Install advice for 700R4 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

miket · 02-13-2003, 12:20 AM

Can anyone offer advice in swapping the original Turbo 350/400 in a 71 Cheyenne small block to a 700R4?

jays68yak · 02-13-2003, 12:24 AM

Do a search, there is like 20 gabazilllion post on it. Also check the FAQ board.

What type of question do you have?

miket · 02-13-2003, 12:35 AM

Jay,

I am wondering how much of it is bolt in? Will the 700R4 use the same mount locations, do I need to change the tailshaft/housing? Will I need to modify the driveshaft length?

Anything with the electronics regarding the lockup converter or shift mechanism?

jays68yak · 02-13-2003, 12:46 AM

Have you ever changed a transmission before? If so its that easy IMO.
It will use the same yoke as a TH350, but prob will have to shorten the driveshaft.
Youll need new holes for the crossmember.
The electronics are like installing a stereo system.
I just went through this and I dont think it is that hard.
We are always here if you do run into any problems.
Good Luck

K5KRAZIE · 02-13-2003, 03:34 AM

I did this swap in my Blazer a while back It was quite easy. I would think it would be even easer in a 2WD. If you have any questions PM me.
-Aaron

72C10chevy4x4 · 02-13-2003, 09:54 AM

miket, can we assume you have a 2wd? I'm undertaking this swap into my 4x4 and its a little more involved, but for the 2wd its pretty easy. there are three different tailshaft lengths on the 700's, be sure to use the metric bolts when bolting the tranny crossmember to the bottom of the tranny (seems logical doesnt' it!). It seems I've read others have used the longer tailshaft and went to a 1 piece drive shaft. Do a search on '700r4' and 'swap', you'll find a ton of info!

miket · 02-13-2003, 11:44 AM

Thanks everybody. it is a two wheeler...I will do a search and see what I come up with.

mtdave2 · 02-13-2003, 02:18 PM

i say this not to because i hate the 700r4,but rather to try and save you lots of trouble.

the 700r4 is an awsome trany, when it works. the trouble is they are very tempermental. if they are not built and set up just right, they will fail.

so, if you are going to do it, do it right. this means spend the money and get a good one. not one rebuilt by the local shop. unless that shop is known for building the 700r4. if it were me id buy a reall good new one.

then, make sure you get the cv cable EXACTLY correct, might even have a pro set it up or look are yours afterward.. money well spent.

the actual swaping is not a big deal, the only things that are a pain is setting up the speedo, having the drive line shortend, getting a shifter. (i recomend the locar shifter) . the job isnt that bad.

i cant say it enough, get a good trany, this is not the thing to pinch pennys with. do it right at first, or it WILL fail. lol i know trust me!

miket · 02-13-2003, 02:23 PM

MTDave,

This is the kind of information I was looking for. I noticed that Sallee Chevrolet has a GM over the counter 4L60 performance tranny and they have posted the install instructions on the web...very informative...they also have the correct tailshaft housing as well....

The problem is I will probably upgrade the motor at the same time and am leaning heavily in the dierction of the 502/502HP crate motor...needless to say the tranny has to withstand the torque and HP. Not sure even if the 4L60 will bolt up....I assume it will.

With regards to the Lokar shifter, is tehre anyway to use the stock column shift? I am guessing no?

68_c10_on20s · 02-13-2003, 02:33 PM

hey mike if you go with a 4l60e you will need the computer and all the wiring dont go with it go with a 700 if your getting a donor have it built right bullit proof specially for the 502, in my opion the 4ls are weak as **** dont even try it trust me i know ive had to have 2 rebuilt already in stock 350s at 100k wifes tahoe and my truck there sloppy shifters and just plain weak the 700 has been around for awile and are very good if built right just like anything,i also saw you might be getting a 502 ive had my eye on one at my local dealer its an ho with 500 h/p complete there selling it below cost complete with computer and multi port f/i for 6500,man if money grew on trees id have that in my 68 it would be sweet...anyways hope my opion helps ya....Steve

mtdave2 · 02-13-2003, 02:34 PM

glad to see you are on top of this! smart guy! wish i had been.

