Make my truck hook!!

[drag_72]

its got adjustable ladder bars, narrowed 9in(that doesnt matter) 4.11 gears, coil over shocks.

it just spins the 18.5's off like nothing. i dont think thats supposed to be right lol but if someone has ever had the same problem and has adjusted something to fix it or if someone knows a little bit of tuneing advice for me that'd be great! thanks

[Ont67shortbox]

what air pressure are you running, is it a slick or DOT tire ?What is the size of the tire ?

[Dieselwrencher]

Air pressure can effect it a lot like mentioned. How much pinion angle are you running?

[drag_72]

DOT Mickey thompsons. they are 18.5's. not sure on the pinion angle. i will check tomorrow. and when i get on it hard a in a higher gear the a** end tends to shimmy back and forth. so im thinkin the wheelbase is jacked off on it?

[Super73]

How high off the ground is the front hole of the ladder bar (middle of the bolt)?
Can it go up/down? If so, how far each direction?
What spring is in the front? (Would like to know rate and length if possible)
What spring is in the rear? (Would like to know rate and length if possible)
How about shocks both front and rear?
Is this traction issue on the street, at the track, both?

[midevil1]

Originally Posted by drag_72

DOT Mickey thompsons. they are 18.5's. not sure on the pinion angle. i will check tomorrow. and when i get on it hard a in a higher gear the a** end tends to shimmy back and forth. so im thinkin the wheelbase is jacked off on it?

those tires suck. -2 on the pinion angle for a street vehicle is good. you mean, shimmy side to side? I'm not sure about a jacked off wheelbase, but it sounds fun....

[prostreetC-10]

Originally Posted by drag_72

im thinkin the wheelbase is jacked off on it?

Isn't that a street racing term?

LOL....I'm sorry guy, I just couldn't resist! Just having fun with you.

Seriously..on those tires, You say they are "dot" tires but all street tires are going to be DOT approved. I clicked on your profile and it sure looks like you are running the M/T S/R pro street radials. Is that what they are?

I know I'm running the standard sportsman and they spin for miles. The sportsman "pro" are a little better because they are a wrinkle wall but not real good on the street.

Retard that timing about 15* and she'll probably hook real well. If you have the kind of power talked about in another thread, it might be hard to get them to hook unless you are in the wet box lighting them up.

[ProStreet68SB]

Mickey T sportsmans are horrible, only they're good for is lookin good.

I know a set of Hoosier 31x18.5 pro street radials hook decent at the track.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by ProStreet68SB

Mickey T sportsmans are horrible, only they're good for is lookin good.

I know a set of Hoosier 31x18.5 pro street radials hook decent at the track.

This is the same thing I have noticed. Mine don't hook on the street at all during a wide open run. On the strip they are pretty good unless I leave the line with a lot of boost.

[drag_72]

come on now prostreet c10 lol im tryin to redeem myself and do it the right way lol

[prostreetC-10]

Hey....you took enough shots on that last thread that it's a good. Youz one of us again!! lol

Just wish my truck had that much power ya young whipper snapper.

[drag_72]

what kinda power does ur truck make?

[prostreetC-10]

I would guess a little over 400hp. It's got a lot of bark but not that much bite. It fools a lot of people. Granted......I know how to drive a 4 speed so I can put on a show. It's just a little comp 280/.520 lift. It breathes well and I don't want it any quicker. It's really just my cruising "shop truck".

The 67 fastback in my signature will be the real power. Will be a full roller 331 or 347 with AFR 185 outlaw heads. In a 2900 lbs car....she's gunna scoot!

Curious.....what heads are you running? Is that 1030 Holley a 4150 platform carb? Just curious where the cfm is coming from? I've got a couple of 1000 holley 4150s and they usually are not too good on the street due to the size of the venturis. That's a big hole to cover in the lower rpms.

[Hottrucks]

Originally Posted by ProStreet68SB

Mickey T sportsmans are horrible, only they're good for is lookin good.

I know a set of Hoosier 31x18.5 pro street radials hook decent at the track.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

This is the same thing I have noticed. Mine don't hook on the street at all during a wide open run. On the strip they are pretty good unless I leave the line with a lot of boost.

I have to agree my sad sack 283 auto truck will fry the M/T's ....the 70's from wally world had more traction....can't imagine what going to happen with te Caddy??? But I'm sure I'm going to have issues....time to start thinking about moving some weight back....but the only thing left under the hood is the battery??

