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Old 06-11-2010, 01:15 PM   #1
62 Bowtie
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Yet another front Crossmember Question

I'm gonna do the front suspension swap crossmember and all. I've seen several good candidates at local wrecking yards, now rather than spending half a day trying to remove it I wanna cut the frame but they won't allow torches or gas powered tools was thinking a batt operated sawzall but those dont seem strong enough to cut the frame any suggestions?
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:30 PM   #2
markeb01
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

You might want to try a different yard if there are any others to choose from. When I bought the 1975 front suspension for my 1960, somebody from the yard pulled around in a boom truck, chained up the crossmember and sliced it off with a torch in about 5 minutes or less. Drove the truck out front and lowered the clip into my pickup for $75. It sure made it easier to move around being in one piece with wheels on it.



I suppose it can be done, but I can't imagine removing the crossmember in the yard by hand. Besides, if you can get the frame rails foward of the firewall with the suspension attached, the frame will provide a template on where to drill the holes for the later design idler arm and brake hoses, along with all the bolts and which holes they go in. And it may also come with a sway bar.

As for cutting the frame yourself, even if you can bring something strong enough to do the job, it could be scary dangerous without enough equipment to manage each half of the truck when the last cut is made.
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:34 PM   #3
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

they wont allow torches in many yards around here. the easiest way to do it would be to jack up the front of the truck, then use jy tires/rims to block up the frame, then start cutting, the 18v dewalts etc, are plenty powerful to cut the frame .

best of luck.
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:40 PM   #4
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

Thanks for the pic Mark thats what i want to do guess I'll have to find a good cordless I've checked rental yards they dont rent them maybe have to buy one, damm the good ones are expensive.
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:45 PM   #5
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

If you want to come get a front end up here in the SF Bay Area, I have an 18 volt sawzall and 7 bat, let me know, I go to the yards all the time too
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:49 PM   #6
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

if you have a couple of new hacksaw blades, you could cut the frame manually as well with a hacksaw.... you could get your front end , and a work out at the same time. ask the yard they may have a cordless tool available, run the scenario by them and see how they respond...
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67 truck build:

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Old 06-11-2010, 05:21 PM   #7
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugeyev8 View Post
If you want to come get a front end up here in the SF Bay Area, I have an 18 volt sawzall and 7 bat, let me know, I go to the yards all the time too
Let me know if you see any 71-72 coil spring rear ends.
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Old 06-11-2010, 05:44 PM   #8
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

I cut one off with a sawzall two weeks ago at the junk yard and it only took a couple of minutes per cut. Make sure you bring enough batteries and some new blades.
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Old 06-11-2010, 07:14 PM   #9
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugeyev8 View Post
If you want to come get a front end up here in the SF Bay Area, I have an 18 volt sawzall and 7 bat, let me know, I go to the yards all the time too
Thanks for offering Bugeye, I went out and bought one so I'm ready to rock
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Old 06-11-2010, 07:17 PM   #10
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

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I cut one off with a sawzall two weeks ago at the junk yard and it only took a couple of minutes per cut. Make sure you bring enough batteries and some new blades.
Well I bought one extra batt. How many did you use, and how many blades?
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Old 06-11-2010, 08:11 PM   #11
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

Remember not to let the blade go full speed. Cut slowly and the blade will last alot longer. When you create heat the blade goes dull. You could do it with a hacksaw also but your arm would surely be tired after...
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Old 06-11-2010, 08:19 PM   #12
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

I buy the 10 pack bimetal sawzall blades at homedepot, and jeep them in the case
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1956 Chevy Apache
1967 C10 SWB FleetSide (under construction)
1969 K10 SWB FleetSide (Future Build)
1972 C10 SWB Stepside (Future Build)


56 chevy truck :
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2955823/1

67 truck build:

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=281357/1


69 k10:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=389470
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Old 06-11-2010, 10:22 PM   #13
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

I have cut a few frames with the Milwaukee Ice Edge Torch blades and they have worked great. They stay cooler and last longer, but cost more. Try the 9" in a 5-pack.
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:49 AM   #14
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

....a can of WD40 or similar will help out, too. Have fun.
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:16 AM   #15
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

Get some Lenox bimetal blades, they will last longer than any other blades out there. I bet you dont use more than one to cut both sides. my .02
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Old 06-13-2010, 02:09 AM   #16
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

x2 on the Lenox blades. I never had one dull out on me before I broke it for some stupid reason haha
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Old 06-13-2010, 02:46 AM   #17
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

Just saw one on CL, here some place in placerviile, aready cut off and cleaned up, I`ll have to look around.
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Old 06-13-2010, 06:04 AM   #18
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/1778775228.html
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:52 AM   #19
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

Ya I had PM`d that to him....
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Old 01-16-2011, 12:35 AM   #20
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Re: Yet another front Crossmember Question

There was a article I read sometime back about wiring your dewalt cordless to a 12v car battery.
It doesn't run at 18 volts and then progressively drain to 8v, then 4v, then dead, but rather at 12v for a long time.
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