71 C-10 5.3L swap questions

[smokinstang70]

I am starting my first LSX swap... I have a 71 c-10 that I am putting a 2006 5.3L (DBW) motor and 4L60E tans in. I have all the brackets, adapters, etc etc... but I still need help on the harness. I would like to mod the factory harness as I don't have the money for a standalone.

First few questions are...

1. do I need any of the 4 O2 sensors? I was going to remove all the wiring as I plan on it being non-emissions when I reprogram the PCM.

2. Does anyone have a list of wires that can be removed?

3. I am going with a Vintage Air AC system... do I need to keep the a/c wiring in my harness or will the new Vintage Air harness take care of everything that is needed?

4. Any additional advice... lessons learned... etc will be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks again.

[oteixeira]

ls1tech.com :-)

For me, I am keeping the front 2 O2 sensors, removing the rear 2. The computer was programmed with the following:

no VATS
no rear O2
no Cats

tune, I cant remember the rest. Mine is also a DBW 5.3 out of an 05 Silverado. I am not using the computerized stuff for the A/C (I went hot rod air, they are now out of business). You can do it all separate if you get the right switch for the compressor.

Orlando

[Clyde65]

As said previously, use the front O2's, with the aftermarket air, dont use the PCM to control it, just set it up like the AC instructions say, the PCM will detect the pull on the motor and adj the idle for you.

For the tune, contact Jesse at wait4me performance, it is under $100.00 for a stock tune. If you want a performance tune, look on ls1tech.com.

[junkman]

ls1tech conversions and hybrids section has all you need to know and then some. You can ditch everything emissions, rear o2's, a/c, and more. If its pink it goes to switched, black ground, and orange, constant. Are you planning to keep the e-tb, or swap to cable?

[smokinstang70]

thanks guys... I'll check it out

Keeping the DBW... have the TAC module and pedal assembly

Keep the info coming!!!!

[eagleuh1]

Get an account at AllDataDIY.com for your wiring pinouts and plug pinouts etc. Best money I ever spent. Didn't have to sit and wait for responces on forums to my gazillion questions about whats this wire go to, or whats this plug for. Also, print out the wiring diagrams and pinout prints and plug diagrams and make a binder to keep with the truck, so when one of those gazillion questions comes up, you ain't got to go run and turn the computer on, you can sit right at your truck and scratch your head there for hours on end. Good luck with yours, I'm in final stages of my 2nd LS transplant into a 68 C20. It's well worth the effort. Trying to decide if I want to clean up my harness now or wait till after I finish building my house. Can't handle to many headaches at once. LOL. Also, theres a member here selling a set of DT headers. thought you might be interested. I like the fit and finish on mine. Again good luck and enjoy the build. I f any questions, send me a messege or ask one of the many here doing the swap.

[Ackattack]

check out this website: http://www.lt1swap.com

it has a lot of the info you asked about.

I used a fuse block from current performance that made things very easy. I'm using an Old Air setup and I connected the A/C switch to my fuse block, which is also tied into the electric fans.

Also, I made a write up of how to connect up cruise control if you use a digital dakota turn signal switch.

Good luck, it's worth it, and really not that hard!

[Shon]

I am using Current Performance Fuse/Relay set up and did not cut any of my harness (yet).
I can help you with the PCM tuning if you want.
Front o2s only. If you want the MAF you can do that, i run mine in Speed Density with no MAF.

[Jim_D]

I'd use Jim's performance...

-performance tune
-6500 rpm rev limiter
-delete evap
-delete rear o2's
-delete EGR
-delete cats
-radiator fan control
-delete VATS
-delete torque management
-delete abuse mode
-program for MAF sensor

[Clyde65]

Nelson Performance!

[Shon]

Herron Performance!!

Originally Posted by Shon

I am using Current Performance Fuse/Relay set up and did not cut any of my harness (yet).
I can help you with the PCM tuning if you want.
Front o2s only. If you want the MAF you can do that, i run mine in Speed Density with no MAF.

[Ackattack]

Another option for tuning that I suggest is get your own copy of HPtuner, then you can do your own tune and tweaks as you need to.

