" bolts and take everything off from there?

[leddzepp]

Why would you tear the boot on a balljoint? You dont need a picklefork, just whack the spindle with a BFH a few times and they will pop loose.

[Jayss109]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

Why would you tear the boot on a balljoint? You dont need a picklefork, just whack the spindle with a BFH a few times and they will pop loose.

Especially since they are new! Just go for it!!! Its not that hard at all.

[chevguy7]

I might give that a try then especially since I would save money over taking it to a shop to do it. Do you think I will need new studs on the frame as well? If I do, what part number would it be: LMC Parts List ?

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by chevguy7

Will I have to worry about tearing the boot on the ball joint? I want to avoid this since the ball joints and boots are all brand new.

I did front end work for a living for years and never use a pickle fork unless the ball joint won't separate from the spindle any other way.

Take the cotter key out, back the nut off several turns and hit the "spindle" beside where the stud from the ball joint goes through it with a bfh. I mean one that is about 2-1/2 lbs. I use a machinists hammer.

The idea is to pop the stud out of the spindle. I usually turn the spindle so that it is turned out on the side I want to hit with the hammer and then hit it squarely with the handle of the hammer on pretty much the same plane as the shaft on the spindle.

Do not hit the stud on the ball joint though.

I've done who knows how many like that and it's a lot better than using a pickle fork. You will still have to use a pickle fork if you have the spindles powder coated or painted all fancy though.

Once you have the control arm out changing the shaft and bushings is fairly simple.