06-05-2010, 12:48 PM | #1 |
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Ball Joint Install
OK two questions, First what is your guys' opinion is the easiest way to remove the rivets from the upper ball joint (upper control arm is detached)? Second how do you press the new lower ball joint into the lower arm (Is there a special tool or technique)?
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06-05-2010, 01:14 PM | #2 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
i grind to heads off and use a punch to drive out the rivets// i have a cheap ball joint press that i got many years ago from jcwhitney
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
06-05-2010, 01:45 PM | #3 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
can't you stick the ball joint in the arm and pull it thru with a nut?
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Kurt - '68 GMC short step - NIB '09 LY6 6.0L crate motor w/mods, NIB '12 crate 4L85e w/billet 3k stall Circle D, 3.73 posi 12 bolt, DynaTech f-swap headers, 3/4 drop, handling mods, etc. - my toy '72 Chevy LWB C-10 Highlander - 350/350 ps/pb/tilt/ac - not original but close '06 Chevy TrailBlazerSS - LS2/4L70e - little black hot rod SUV - my DD '18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver '95 Chevy S10 - reg cab shortbed, LS, 4.3, auto... my '68's powertrain and chassis build -links broken A surprise phase - carb to efi -links broken |
06-05-2010, 03:38 PM | #4 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
grind the rivots out of the upper and then bolt the new ones in. the lower, you hammer the old out and hammer the new in from the bottom. takes lots of hits with a sledge hammer. then screw in the grease fitting. if you are lowering it alot then make sure you cut/grind the bumpstop bracket off the lower so you dont have to wrestle with it later.
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06-05-2010, 03:57 PM | #5 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
I drilled the rivets out on the upper ball joint and I haven't replaced the lower one yet but I don't like the idea of beating the new lower one in with a hammer. I will use a hyd. press when I do my lower one's. JMO
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1969 Chevy SWB Big Block - Under the knife as of 12/26/2011 1989 Chevy Silverado, 4X4 - Daily Driver 1996 Chevy Suburban K1500 - 4-Wheeler, Campin Truck 1968 Chevrolet Impala Sport Coupe - 327/350hp, TH400, all original. Members I've met: BamaBaxter, My Build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=500359 |
06-05-2010, 05:51 PM | #6 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
Ok got the rivets out of the upper joint hour plus of grinding/ drilling lol. I called autozone and they rent a ball joint press I am guessing this will work for installing the lowers? Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!
Last edited by rennalds; 06-05-2010 at 05:51 PM. |
06-06-2010, 04:39 AM | #7 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
a propane torch has always made removing the lowers alot easier.
they seem to "slide" right out after heating them up, (with the special removal tool of course) Last edited by beebster; 06-06-2010 at 04:40 AM. |
06-06-2010, 08:01 AM | #8 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
when installing top balljoints the bolts go up the nut is on top//if you install with screws pointing down it wont work
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
06-06-2010, 09:51 AM | #9 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
I have installed lowers on the truck, by jacking the lower control arm up a bit,put the ball joint in place, put a solid piece of metal under the joint,lower the arm down on it,then smacking the arm to press the joint in place. If you smack up on the joint, the spring takes all the force, and it won't go in. Ask me how I know this! Lol
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06-06-2010, 09:54 AM | #10 | |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
Quote:
I've used the rental tool before and it works ok if the ball joints are standard and not oversize. Now for $10 each I just drop the arms and ball joints at the machine shop and pick them up later all done. Last edited by 71tahoe; 06-06-2010 at 05:30 PM. |
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06-06-2010, 02:06 PM | #11 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
...and why I bought a 12 ton press.
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Kurt - '68 GMC short step - NIB '09 LY6 6.0L crate motor w/mods, NIB '12 crate 4L85e w/billet 3k stall Circle D, 3.73 posi 12 bolt, DynaTech f-swap headers, 3/4 drop, handling mods, etc. - my toy '72 Chevy LWB C-10 Highlander - 350/350 ps/pb/tilt/ac - not original but close '06 Chevy TrailBlazerSS - LS2/4L70e - little black hot rod SUV - my DD '18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver '95 Chevy S10 - reg cab shortbed, LS, 4.3, auto... my '68's powertrain and chassis build -links broken A surprise phase - carb to efi -links broken |
06-30-2010, 05:38 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
Quote:
Second, if we get ready to press the old out (C-clamp style or hydraulic...which is best?), are there bolts/snap rings to worry about first and reinstall after pressing new ones in? Thanks in advance. Mark
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Mark 57 Austin Healey 3000 (sold many moons ago, unfortunately) 67 C10 (in progress, son's) w/ 1993 350 SBC, '96 Vortec heads (custom polished ports), EPS Performer intake, Holley carb, cam, MSD ignition 93 C4 Corvette (mostly done, son's) |
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06-30-2010, 06:50 PM | #13 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
lower bjoints just press out and in nothing else involved
as far as wear you just do visual inspection and grab wheel and push and shove to check for free play or slop to see if they r needed
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
06-30-2010, 07:27 PM | #14 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
Thanks. If there is no obvious play, can it be possible that a '67 with original ball joints would NOT need replacement yet?
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Mark 57 Austin Healey 3000 (sold many moons ago, unfortunately) 67 C10 (in progress, son's) w/ 1993 350 SBC, '96 Vortec heads (custom polished ports), EPS Performer intake, Holley carb, cam, MSD ignition 93 C4 Corvette (mostly done, son's) |
07-01-2010, 06:40 PM | #15 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
Lets do the math 2010 - 1967 = 43 year old ball joint. If you have it apart why would you not replace them?
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07-01-2010, 06:46 PM | #16 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
I agree 100%. I'm getting ready to replace my suspension, front and rear, I'm replacing every wear part whether it needs it or not. I want to do it once and not have to to worry about it. Ball Joints are a no brainer though.
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07-06-2010, 09:19 PM | #17 |
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Re: Ball Joint Install
Agreed. We came to the same conclusion. The BJs were a pain to get out, but the hard part is done, now.
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Mark 57 Austin Healey 3000 (sold many moons ago, unfortunately) 67 C10 (in progress, son's) w/ 1993 350 SBC, '96 Vortec heads (custom polished ports), EPS Performer intake, Holley carb, cam, MSD ignition 93 C4 Corvette (mostly done, son's) |
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