To initially get the truck running, there isn't really any "tuning" necessary. Mainly just turn off the VATS. Then you can just turn off all of the emissions crap you don't need.

[smokinstang70]

ok guys... did a ton of research and planning this weekend. I a few questions to ask you before I move forward.

I have made a list of all the "Black Boxes" the factory harness touches.. from the tac module, to the coils, to the injectors, to the fuse block.. etc etc...

... What I don't know is what do I need to keep and what can I get rid of... I know from previous answers that I need the 1st set of O2 sensors, but what other wiring can I get rid of?

the areas I have the most concern are...
1. Body Control Module - located below steering column - What is it? Do I need it?

2. Anti-lock brake wiring?

3. Electronic suspension system?

4. Engine Oil level switch?

5. Engine coolant temperature sensor?

6. Fuel Tank pressure sensor

7. Engine oil pressure sensor - I was going to run a mechanical oil pressure guage

8. Evaporative emissions canister purge solenoid

9. Evaporative emissions canister vent solenoid

10. Vehicle speed sensor

11. Fuel Composition Sensor - (flex fuel)

12. Automatic transmission input shaft speed sensor- I think this is only for 4L80E transmissions... I'm running a 4L60E

... what I am trying to determine is what can I get rid of and what do I need to keep. I am going to run vintage air, but I want to keet that independant. I am going to run a rear mounted fuel tank with internal EFI pump.

On the pinout sheet I have for a 2006 5.3l... what is the Left I/P fuse block?

Also, how do i tell if my motor is a Flex Fuel motor? do i need to keep any wiring associated with that?

How do I tell if it has active fuel management? do i need any wiring associated with that? Can I disable that?

As always any insight, suggestion, and advice you guys can offer... I'll take.

Thanks again... I would just go out and buy a stand alone engine harness, but I just don't have the funds to do that... so a factory harness mod is my only option.

[Shon]

Why worry with deleting the wiring for what you dont need? is it a show truck? if so, I can understand but if just a driver then leave it....you will take alot of time and not really gain alot, IMO.

Dont need the BCM, need to have VATS removed from PCM.
ABS is a different 'box' you do not need.
Electronic suspension you will not need/use.
Oil level switch, it is in the side of pan, dont really need. oil pressure switch on back of block at intake, dont need either.
Fuel tank stuff is usually removed, unless you want to get nutty and make the stuff work for flex fuel then you can try to get that stuff working. I would delete and run regular stuff.
EVAP stuff REMOVE.
You do need the VSS if you are using the electronic transmission.
Are you running an 4l60e with a 4l60e PCM?

Originally Posted by smokinstang70

ok guys... did a ton of research and planning this weekend. I a few questions to ask you before I move forward.

I have made a list of all the "Black Boxes" the factory harness touches.. from the tac module, to the coils, to the injectors, to the fuse block.. etc etc...

... What I don't know is what do I need to keep and what can I get rid of... I know from previous answers that I need the 1st set of O2 sensors, but what other wiring can I get rid of?

the areas I have the most concern are...
1. Body Control Module - located below steering column - What is it? Do I need it?

2. Anti-lock brake wiring?

3. Electronic suspension system?

4. Engine Oil level switch?

5. Engine coolant temperature sensor?

6. Fuel Tank pressure sensor

7. Engine oil pressure sensor - I was going to run a mechanical oil pressure guage

8. Evaporative emissions canister purge solenoid

9. Evaporative emissions canister vent solenoid

10. Vehicle speed sensor

11. Fuel Composition Sensor - (flex fuel)

12. Automatic transmission input shaft speed sensor- I think this is only for 4L80E transmissions... I'm running a 4L60E

... what I am trying to determine is what can I get rid of and what do I need to keep. I am going to run vintage air, but I want to keet that independant. I am going to run a rear mounted fuel tank with internal EFI pump.

On the pinout sheet I have for a 2006 5.3l... what is the Left I/P fuse block?

Also, how do i tell if my motor is a Flex Fuel motor? do i need to keep any wiring associated with that?

How do I tell if it has active fuel management? do i need any wiring associated with that? Can I disable that?

As always any insight, suggestion, and advice you guys can offer... I'll take.