ya you can use the stock shifter, im not sure of all the particulars but i think you need to repaint the p r d 1 2 3 4 on your indicator. not sure. but one of these guys will know for sure.

i do know they make some 700r4s that are tougher, they even claim you can towe with them. i was looking at one called the raptor
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/700MegaRaptor.htm
(be sure your speakers are turned down. they have a LOUD ass noice on that page!)

i never did get this thing but i should have, looks like its strong. but im not sure. its a rebuild so it did concern me. either way its something for you to look at..

miket · 02-13-2003, 02:45 PM

okay guys now we are getting somewhere...

68C10, is there a webpage regarding this motor you talk of?

MT Dave, thanks I will check it out.

miket · 02-13-2003, 02:50 PM

holy Cow, now I am up to $10 grand just in parts.....

jay6891 · 02-13-2003, 03:11 PM

10,000 in parts, welcome to the world of modifying and rebuild our trucks. What these guys have said is true. I have had 2 700r4's first one a junker, lasted about year and a half. Burnt up bad. My second is still going strong, had it about 2 years . I pull my boat and haul stuff. No problems. Built 350 running best guess, 375 hp.

K5KRAZIE · 02-13-2003, 03:30 PM

One word of advice.......Do NOT use a Raptor trans.

I have a local guy (Kirkland) that built my 700, I have never had a problem with it and it has been through some bad stuff. I took it to Moab and beat the snot out of it, in August no less. The ambant temp. was like 100!

Not even a hiccup. If you would like the stores # I can PM you. They will steer you straight. Just be honest with them and they will build the baddest Trans. you can think of. The guy that does the buildups races with the 700, so he knows all the tricks. The cool thing is if the 700 will not work for you they will give you an alternet, and not try to talk you into anything just give you advice on what will be the best compromise. They are not cheep though so be fore warned.

68_c10_on20s · 02-13-2003, 03:41 PM

actually i pull a 28 ft boat with my 4l60s maybe a reason they both went out,sorry but as far as the site on the 502ho its here in Houston at my fav dealer any chevy dealer should have them and as far as cash goes i got about 12k in my hooptyand it aint even on the road yet so go figure i guess the saying is right (if you wanna play you gotta pay!!!)and as far as the shift linkage and indicater goes i got one with o/d 2 and 1 a 3 speed colum will work with no mods.....Steve....ps here a shot of my high dollar project

mtdave2 · 02-13-2003, 03:55 PM

what have you heard about the raptor? hell , looked good to me, but i havent had any exsperiance with it

K5KRAZIE · 02-13-2003, 04:32 PM

A guy on ColoradoK5 had warrenty issues with them and it really was not a good scene. About 3 units later he is now content.

miket · 02-13-2003, 04:37 PM

68 C10/Steve,

$6500. is cheap for a Ramjet 502...if thats what it is. Who in Texas has it?

smokekiki · 02-13-2003, 05:22 PM

I have a 700r hooked to the stock shifter.With the stock setup you can't manually shift into first.

jays68yak · 02-13-2003, 05:39 PM

I have a auto column and Im using the lokar universal column linkage and I can get it into first.

