Drill bits

[vectorit]

I need to drill a couple holes through my frame, and I have had bad luck with drill bits in the past in making good progress. Usually they just don't seem to cut into the metal fast enough for me, or they just break or dull up so much that they are useless to me.

What brands have you all used with fast results to drill holes into the thick steel of the frame?

(The holes I need to drill are going to be about a quarter inch).

EDIT: Actually, they are 5/8.

[Indian113]

Speed in drilling a hole isn't always the first thing to consider, I use a titanium 3 flute bit but I also do it in stages and use a cutting oil for lubricant. If you push a bit without usi ng cutting oil you will just get it hot and it will wear out quicker.

[cdowns]

pilot holes and lubrication makes things go good// too fast a speed burns and dulls the best bits

[GruntMoanCough]

Cobalt (drill bit, not the car).

[Shane]

you need to spin the 1/4" drill about 1,500 rpms with just enough force to make small C-shaped chips. Small dusty chips means not enough feed which will dull the drill due to rubbing and long curly continuous chips mean too much feed which will chip out the cutting edges.

[markeb01]

Best results I've had drilling up to 1/4" thick steel was using the cheap step drill set from Harbor Frieght:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...lls-91616.html

I start with a pilot hole and use lubricant. I've been using the same set for about 3-4 years, and only recently burned up one step on one of the bits.

[TennesseeZ]

Originally Posted by Indian113

Speed in drilling a hole isn't always the first thing to consider, I use a titanium 3 flute bit but I also do it in stages and use a cutting oil for lubricant. If you push a bit without usi ng cutting oil you will just get it hot and it will wear out quicker.

Originally Posted by cdowns

pilot holes and lubrication makes things go good// too fast a speed burns and dulls the best bits

Originally Posted by Shane

you need to spin the 1/4" drill about 1,500 rpms with just enough force to make small C-shaped chips. Small dusty chips means not enough feed which will dull the drill due to rubbing and long curly continuous chips mean too much feed which will chip out the cutting edges.

Originally Posted by markeb01

Best results I've had drilling up to 1/4" thick steel was using the cheap step drill set from Harbor Frieght:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...lls-91616.html

I start with a pilot hole and use lubricant. I've been using the same set for about 3-4 years, and only recently burned up one step on one of the bits.

All the above. I drill a pilot on most everything above 3/16", use Rapid Tap or Magic Tap and trigger the drill to keep the speed low. Never push the bit, let it cut at it's own speed. If it won't cut, sharpen it.

[vectorit]

Originally Posted by markeb01

Best results I've had drilling up to 1/4" thick steel was using the cheap step drill set from Harbor Frieght:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...lls-91616.html

I start with a pilot hole and use lubricant. I've been using the same set for about 3-4 years, and only recently burned up one step on one of the bits.

Thanks guys so far for the input on this! As simple as one would think about just drilling a hole into steel, I know there has to be a proper technique to it to get the best results.

I've never used step drills? Would this type of bit be sufficient to drill into a frame rail? I always thought they were more for thinner stock?

[TennesseeZ]

Originally Posted by vectorit

Thanks guys so far for the input on this! As simple as one would think about just drilling a hole into steel, I know there has to be a proper technique to it to get the best results.

I've never used step drills? Would this type of bit be sufficient to drill into a frame rail? I always thought they were more for thinner stock?

Depends on the bit. The long thin ones have a wider step than the short fat ones, and I have drilled from both sides with them on thicker stuff.

[markeb01]

First time I ever saw them was watching the bike building show on tv, and always thought they were for thin sheet metal as well. But there have been a few times I needed to drill out thick metal, the bits were already old so I figured I'd give it a try. Chewed right through for me. As mentioned, I did toast one step, on a thick piece of stainless, but I'm simply amazed how well these things work.

When I was swapping out my front suspension I needed several 9/16" holes, and chipped the corners off several expensive bits I bought for the job. I wish I had known about step drills at the time.

[fastwillie 696969]

turn the frame side ways and get under the drill press LOL j/k
high speed drill bits snap on is what got

[BarryB]

I used cheap bits I've used expensive bits. Have good results out of both. I have the full set of titanium bits from HF. Does me fine. Like TennesseeZ said, let the drill bit do the work, use plenty of cutting oil. Take your time .

[fixit-p]

I recommend going with a flatter point than 118* I use mostly 145* with split points, the split point allows you to drill w/o the need of a pilot hole if you cant find split points the pilot hole needs to be the size of the chisel point HSS is good stay away from uncoated bits (bright finish) black oxide is good or TiN and TiCN are best imo

[MacAttack]

fixit-p has the right idea.

The only things I'd add is punch the location to give yourself a place to start and not skid, use a center-drill, to get started and as soon as you go in from the straight tip to the angle - stop and use your regular (jobber)drill.

Pilot holes are nice when you're drilling on a machine with a vice, but will grab like heck on a frame situation - so you just want a nice little spot to keep your drill centered.

Did this when I drilled the new cross-member holes on my 65', using a variable speed 1/2" drill motor. Speed will just burn the edges of your drill - so hold the RPM's down. Tapping fluid (or a good hypoid oil) stays at in the drilling envelope better.

Remember - if you're not making chips - you're rubbing, not cutting.

Mac.

[mbgmike]

We gave up on cheap chinese bits. Not worth the time or money.
Boeing made the best lubricant if you can still find it. and not sure they make it any longer.
Moly-Dee is a good brand of lubricant withstands a lot of heat

[Fred T]

BoeLube is still made. http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,4900.html

Step drill are made for thin sheet. Most older pickup frames are low carbon steel that has been hardened, but not too much. For 1/4" holes I wouldn't bother with a pilot. American made HSS bits will work when used properly. Split points are a must. A good bit can be sharpened many times, so a Drill Doctor is a good investment. And all but the bottom end DD can put a split point on the bit.