Thanks again... I would just go out and buy a stand alone engine harness, but I just don't have the funds to do that... so a factory harness mod is my only option.

[Clyde65]

Shon, inform me of your tuning expertise and charges please.

[smokinstang70]

I have a 2006 5.3 and mating 4L60E... I have the PCM out of the same truck.

The truck is a daily driver... just thought I would pull the unused wires to help clean it up.

I have the engine harness and the chassis harness but I don't have the cab harness... where do I find the connector and wiring for the pedal?

THANKS FOR THE INFO... KEEP IT COMING!!!

[eagleuh1]

I think Current performance can make you one if you can't find one at a salvage yard. Pretty available at the yards I go too. Talking about pedal harness. You also want to keep the temp sensor for the pcm to work right. A temp sender goes in the passenger head for a guage, or you can use a 98 F body 3 prong sender/sensor for both. 2 prongs go to sensor for PCM, 1 for sender for guage. I used an extra connector to wire mine up.I/P is inside passenger compartment. U/H is under hood fuse panel, which is the big block that has all the engine fuses and relays. I used this for my conversion. Makes it easy to wire up. Good luck.

[rob32472]

pm 68shortstep he can mod your harness and he knows is stuff..... mine fired up with zero problems DBW and all.......

[trusty72]

Fyi the reason you need the front o2's is because the computer wouldnt know how to adjust fuel curve without a percent reading from the sensors. it would run in limp mode.

[Shon]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Shon, inform me of your tuning expertise and charges please.

I started tuning over 10yrs ago with the LT1 PCM and moved to the LS1 once HPTuners came out and have been tuning both
LSx and LTx with great success. You can do a google search on Shon Herron or Herron Performance to get feed back on me.

Street tunes begin at $250 and dyno tuning usually runs $500-$600.

Depending on mods I can do mail order tuning as well.

Just depends on what the customer needs.

[Shon]

Originally Posted by trusty72

Fyi the reason you need the front o2's is because the computer wouldnt know how to adjust fuel curve without a percent reading from the sensors. it would run in limp mode.

unless you set it up to run Open Loop then you do not need the O2s.
I run my truck in Speed Density and closed loop.

[6D8_C10]

Originally Posted by Shon

unless you set it up to run Open Loop then you do not need the O2s.
I run my truck in Speed Density and closed loop.

Hey Shon, for us EFI-ingnorant, can you explain what it means or takes to make it a closed loop speed density system?

[6D8_C10]

Originally Posted by Shon

unless you set it up to run Open Loop then you do not need the O2s.
I run my truck in Speed Density and closed loop.

Hey Shon, for us EFI-ignorant guys, tell us what it takes to make a closed loop speed density system out of the LSx engines?

[Shon]

Originally Posted by 6D8_C10

Hey Shon, for us EFI-ignorant guys, tell us what it takes to make a closed loop speed density system out of the LSx engines?

Open loop means no feed back is used from the O2s, this happens in all EFIs at first start up and is based on engine temp and time.
Speed density is not using the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). It takes IAT (inlet air temp) and MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and estimates the air being pulled into the system. SD uses the VE tables exclusively.

A stock motor uses all of these systems together. First start up is in OL, then once a temp and time has been met it goes to CL and uses the Short Term Fuel Trims and the Long term fuel trims to control AFR around a stoich point set it the PCM. And the MAF is used in conjuction with the VE tables, depending on how this is set up it is a hybrid set up in stock form.

This is over simplified for sure....

[6D8_C10]

Originally Posted by Shon

Open loop means no feed back is used from the O2s, this happens in all EFIs at first start up and is based on engine temp and time.
Speed density is not using the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). It takes IAT (inlet air temp) and MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and estimates the air being pulled into the system. SD uses the VE tables exclusively.

A stock motor uses all of these systems together. First start up is in OL, then once a temp and time has been met it goes to CL and uses the Short Term Fuel Trims and the Long term fuel trims to control AFR around a stoich point set it the PCM. And the MAF is used in conjuction with the VE tables, depending on how this is set up it is a hybrid set up in stock form.

This is over simplified for sure....

No Im getting it. It sound like a lot of tuning on the computer to change it from Open to Closed loop system.