Lokar also makes an electric indicator to tell you what gear you are in. I think its over $100.

smokekiki · 02-13-2003, 05:50 PM

I will have to get the lokar linkage.Jegs sells the shift indicater it's $92.99

Project1970 · 02-13-2003, 08:24 PM

I can't get into first with my shifter yet, but it's not the linkage that's the problem; the exhaust on my truck was bent when it was a 3-speed manual, and the linkage can't go low enough (the driver's downpipe is in the way).

oldsub86 · 02-14-2003, 10:41 PM

I agree about getting a proper rebuild on a 700R4. I had one in my 86 Suburban and had to get it rebuilt at about 130K miles. I sold the truck at about 183K miles and the tranny needed to be done again. It was not a good rebuild. There is a lot of info out there on the 700R4's. There are a bunch of upgrades that need to be done to ensure that certain parts get proper oiling etc. I also think that some parts between various models are not interchangable. Some parts are more durable than others but you have to use complete assemblies in some cases and not just some of the parts. The 700R4 can be made into a durable transmission but they did not come from the factory in that condition and you need to find a shop that knows its way around them. Transonline.com has a lot of good info on it but you can't get it anymore unless you subscribe. If you have a friend who works in a tranny shop with access who will download it for you it is worth reading. I printed out about 50-75 pages of info on it a couple of years ago when I still had my Suburban and was thinking about trying to rebuild the tranny myself. Didn't do it obviously. Sold the truck and bought a used Toyota 4 Runner. Would still like a new Suburban however.

02-13-2003, 12:20 AM	#1
miket Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Seattle WA Posts: 1,466	Install advice for 700R4 Can anyone offer advice in swapping the original Turbo 350/400 in a 71 Cheyenne small block to a 700R4?

02-13-2003, 12:24 AM	#2
jays68yak Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Gilroy, CA Posts: 1,454	Do a search, there is like 20 gabazilllion post on it. Also check the FAQ board. What type of question do you have? __________________ 1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds. 1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s 1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "

02-13-2003, 12:46 AM	#4
jays68yak Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Gilroy, CA Posts: 1,454	Have you ever changed a transmission before? If so its that easy IMO. It will use the same yoke as a TH350, but prob will have to shorten the driveshaft. Youll need new holes for the crossmember. The electronics are like installing a stereo system. I just went through this and I dont think it is that hard. We are always here if you do run into any problems. Good Luck __________________ 1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds. 1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s 1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "

02-13-2003, 03:34 AM	#5
K5KRAZIE Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Wa. State Posts: 352	I did this swap in my Blazer a while back It was quite easy. I would think it would be even easer in a 2WD. If you have any questions PM me. -Aaron __________________ TRUCKS '72 K5 '06 mega dually

02-13-2003, 02:18 PM	#8
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,521	i say this not to because i hate the 700r4,but rather to try and save you lots of trouble. the 700r4 is an awsome trany, when it works. the trouble is they are very tempermental. if they are not built and set up just right, they will fail. so, if you are going to do it, do it right. this means spend the money and get a good one. not one rebuilt by the local shop. unless that shop is known for building the 700r4. if it were me id buy a reall good new one. then, make sure you get the cv cable EXACTLY correct, might even have a pro set it up or look are yours afterward.. money well spent. the actual swaping is not a big deal, the only things that are a pain is setting up the speedo, having the drive line shortend, getting a shifter. (i recomend the locar shifter) . the job isnt that bad. i cant say it enough, get a good trany, this is not the thing to pinch pennys with. do it right at first, or it WILL fail. lol i know trust me! __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

02-13-2003, 12:35 AM	#3
miket Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Seattle WA Posts: 1,466	Jay, I am wondering how much of it is bolt in? Will the 700R4 use the same mount locations, do I need to change the tailshaft/housing? Will I need to modify the driveshaft length? Anything with the electronics regarding the lockup converter or shift mechanism?

02-13-2003, 09:54 AM	#6
72C10chevy4x4 UK Wildcat Fan! Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Dover, DE Posts: 515	miket, can we assume you have a 2wd? I'm undertaking this swap into my 4x4 and its a little more involved, but for the 2wd its pretty easy. there are three different tailshaft lengths on the 700's, be sure to use the metric bolts when bolting the tranny crossmember to the bottom of the tranny (seems logical doesnt' it!). It seems I've read others have used the longer tailshaft and went to a 1 piece drive shaft. Do a search on '700r4' and 'swap', you'll find a ton of info!