[red rumbler]

make you a$$ end real soft and make the front not too stiff but stiff and you should have a better hook up with weight transfer. you want it to squat and go. and you said you just got the ladder bars, itll take some patients and playing around to finally find a setup you like

[Hottrucks]

I don't understand the use of Ladder bars with our trailing arm suspention?? are you saying that the trailing arms will wrap up then unload like a spring??

[prostreetC-10]

I'd be interested to know if that long piece of metal has any flex under a hard load. When I think of ladder bars, all I can think of is the 66-67 Chevelles that everyone had them on back in the day. Funny too because those Chevelles technically had a trianglulated 4 link.

[red rumbler]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

I don't understand the use of Ladder bars with our trailing arm suspention?? are you saying that the trailing arms will wrap up then unload like a spring??

the ladder bar keeps the axel from wheel hop ( axle wrap ) and with thed ladder bar alot of people put coilovers or adjustable rear shocks instead of the leaf springs so the weight transfer is greater and puts more weight on the rear end ( squatting ). but now there are slider kits out there for the leafs so you just take or add leafs until you have the setup you like and the axel slides up and down the leafs for better hookup. without the sliders the leafs would bind with the ladderbars and the laderbars would be almost useless. if im wrong can someone correct me? but im almost sure thats the whole concept. im not sure about the flex though.. it makes sence that they would but i wouldnt imagine they would enough to make a difference

[red rumbler]

softer the rear spring the more it will squat so coilovers are probs the best

[Hottrucks]

so we agree ladder bars on a trailing arm suspention is useless

[Dieselwrencher]

If you look at these chevelles, gto's, oldmobiles, and buicks, they use a type of traction devise in a shape of a c that goes on top of the rear axle. They work pretty well.

[jgh64pkup]

too bad they dont make the et streets in a bigger tire
they hook up like a mofo
id almost bet the et street radial is the hardest hooking dot tire you can buy
the widest radial they have is a 13.5 but the et street drag comes in a 16

[Super73]

Originally Posted by red rumbler

softer the rear spring the more it will squat so coilovers are probs the best

I'm sorry but I disagree 50%..

If your rear suspension has < 100% antisquat yes, ANY spring will squat. How much depends on your antisquat percentage, spring rate, shock adjustment and how far your front raises..

If your rear suspension has exactly 100% antisquat, your rear will not squat nor seperate if your fron suspension stays constant. However, this most likely will never happen. As your front raises, your center of gravity then does the same inducing < 100% antisquat, so again you will squat the rear.

Here is the problem with what you are saying.

If your rear suspension has > 100% antisquat, under load you will now get seperation (axle goes down in to the ground and the body moves up in the air). It doesn't matter if you have 50lb rear springs or 250lb rear springs.



This is why I asked all the questions I did in my first response on this thread. With out having a clear picture of what is really going on, it's going to be hard to help.

[team39763]

Originally Posted by red rumbler

make you a$$ end real soft and make the front not too stiff but stiff and you should have a better hook up with weight transfer. you want it to squat and go. and you said you just got the ladder bars, itll take some patients and playing around to finally find a setup you like

For some reason, I always thought we needed the front end soft and loose and the back end firm and tight. Isn't excessive squat just wasted energy?

[Super73]

Not always.. You could argue excessive front travle is wasted energy too.

I believe having a vehicle set up as loose as needed (with out being too loose) to make work is the best. The way to do this in my opinion is with light long springs in both locations, using a good adjustable shock. Knowing how to adjust rear suspension for squat/antisquat under varying track conditions and what effects that has on front suspension. Understanding when to loosen up the front vs the back.

Again, squat is a characteristic of your instant center of gravity in relationship to your center of gravity. If your instant center of gravity line passes above your center of gravity height above the front axle, you are going to induce antisquat no matter what spring you have in the rear (just might not raise as much). If your ICG is bellow your CG, you are going to induce squat, no matter what spring you have in there (just might not squat as much).

The higher the + antisquat number is, the more sepperation your going to create and the more it will force the rear tires in to the ground.
The lower the antisquat number the more squat your going to create and the more energy you will loose in the suspension.

If your trying to make something hook in the dirt, then yes put a ton of squat in it with a very light long spring in the rear and your shock in the loosest setting. Also put a very light long spring in the front and set your shock to the loosest setting. You will have a ton of weight xfer and not hit the rear tires as hard.

If you want it to work on a good hooking track, react fast on the hit (not have to leave on the 1st yellow) then put some antisquat in that thing and loosen the front only to where you need it. If the track starts going away, loosen up the front some more. If it's still going away, lower your ICG to get some squat in it.