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Old 02-13-2003, 05:04 PM   #1
Myride67c10
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Blue Smoke?

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't blue smoke usally meen you rings are going. My truck has been blowing blue smoke when it take it in to higher RPM's. Is there anything I can do to help this problem go away?
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:46 PM   #2
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I thought so. Maybe a better oil could preserve your truck for a short time. But if your rings are toast you have no choice but to rebuild.
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Old 02-13-2003, 06:02 PM   #3
Myride67c10
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Well thats what i figured. Anybody got any idea's on were to get a remanufactured 283 long block?
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Old 02-13-2003, 06:16 PM   #4
mtdave2
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blue smoke is oil, as you know,
smoke on acceleration= rings.
deceleration = valve guides =)

dont know about the longblock!
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Old 02-13-2003, 08:26 PM   #5
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I doubt you'll find a 283 anywhere without a premium price tag (for those guys doing 100-point restorations). You can get a 350 longblock from GM that's good for at least 220hp out of the crate for $1400 complete with a warranty...either 36kmi or 50kmi.
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Old 02-13-2003, 08:38 PM   #6
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I recommend a rebuild but do it yourself.

rebuilds are easy and cheap. Go to the scoggin dickey website (yellow performance people) but one of thier rotating assemblies and take your block to the local machinist. The rotating assembly comes with rings bearing blah blah everyuthing. Even Fle-Pro gaskets for about 375 bucks. You could even get a 30 over kit and have the block bored 30 by the machinist but taht costs a bit more for machine work. I suggest have the block hot tanked and blue printed and polished as neccesary. Lifter bore polishing is worth 20hp and a new taper job on cylinder walls is instant power. Buy a book find a good friend (the machinist maybe?) who knows how to do this stuff that right near by and consult him or the book when yuo run into a stump.

If you really wanna be trick, buy a 283 rotating assembly with flat top pistons and find a pre 68 327 block to bolt it into. Use your 283 heads or find some power packs, make 10.0:1.0 compression. Then you have a Chevy 302 the famous 9000 rpms trans am race winner motor.
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Old 02-13-2003, 08:57 PM   #7
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Short stoke / big bore motors are screamin SOB's.....but best left to lite cars. the 301 (same as the factory 302), was a .125 overbore & special pistons in a 283. It could also be done with a 327 block(67 or older,sj), & a 283 crank. My bet is you will play hell finding flattop pistons for that combo......they had domes on them! for the truck, there is no substitute for cubes. Unless you are doing a correct resto, that crate 350 isnt a bad deal for the money......crazyL
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Old 02-13-2003, 08:59 PM   #8
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LUCKY US

scoggins sells balanced rotating assemblies for 283's with flat top hyperuetectic pistons for $400

if you want lots of power cheap buy a mopar and put any big blcok in it or buy a 454. For 3500 you can build top to bottom a 200,000 mile 500 hp 440. for 1750 you can build a 200,000 mile 320 hp 440 for 4000 you can build a 400hp 454.

That custom fabricated 302 has style when you show an tell cubes or not that 302 is impressive and they sound bad a$$.

If you want a 350 find a low miles junkyard 93-98 350. They are good motors 93-95 is 9.4:1 compression an with stock drive train in my 70 swb step it lit the tires al the way in first and barked beggingin of second. 96-98 is vortec, phenomonal power for a LONG time. i have seen those motors go 300k from teh factory with regular maintenance. a motor like that runs you about 1k and leaves 200 worth of intake to sell.

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Old 02-13-2003, 09:11 PM   #9
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Jackal.... a balanced rotating assy for a 283 will not make a 302. The 283 is a 3 7/8 bore, & the 302 is 4". MOPAR...WTF is that? dude, we are Chev guys here.....or anything GM is game! (Olds, Cad,Poncho,Buford.......but NOT mopar!) crazyL
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Old 02-13-2003, 09:21 PM   #10
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a 283 rotating assembly in a 327 ( 4") blcok is a 302 you have a 3.00" stroke by 4.00" bore with a 2.1" rod journal and 2.3" main cap journal its totally interchangeable as long as you use a pre 68 327 block


Everyone knows mopar 440 is the best stroke/bore ratio for a production block at THAT PARTICULAR cubic inch. The chevy 502 is a fixed(raised cam positioning to re-angle stroke for length) 454 to have the same bore/stroke as the mopar 440 happened to have. The Chevy 302 the only motor i trulyback with all confidence on its racing potential also has a perfect bore/stroke ratio. And yes it is proven that there is a prefect bore/stroke ratio just like theres a perfect angle to launch projectiles from (45 degrees ALWAYs for max range with least power). No V motor made today has a bore/stroke different from the other unless its a special purpose motor.