02-13-2003, 11:44 AM	#7
miket Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Seattle WA Posts: 1,466	Thanks everybody. it is a two wheeler...I will do a search and see what I come up with.

02-13-2003, 02:23 PM	#9
miket Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Seattle WA Posts: 1,466	MTDave, This is the kind of information I was looking for. I noticed that Sallee Chevrolet has a GM over the counter 4L60 performance tranny and they have posted the install instructions on the web...very informative...they also have the correct tailshaft housing as well.... The problem is I will probably upgrade the motor at the same time and am leaning heavily in the dierction of the 502/502HP crate motor...needless to say the tranny has to withstand the torque and HP. Not sure even if the 4L60 will bolt up....I assume it will. With regards to the Lokar shifter, is tehre anyway to use the stock column shift? I am guessing no?

02-13-2003, 02:33 PM	#10
68_c10_on20s Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Waxahachie TX Posts: 773	tranny hey mike if you go with a 4l60e you will need the computer and all the wiring dont go with it go with a 700 if your getting a donor have it built right bullit proof specially for the 502, in my opion the 4ls are weak as **** dont even try it trust me i know ive had to have 2 rebuilt already in stock 350s at 100k wifes tahoe and my truck there sloppy shifters and just plain weak the 700 has been around for awile and are very good if built right just like anything,i also saw you might be getting a 502 ive had my eye on one at my local dealer its an ho with 500 h/p complete there selling it below cost complete with computer and multi port f/i for 6500,man if money grew on trees id have that in my 68 it would be sweet...anyways hope my opion helps ya....Steve

02-13-2003, 02:34 PM	#11
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,521	glad to see you are on top of this! smart guy! wish i had been. ya you can use the stock shifter, im not sure of all the particulars but i think you need to repaint the p r d 1 2 3 4 on your indicator. not sure. but one of these guys will know for sure. i do know they make some 700r4s that are tougher, they even claim you can towe with them. i was looking at one called the raptor http://www.transmissioncenter.net/700MegaRaptor.htm (be sure your speakers are turned down. they have a LOUD ass noice on that page!) i never did get this thing but i should have, looks like its strong. but im not sure. its a rebuild so it did concern me. either way its something for you to look at.. __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

02-13-2003, 02:45 PM	#12
miket Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Seattle WA Posts: 1,466	okay guys now we are getting somewhere... 68C10, is there a webpage regarding this motor you talk of? MT Dave, thanks I will check it out.

02-13-2003, 02:50 PM	#13
miket Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Seattle WA Posts: 1,466	holy Cow, now I am up to $10 grand just in parts.....

02-13-2003, 03:11 PM	#14
jay6891 Car Knocker Join Date: May 2001 Location: jefferson,arkansas Posts: 664	10,000 in parts, welcome to the world of modifying and rebuild our trucks. What these guys have said is true. I have had 2 700r4's first one a junker, lasted about year and a half. Burnt up bad. My second is still going strong, had it about 2 years . I pull my boat and haul stuff. No problems. Built 350 running best guess, 375 hp. __________________ 68 c-10,91 sportside bed,350 .030 over,4 bolt,10-1 comp,2.05 intake/1.94 exhaust,1.6 Harland Sharp roller rockers,edelbrock rpm cam and intake w/750 carb, 700r4, 3.73 gears,Jacabbs Electronic Igntion w/Accel HEI distributer and super coil. ZR-1 roll pan, filled tailights. Blazer tank. Hidden hitch. 2 1/2" Flowmaster 40's. Parts bought but not installed>> ford 9" posi with disc. CCP front and rear lowering kit 4/5. Cab corners,foor boards,rockers, cab braces, Phatom grill, Painless wiring kit.

