looking for tips on Ignition switch replacement

[TDS-MN]

Hey All,

I've been working to replace the ignition switch on the '85 Pickup. Curious if anyone has any tips or things to watch out for? It's been tricky to get the switch lined up for the screws to hit their holes in the steering column. Would be easier if I had the column out of the truck, I'm sure, but that doesn't look like it's gonna happen, as the 2 nuts where it passes thru the firewall, are rusted beyond a point that I can remove them.

I'm curious if there is a special way to get the new switch and the little linkage bar that is operated by the key cylinder, all lined up properly? I've been setting the switch at what I would expect to be the 'key off' position, as it seems to have another setting for 'accessories' when the linkage bar is pulled one notch 'up' the column. By my understanding, the switch has another point for "run" (two notches down from accessories) and room to slide further to what I would assume is "start", but that doesn't have a true stop point for the slider inside the switch. Does that sound right to you all?

I'm a little worried that the actual switch is not my problem. I have plenty of power at interior lights, headlights, etc, but when I turn the key it has no effect on anything. My inital diagnosis was the switch, but first attempt after replacement was negative. So I was hoping to confirm that I did indeed do the replacement correctly, then I can continue my troubleshooting elsewhere.

By the way, would that be the 'hazzard' switch adjacent to the ignition switch on the side of the column? Has the lt green, yellow, brown wires like I would expect for lighting, but I couldn't find reference to that switch in my wiring diagrams anywhere. It was operated by a similar metal rod from up in the column, as the ignition switch was. Sadly, that rod fell out while I was working on re-attaching the ignition switch, and I'm hoping that is all it was, so I can rig up something in it's place, as I don't think I'm up to digging deeper into the steering column in effort to replace that properly, if I don't have to.

Yes, it was one of those days where I wished i wouldn't have even attempted to work on the truck. Was a very frustrating evening, which I likely could have avoided if I only could have removed the column completely. Oh well.

[piecesparts]

I have had the priviledge to do a couple of the switch removals on a GM truck. The first was in a motel parking lot in Louisville, Ky on the Hot Rod Power Tour, a few years back and the other was in my garage with all of the tools available after I got home.

I found that you do not have to remove the steering column, but you CAN take the two 15 MM nuts off that are on the column mount, just under the instrument panel and rock it downward, so that you can reach down along the top of the column to remove and install the ignition switch. Once you have the new switch sitting on the column with the screws loosely holding it in place, slide it to the point that the rod is moving the slide to the proper contacts to start and let the engine run.

If you are curious about the switch working, then plug it into the harness and use a screwdriver to move the slide to start the engine. (Remember--I said I had to do a switch removal in a motel parking lot). I ran the last 1500 miles with the switch hanging froom under the dash.

You do know that the hazard switch is the button on the column just below the key insert area on the column.

[TDS-MN]

I'm actually glad to hear that it woudl be POSSIBLE to run without the switch being mounted to the column properly. Could be useful for future troubleshooting. I too was able to muscle the column around a little to allow some access to the area for mounting the switch, without completely removing it. Working with the small 3/8 and 5/16 wrench under there was not easy, but I did get pretty good at it.

Yes, you can operate the hazard lights from the little push-button by the key, but I believe that in-turn, that activates the actual electrical switch via the metal rod, similar to how the key moves the rod within the ignition switch. Assuming that was how the mechanism is supposed to work, and that my rod (that wasn't the ignition one) fell out of the column, I'm hoping to be able to wire in a different style switch to retain the use of the hazard lights, when needed. Something like a floor-mount stomp switch, like headlights used to have for the high-beams.

I was too frustrated to even look at it last night, though. I'm going to need to trace my wiring and verify where I do and don't have the 12v between the battery and ignition system.

Thanks for the reply, and sharing your experience with it.

[dropd80s]

Since you have an 85. I would say the second rod that fell out of your column is for the high beam switch which is connected to the turn signal stalk. The hazard switch is entirely contained inside the turn signal switch (not stalk the actual switch) just under the lockplate under the steering wheel. The switch adjacent to the ing. switch is the high beam switch. Back to the ingnition, the way that you describe the detents in the switch sounds correct. Like frank said try to operate the switch manually with a screw driver and see what that does. Also, will the accessories turn on with the ing. switch but not crank? Or does the key have no effect on anything?

[TDS-MN]

Oooo, good call on the high beam switch, I could see that being what this is. It is a plunger-type switch, and now that you mention it, it's operation does feel like that used to. I've not used my high-beams in this truck since my old switch broke, on a previous steering column. Got them stuck in the high-on position, I'm sure oncoming traffic hated that. Guess that just might even lend itself to an old-style stomp switch instead of the turn signal stalk.

To answer your question, the key seems to do nothing anymore. I still have good 12V at the battery, and I can turn on headlights, interior lights come on when door opened, etc. But absolutely nothing when key was turned. No dimming of other lights, like used to happen. No clicking like there's too little juice to turn the starter. Oh, and no power when I turn the key to "ACC", cannot turn on the radio, pretty much the only thing I have to run in that position.

It's like the truck doesn't recognize that I've even turned the key. Making me think the Ign Switch wasn't the culprit, though. I can feel the new switch sliding thru the various detents/positions as I turn the key, at least. Figuring I maybe have a bad fusible link or something? I'll need to probe deeper with my voltmeter when I have time and energy to fight with this again.

[dropd80s]

I'm 99% sure your looking at a fuseable link. Get a Chiltons manual and look at the wire diagrams in the back. Its a very simple circuit. I usually reroute all my wires under the hood of all my 73-87s so I dont remember exactly which one could be your culprit. There are a few at the starter and one on the firewall at the distribution block. You may get lucky and the one on the firewall is the one you're looking for. If it is a fuseable link make sure you check the length of the wire for a short, they dont normally blow for no reason.