thinking out loud...Trailing arm Xmember question

[edflores]

Im looking to see if you could move the trailing arm crossmember up to change your wheelbase from long to short.
Then chop the frame off somewhere behind it and do a custom backhalf.
Just a thought..

[SCOTI]

Sure you could. Anything is possible w/the right plan, tools, & skills.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Im sure that would be very do able make it easy on yourself and buy an aftermarket trailing arm crossmember put it in the frame where you want it and build the back half off that..

[edflores]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

Im sure that would be very do able make it easy on yourself and buy an aftermarket trailing arm crossmember put it in the frame where you want it and build the back half off that..

Was looking at the one from nate.
But I just wanted to see if anyone had done it before. Seems easier than shortening the frame for what I want to do with the truck.

[raycow]

Someone else asked the same question recently because he didn't want to deal with moving the cab mounts. I don't know if he ever got an answer.

It looks like it should be doable, but I'm not sure if it will actually be less work overall. You will still have to deal with the spring mounts, box mounts, rear crossmember and a few other bits I probably forgot about.

Ray

[oldblue1968chevy]

for someone like myself (can weld but not gonna weld my frame together lol)

it SEEMS like it'd be easier to drill holes and cut rivits VS cutting frame/welding back..

idk free bump interesting..

I HATE RIVITS THO

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by edflores

Im looking to see if you could move the trailing arm crossmember up to change your wheelbase from long to short.
Then chop the frame off somewhere behind it and do a custom backhalf.
Just a thought..

They did it with project "Get Shorty" in Custom Classic Trucks magazine.

They moved the crossmember forward to eliminate messing with the rear cab mount,... but they still had to cut the frame.

Look here for the articles:
Frame cut
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...ech/index.html

Trailing arm crossmember moving
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...uck/index.html

To me this would be more trouble than taking out the 12" of frame under the cab,... and slicing 8" off the rear frame rails.

[lolife99]

This is the entire set of tech articles for that project truck.

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/s...les/index.html

[edflores]

As i am bagging the rear, Im trying to weigh the pros and cons of doing it this way. Im still going to have to kick up the frame, still have to make bag brackets, shock crossmembers.
And I mean cut off the factory frame. not splice it back on.

[edflores]

Any more input? I just bought a short bedsides so I need to get my game plan soon.

[SCOTI]

Your plan is a home built back half frame section using the OE truck arms as the rear suspension?

[edflores]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Your plan is a home built back half frame section using the OE truck arms as the rear suspension?

Well not a full backhalf yet. I think I can get away with using the frame as usual, just everything will be a foot forward. I will use a non contoured notch on whats left behind later. I plan on a 5-7" or so rear drop on bags now. And my stock arms, for now, maybe upgrade to Nates in the future.
Im not going to be using the coils, I have "hats" for the upper bag mount, I have an aftermarket shock xmember, and was going to get a longer adjustable panhard bar.

[sjarrett71]

I think what you're asking has been talked about before. The problem with your plan is the contours and width of the frame changes and that is why people cut their frames on the flat parts and move everything forward. In other words, if you just move the trailing arms and axle forward it will no longer sit under the humps and look pretty silly.

[edflores]

Originally Posted by sjarrett71

I think what you're asking has been talked about before. The problem with your plan is the contours and width of the frame changes and that is why people cut their frames on the flat parts and move everything forward. In other words, if you just move the trailing arms and axle forward it will no longer sit under the humps and look pretty silly.

I dont have a SWB 63-72 i could compare to, but shouldnt the frame be the same pretty much from the front, to where the trailing arm Xmember attaches on a SWB to the same point on a LWB?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by edflores

I dont have a SWB 63-72 i could compare to, but shouldnt the frame be the same pretty much from the front, to where the trailing arm Xmember attaches on a SWB to the same point on a LWB?

The frame rails are for the most part straight in the area mentioned. On swb frames, the TA c.member is under the cab. On lwb frames, it's behind the cab. From the front of the bed toward the back is where the frame curves out.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by lolife99

To me this would be more trouble than taking out the 12" of frame under the cab,... and slicing 8" off the rear frame rails.

Having shortened several LWB frames, I agree! It is pretty straight forward and easy to shorten one.

Originally Posted by edflores

I dont have a SWB 63-72 i could compare to, but shouldnt the frame be the same pretty much from the front, to where the trailing arm Xmember attaches on a SWB to the same point on a LWB?

Here are the dims for a SWB frame FYI.

[edflores]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Having shortened several LWB frames, I agree! It is pretty straight forward and easy to shorten one.



Here are the dims for a SWB frame FYI.

Thanks for your input.
What would you charge for that service?
What should I pay to have someone cut my frame down, if i bring a rolling chassis?

I dont see harm in me trying first to bolt up the trailing arm xmember.I'm going to by a PB one this month. This thing will be bagged, so bag mounts, relocated shocks, and longer panhard are needed regardless. the rear bed mounting looks to be the other issue, but i dont see it being a major problem.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by edflores

Thanks for your input.
What would you charge for that service?
What should I pay to have someone cut my frame down, if i bring a rolling chassis?

I dont see harm in me trying first to bolt up the trailing arm xmember.I'm going to by a PB one this month. This thing will be bagged, so bag mounts, relocated shocks, and longer panhard are needed regardless. the rear bed mounting looks to be the other issue, but i dont see it being a major problem.

The last few I did I charged $450, and they were happy to pay that. Good SWB frames are a rare breed in these parts, so when you do find one in good shape the owner wants a mint for them, so shortening the more available LWB frame is usually more cost effective.

I'm not going to try to talk you out of doing it your way, because it will work. But, me personally, if I were to see it at a show, I'm that irritating guy that would be shaking his head going "why did he do it that way??" It would be obvious to an enthusiast that knew what things should look like under there that it was done in a weird way. But building these things are done to the builder's satisfaction, not the onlookers.

Don't take this as a slam against you, its not. I'm just trying to give you my reasoning why I would rather shorten the frame in the middle -vs- moving the x-member up. It should be all about what you want, not us.

[boostin20]

Sub'd

[edflores]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

The last few I did I charged $450, and they were happy to pay that. Good SWB frames are a rare breed in these parts, so when you do find one in good shape the owner wants a mint for them, so shortening the more available LWB frame is usually more cost effective.

I'm not going to try to talk you out of doing it your way, because it will work. But, me personally, if I were to see it at a show, I'm that irritating guy that would be shaking his head going "why did he do it that way??" It would be obvious to an enthusiast that knew what things should look like under there that it was done in a weird way. But building these things are done to the builder's satisfaction, not the onlookers.

Don't take this as a slam against you, its not. I'm just trying to give you my reasoning why I would rather shorten the frame in the middle -vs- moving the x-member up. It should be all about what you want, not us.

If i could find someone to accurately do it for 450, I'd cut the frame. And leave with a smile. Thanks for your input.