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Old 02-13-2003, 09:32 PM   #11
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a balanced 283 rotating assy with hyperutectic pistons is a freakin 283! i just listed the bores & strokes....so Im not confussed! as far as the MOPAR, I would run 1 in my MOPAR......but i damn sure wont crucify my truck that way! Also, I wont tell somebody to put a short stroke 9000 rpm eng in a 4000 lb truck.....it dont work , unless you are running a 1/4 mile at a time with 5.38 screws! crazyL
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Old 02-13-2003, 09:41 PM   #12
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no dont put a mopar in a chevy keep black with black white with white (just color coding no racial remark intended)
Next, if a stock 283 with an intake and carb lets a 4750 lb chevelle run 14's why won't the truck? Better yet if a 95 stock daily driver lwb extendcab truk runs 12's with a naturally aspirated 302 redlining at a moderate 6500rpms and wieghing 5000 lbs gross why wont someones 4000lbs 70 chevy do the same or better with thier trailing arm, coil, rear suspension and 3.73 gears?
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Old 02-13-2003, 09:55 PM   #13
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check the specks in my sig......if that combo makes a mid 13 sec 1/4 mi run on my 4000 lb truck.....ill be doing good . A stock 283 wont even get close to a 14 sec run in a chevelle..... or was that 1/8mile?...........crazy Longhorn
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Old 02-13-2003, 10:04 PM   #14
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the chevelle was a 67 2 door malibu with a stock 283 (this year had powerpack heads) it had tunnelram and 2 holley 550 2 barrels with a set of headers that dumped striaght out when drag racing.
Advance the timing to 15 degrees btdc at idle and it sounds like a crisscraft boat. It ran on 107 pump gas in 1973 at a dragstrip south of austin. and wnet through the traps at 110 mph in 14.57 seconds.
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Old 02-13-2003, 10:16 PM   #15
crazy longhorn
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PLONK!
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Old 02-14-2003, 10:18 AM   #16
Myride67c10
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Thanks for all the replys. As for a MOPAR motor no thank you. I bought a Chevy. The problem that I'm having is that I just moved here and I'm not set up to build a motor here yet. I don't want to put a 350 in it because I'm sure I can get more RPM's with the 283 minus the torgue the 350 has. I guess I'm going to have to see if there is anybody around here that I can take my motor to in order for them to re-build it with the parts I want. Any recommendations on a good cam? I don't plan on towing much and it is my daily driver which gets driven about 30 miles a day on the interstate. I would like to get the best possible MPG's as I can. Any suggestions would be helpful.
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Old 02-14-2003, 10:43 AM   #17
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You want to be carefull not to go too big on the cam for a smaller cube , daily driver. I would try to keep the dur @ .050 to about 210-212 max for a little perf, or a little less on the intake side if milege is more the concern. I like 283s, & have run a .060 over, cammed up ,with fuelie heads,headers, & dp carb......you couldnt haul or tow with it(no power below 3500). from 3500 to about 6800 that little booger ran like stink......but would have been more fun in a Nova, or a vega than it was in my 71 c10. good luck,crazyL
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Old 02-14-2003, 10:46 AM   #18
Myride67c10
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Thanks crazy, I'm guessing the cam I have in it now is not all that great I seem to only be geeting about 5,000 rpm's out of it now but I belive it's the stock motor and has never been rebuilt. By the way does that sound right?
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Old 02-14-2003, 11:01 AM   #19
crazy longhorn
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Thats probably about right for a stocker. my .060 over 283 got a cam change when I was doing a lot of hyway driving. The L79 vette cam cam out, & a stock 350 cam went in(GM fact cam, .390/.410 lift). the carb was also changed to a spreadbore. it still had th fuelie heads,&ran pretty good to the 5000-5500 range, & got decent milage. GM # on the cam was 3896929......390/.410 lift, 195/202 dur@ .050. You can probably find something on the order of a small rv cam that will give a little better perf(cam profiles are a lot better today than 20yrs ago). I think the biggest improvement on the 283 came from the bigger vale "fuelie " heads, & the 4 brl carb......headers & duals didnt hurt either. Good luck.....crazyL
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