[Sillyoldman]

I use Irwin Turbomax drill bits 3018010. Really like them. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...26tbs%3Disch:1

[domestictuner]

i kind of have to laugh at some of the advice being given in here, so i figure i might as well chime in with my 2 cents.

it may not be "by the book" but it has worked for me, and how i teach my people at work. we drill 1/8" to 3/8" holes through anything from wood to 5/8" thick structural steel.

-the only thing air drills are good for, other then drilling holes in sheetmetal, is dulling drill bits. its a fine line between pushing hard enough to get the rpm down and stopping the bit from pushing too hard.
-there is a direct relation to speed and pressure. high rpm=high pressure, if you cant push hard then you have to turn the bit slower.
-quick change bits and a cordless impact driver, you are better off throwing your money in the trash, it is quicker and less frustrating.
-Get an electric drill. Push as hard as you can, as soon as the sound changes back off a little and hold the drill steady, its about through.
-If you aren't throwing off a continuous shaving you aren't pushing hard enough, or you're turning too fast.
-if your bit is squealing, its junk. Sharpen it or throw it away.
-titanium coated is just a gimmick, if you know what you are doing you cant tell the difference between a ti coated bit and a regular old black drill bit.
-cutting oil, for us, is more of a hassle then it is worth, some people swear by it, and use it for everything, we don't use it because of the clean up involved when drilling on a finished product, and it is just one more thing to have in the MSDS book.

we only use about 5-6 different size bits, but the way we look at it is, a couple of bucks a drill bit is cheap. if you are buying an index to replace a broken bit you are wasting your money. (I know a guy that has 3 or 4 bit indexes and probably doesn't have a complete one.) Buy a decent index once, then go to a construction supply store they have cases of bits you can buy one at a time should you need to replace one.

Lastly, the dewalt bits, with the smaller tips to pilot the holes are animals. they are also notched on the other end so if you are using a junk keyless chuck you dont have to worry about it spinning in the chuck. you may not be able to sharpen the bit once you dull it, but i just put the last one through 100 holes in 5/8 structural steel on a job, no oil, the same method i explained above. if i hadn't of slipped on the last one and noodled it, i would still be using it.

And this might be the wrong thread but you guys raving about your HF tools... are either sponsored or not using them much, we have broken every tool(a couple corded impacts, grinders, allen wrench sets) and destroyed a bit index from that place. there is a reason the tools are cheap there.

that said, flame away.

[vectorit]

No need to flame anyone on this, since I am very appreciative of all the comments!

Really, this is what I have to deal with.
I don't have access to high end tool houses, nor am I all that excited about spending a lot of money on drill bits. But, I will do what I have to to make things right.

I plan to use an electric DeWalt drill, and just go to the local Lowe's to shop for best and proper drill bit I can get from there.
The holes I have to drill are on the side of the frame, so basically I will be sitting on the floor drilling into the frame at chest level.

If I can get away with not spending the time drilling a pilot hole that would be great, so I plan to just center punch the spot I need to put a hole with the drill bit.
I like this description "the dewalt bits, with the smaller tips to pilot the holes are animals", that being said is there a part number or a picture of one that I can make note of when I go to Lowe's?

Thanks again for all the input everyone!

[fixit-p]

135* split points work w/o pilot holes (just center punch as mentioned above) I buy TiN and TiCN coated drill bits from 7/64" through 3/16" anything above that I get black oxide coated bits up to 1-1/2" any coating helps with lubricity and since the OP is drilling 1/4" holes TiN and TiCN coated bits are still reasonable at that size http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/2418/=7kxbqu I agree any thing beyond that is a waste of money.

As far as the "dewalt bits, with the smaller tips to pilot the holes are animals" goes that may be true if you are drilling wood or thin A36 steel I once had a co worker bring some in to try out and they didn't last through the day, oh yeah we are drilling heat treated truck frame rails, A36, 1018, 1144 and various other materials up to 5" deep. I just delivered within the last week 4 trucks (American LaFrance Condors) with 3/4" thick double frame rails ~40 holes per truck 21/32" dia. split point black oxide drill bit with lots of cutting oil and no pilot hole, cant do that w/o split points or cutting oil.

[vectorit]

Welp... I blew through one hole with a new bit quite easily, moved onto the second hole and something happened and snapped the new bit right in half!
27.00 HSS bit in the trash...

I bought it from Fastenal Company, and it's their own house branded bit.
Gotta go back and get another one, and I will bring the busted one with me. Pretty sure the guy will tell me to pound sand. But, you never know.

Strange, I wasn't even running a high RPM on the drill yet. Caught a slight edge as it was starting to cut, then snap!

[fixit-p]

Thats $27.00 for 6 pcs. right?

[vectorit]

Just got back, and he gave me my money back.
Trouble is, he didn't have another one to replace it.
Lowe's was all out as well.
Guess I have to go to Homie Depott - Hate that store.

I edited my original post, since the bit size I actually need now is 5/8.

[ERASER5]

Those Fastenal bit are HARD! As in cracking-prone hard! My 33/64" is cracked, but still usable, at least until I get it caught just as it breaks through.

Yep. That $27 for 1 bit, but they do cut like a hot knife through butter!

[fixit-p]

ahaha I thought it was $27 for one 1/4" bit but thats not too bad for a 5/8" bit

I use these alot too >>> http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0302069&ucst=t fastenal is pricey though I get the 5/8" reamers for about $45 HSS they work great on tempered truck frames.