02-13-2003, 03:30 PM	#15
K5KRAZIE Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Wa. State Posts: 352	One word of advice.......Do NOT use a Raptor trans. I have a local guy (Kirkland) that built my 700, I have never had a problem with it and it has been through some bad stuff. I took it to Moab and beat the snot out of it, in August no less. The ambant temp. was like 100! Not even a hiccup. If you would like the stores # I can PM you. They will steer you straight. Just be honest with them and they will build the baddest Trans. you can think of. The guy that does the buildups races with the 700, so he knows all the tricks. The cool thing is if the 700 will not work for you they will give you an alternet, and not try to talk you into anything just give you advice on what will be the best compromise. They are not cheep though so be fore warned. __________________ TRUCKS '72 K5 '06 mega dually



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

02-13-2003, 03:41 PM	#16
68_c10_on20s Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Waxahachie TX Posts: 773	700??? actually i pull a 28 ft boat with my 4l60s maybe a reason they both went out,sorry but as far as the site on the 502ho its here in Houston at my fav dealer any chevy dealer should have them and as far as cash goes i got about 12k in my hooptyand it aint even on the road yet so go figure i guess the saying is right (if you wanna play you gotta pay!!!)and as far as the shift linkage and indicater goes i got one with o/d 2 and 1 a 3 speed colum will work with no mods.....Steve....ps here a shot of my high dollar project Attached Images

02-13-2003, 03:55 PM	#17
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,521	what have you heard about the raptor? hell , looked good to me, but i havent had any exsperiance with it __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

02-13-2003, 04:32 PM	#18
K5KRAZIE Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Wa. State Posts: 352	A guy on ColoradoK5 had warrenty issues with them and it really was not a good scene. About 3 units later he is now content. __________________ TRUCKS '72 K5 '06 mega dually

02-13-2003, 04:37 PM	#19
miket Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Seattle WA Posts: 1,466	68 C10/Steve, $6500. is cheap for a Ramjet 502...if thats what it is. Who in Texas has it?

02-13-2003, 05:22 PM	#20
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,474	I have a 700r hooked to the stock shifter.With the stock setup you can't manually shift into first. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

02-13-2003, 05:39 PM	#21
jays68yak Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Gilroy, CA Posts: 1,454	I have a auto column and Im using the lokar universal column linkage and I can get it into first. Lokar also makes an electric indicator to tell you what gear you are in. I think its over $100. __________________ 1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds. 1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s 1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "

02-13-2003, 05:50 PM	#22
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,474	I will have to get the lokar linkage.Jegs sells the shift indicater it's $92.99 __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

02-13-2003, 08:24 PM	#23
Project1970 14.1 @ 96MPH Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 2,811	I can't get into first with my shifter yet, but it's not the linkage that's the problem; the exhaust on my truck was bent when it was a 3-speed manual, and the linkage can't go low enough (the driver's downpipe is in the way). __________________ Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!

02-14-2003, 10:41 PM	#24
oldsub86 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 695	I agree about getting a proper rebuild on a 700R4. I had one in my 86 Suburban and had to get it rebuilt at about 130K miles. I sold the truck at about 183K miles and the tranny needed to be done again. It was not a good rebuild. There is a lot of info out there on the 700R4's. There are a bunch of upgrades that need to be done to ensure that certain parts get proper oiling etc. I also think that some parts between various models are not interchangable. Some parts are more durable than others but you have to use complete assemblies in some cases and not just some of the parts. The 700R4 can be made into a durable transmission but they did not come from the factory in that condition and you need to find a shop that knows its way around them. Transonline.com has a lot of good info on it but you can't get it anymore unless you subscribe. If you have a friend who works in a tranny shop with access who will download it for you it is worth reading. I printed out about 50-75 pages of info on it a couple of years ago when I still had my Suburban and was thinking about trying to rebuild the tranny myself. Didn't do it obviously. Sold the truck and bought a used Toyota 4 Runner. Would still like a new Suburban however. __________________ 1968 Chevy - 292 with a powerglide Last edited by oldsub86; 02-14-2003 at 10:48 PM.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.