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Old 06-26-2010, 08:45 PM   #1
C-10 simplex
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STOP THIEF, part 1

Need ideas/example of how to lock/chain down a hood.

This is a newer 81-87(91) frontend. Thanks.
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Old 06-26-2010, 09:17 PM   #2
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

Hood pins with locks.
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Old 06-26-2010, 09:42 PM   #3
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

I had several alarms on my vehicles back in the 80's and 90's that had a hood lock built in. Just an actuator with a pin that would keep the hood from opening unless disengaged, even if you pulled the release handle.
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Old 06-26-2010, 09:43 PM   #4
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

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Originally Posted by Slofarmtruck View Post
Hood pins with locks.
That's an idea, but i don't want to drill into the hood.
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Old 06-26-2010, 09:44 PM   #5
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

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I had several alarms on my vehicles back in the 80's and 90's that had a hood lock built in. Just an actuator with a pin that would keep the hood from opening unless disengaged, even if you pulled the release handle.
Can i get a picture or link?
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Old 06-26-2010, 09:46 PM   #6
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

weld it shut!!! A sliding lock like they use on some gates Whats wrong with the stock cable latching system??
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Old 06-26-2010, 10:30 PM   #7
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

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Can i get a picture or link?
Like I said, that was almost 20 years ago. I just remember it had an actuator that engaged a rod, and an extra hole was drilled in the hood latch plate or even in the hood latch itself. With the rod engaged it was like a second striker and latch, even if you popped the hood release the hood remained shut.
I did not buy the product myself, back then I just paid people to do that. Can't even remember if it was Car Toys or Sunbelt Automotive who did those for me, I think it was Sunbelt though. They also had the "defender" steering column thing which I had on a lot of my old cars. The defender was a metal shroud that replaced the part on your column where thieves always broke off, in order to steal/start your car. Had a secondary lock on the side that stopped your switch from moving, even if you had the car key. Sorry, was off topic.
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Old 06-26-2010, 11:45 PM   #8
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

I just put my German Shepard on mine. She won't let anyone near it! Just kidding. How about a junker with the inside hood latch release?
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Old 06-27-2010, 12:20 AM   #9
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

a short piece of chain a padlock and another short piece of chain or wire it to a electric fence box....
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Old 06-27-2010, 02:09 AM   #10
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

This may sound funny to you... but, I had a 78 SWB, and we had a alarm installed on it, and the alarm guy told us this trick.

I went and bought a choke cable... measure it to see how long you need for it to reach your hood, I mounted the nob where the newer model hood releases are, right above the E-brake. they make the cables in all sizes.... you want it to reach to the center of your hood, right beside the latch release.

Here's the good part... go to the hardware store and buy one of the door locks that goes on a house door... the one that had the rod that slides back and forth through the loop. Mount the lock on the core support, and loop goes on the hood. You may have to shim the lock up with some washers so it's high enough to reach the loop on the hood. Drill a hole in the sliding rod to connect the choke cable too. Attach, close hood... push choke cable in cab and lock slides through loop, locking the hood. it worked great on our old pickup... wish I still had pictures... easy, and cheap set-up.
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Old 06-27-2010, 08:49 AM   #11
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

Content removed....there was no indication the this was a joke.

Last edited by LONGHAIR; 06-27-2010 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 06-27-2010, 08:52 AM   #12
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

dang PRattenbury!!!
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Old 06-27-2010, 08:59 AM   #13
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

Just don't forget it's armed and open the hood.
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Old 06-27-2010, 10:59 PM   #14
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

bike lock thru hood and thru spring, slows down theift, but does not stop it.
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:10 PM   #15
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

Has anyone had a motor stolen? I know people who stole big mud terrains and wheels off coasties trucks when they come to the river on party weekends... but motors?? I have no advice. I just never have heard of it
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:49 PM   #16
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

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Has anyone had a motor stolen? I know people who stole big mud terrains and wheels off coasties trucks when they come to the river on party weekends... but motors?? I have no advice. I just never have heard of it
carb: 250-400 $$ in 4 bolts...

alarm bugal horn: 2 wires....every 1 goes back to sleep
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Old 06-28-2010, 12:24 AM   #17
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

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carb: 250-400 $$ in 4 bolts...

alarm bugal horn: 2 wires....every 1 goes back to sleep
ok good call... still never heard of it though... now that i think of it i have heard stories of stupid highschool kids in the 80's taking M/T valve covers and such... still minor money though. but something
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Old 06-28-2010, 09:16 AM   #18
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

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Has anyone had a motor stolen? I know people who stole big mud terrains and wheels off coasties trucks when they come to the river on party weekends... but motors?? I have no advice. I just never have heard of it
1) When my uncle worked at the local pontiac/gmc dealer, new crewcabs and other trucks would get stolen out of the lot at night! The truck would subsequently be found several days later in the woods with the engine and trans gone!

2) But i'm not nessesarily doing it for that reason---i'm doing it because i'm going to disconnect the neg cable each time i park; If they can't open the hood, how can they connect the cable back......And if they can't connect it how will the truck start........etc.?

a) i'm running a 305 with 2G carb and stock iron 2bbl manifold; If the thief wants that, then s/he is truely a sick individual and needs help. Actually, all thieves need help, but even more so if they want the above fuel induction combination.
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Old 06-28-2010, 03:43 PM   #19
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

You could always try a battery disconnect switch somewhere in the line of the battery. You could easily get it and install it in an incospicious place, i.e. on the backside of the front bumper, or under the fender. I'm sure there are plenty of places to hide one and that way you wouldn't have to always lift the hood to reconnect the battery cables. All you'd have to do is flip the switch and be on your way. Just another suggestion that may be easier on you in the long run than always disconnecting and reconnecting.
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Old 06-28-2010, 04:19 PM   #20
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

Most car thieves will use a wheel lift or something to steal your vehicle. The old days of popping a column and driving away, are no more really. If they want it, they will take it.

Best you can do is an alarm with a pager and a kill switch. I used to always have my kill switch as my cigarette lighter. Unless you pushed in the lighter, the car/truck would not start. I had a dummy lighter I would put in its place, with the element removed and a piece of rubber shoved in it. Park it, put in the dummy lighter, put the real one in my pocket with the keys, go on my way. Yes you lose the function of your lighter, which many will not want to do with all the cell phone chargers and such now, but meh. It works.
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Old 06-28-2010, 09:30 PM   #21
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Re: STOP THIEF, part 1

The PO mounted a killswitch under the dash. Good idea..... but the truck will still start in the off position if you put your foot on the brake pedal and start it. Maybe it was for child safety and not thief safety?
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