Need some help on oil pump pickup tube.

[jimmybeus]

I bought a new high volume oil pump. I didnt order a new pickup tube or screen. Can I use the old one and if so how does it come out? I searched other posts but came up with nothing. I want to get it going today but there aren't any auto parts stores open within 100 miles today. Am I stuck till tomorrow? Thanks

[cableguy0]

You need to use a new pickup tube.Your not going to get the old one out without destroying it. I would advise against using a high volume oil pump in a stock engine though. Theres no benefit whatsoever.

[jimmybeus]

Ok thanks. Its not a stock motor. Its putting out around 400 hp with a 9.5:1 compression. The intake and cam in it advise a high volume oil pump and so I figured I would throw one in. The reason is that I hardly show any pressure at idle and only 30 at driving. That kinda worries me.

[1LowToy]

Always use a new GM pickup tube. A high volume pump is fine but don't go to the high pressure spring. The high pressure spring will cause a drag on the oil pump drive from the distributer. I wiped about 5 distributer drive gears before it dawned on me what I did wrong. 30 psi oil presure is a little low I hope all your other clearances are good. Are you talking a new motor or used motor and bearings hopped up?

[spinem]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

I would advise against using a high volume oil pump in a stock engine though. Theres no benefit whatsoever.

no benifet over a high volume??/ uhhhhh maybe more oil to the parts that need it??? JUST A THOUGHT

Originally Posted by 1LowToy

Always use a new GM pickup tube. A high volume pump is fine but don't go to the high pressure spring. The high pressure spring will cause a drag on the oil pump drive from the distributer. I wiped about 5 distributer drive gears before it dawned on me what I did wrong. 30 psi oil presure is a little low I hope all your other clearances are good. Are you talking a new motor or used motor and bearings hopped up?

a gm? why gm? do u work for them and need to build up some $$
if its a milling, use a milling pick up, if its a gm, use a gm pick up. stay brand with brand always!!!!

Originally Posted by jimmybeus

Ok thanks. Its not a stock motor. Its putting out around 400 hp with a 9.5:1 compression. The intake and cam in it advise a high volume oil pump and so I figured I would throw one in. The reason is that I hardly show any pressure at idle and only 30 at driving. That kinda worries me.

400hp?? nos or forced in?? because i can guarantee just a cam and 9:5's aint gonna touch that at all.
btw, intake reccomended high vol??? im guessing its some sort of a forced, becuse if not, return it, their idiots.

in addition, 30psi is terrible, at that psi, driving it has already caused damage to the berings and cam. Check ur guage, it could b wrong.

what weight oil u using? whats the average temp where u live?? major factors to consider when purchasing oil.... remember, the numbers = seconds it take for the oil to drain thru a specific hole on the test meters,,,,, go to walmart, buy a 5q jug of their no name oil, change it every 2k.....go to napa, buy a "truck 350" oil filter, this will doubble the filtering capacity and add +1q to ur motor....

napa used to carry wicks for those filters, now they dont some otheer brand, contact wicks and have them shipp to nearest store... wicks=8.99 napa=18.99usd

one last thing, /w/ foredged pistons (assuming u have them) never use synthetic, it will blow by like a son of a beechhh. it will foul up the plugs and cause worse performance, believe me... ive done it.

what im running:
74chevy 350/350 9:5 foredged, RV cam, 64vette heads, fuel cooler, 2500cfm ele fan, milling high vol

OOOHHH one last thing, napa brand hi-vol pummps are the same brand as milling, their made by milling accually (save ya 30 bucks)

[cableguy0]

I doesnt matter if you push the oil with a fire hydrant theres only a certain amount of space for the oil to fill. Extra oil isnt going to fit into that space. High volume pumps tend to suck the pan dry. If you have low oil pressure theres a problem somewhere else. Either clearances are too loose or the engine is just worn. Verify your pressure with a known good mechanical gauge.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by spinem

no benifet over a high volume??/ uhhhhh maybe more oil to the parts that need it??? JUST A THOUGHT

More than required is of no benefit....

It just puts more strain on the cam drive gear and there is no performance gain nor increase in longevity. The bearings get what they need from a stock pump....and so does everything else.

Every 2 thousand miles is just a pure waste of oil.

[coater]

I'm building a sb 400 with 5.7 rods. I have a HV oil pump that I haven't put on yet. Do you have a part # for the oil pump your talking about?

[kelsfine69]

They are pressed in, sometime you can get them out but new is always nicer. Whatever you do just throw a couple of tak welds on each side for insurance

[jimmybeus]

I got the motor from a buddy who rebuilt it and had it in his 77 blazer with 8" lift and 44". He put about 5000 miles on it and put a 454 he had been building in it. It does have a lot more than just a cam and intake. I did order the oil pump from Napa but I think maybe the oil I am using might be to thin. I am running Royal Purple 5w30 with K&N filter. Would getting a heavier oil make a big difference?
I have the Torker intake by edelbrock on it and in Jegs it was just suggesting running high volume oil pump. The reason for the Royal Purple is that I have read stuff about oils wiping out cams if they dont have the rught stuff in them and I understand that RP has it. If someone can educate me a little more I would gladly listen.
Thanks for the advice

[spinem]

Originally Posted by jimmybeus

I got the motor from a buddy who rebuilt it and had it in his 77 blazer with 8" lift and 44". He put about 5000 miles on it and put a 454 he had been building in it. It does have a lot more than just a cam and intake. I did order the oil pump from Napa but I think maybe the oil I am using might be to thin. I am running Royal Purple 5w30 with K&N filter. Would getting a heavier oil make a big difference?
I have the Torker intake by edelbrock on it and in Jegs it was just suggesting running high volume oil pump. The reason for the Royal Purple is that I have read stuff about oils wiping out cams if they dont have the rught stuff in them and I understand that RP has it. If someone can educate me a little more I would gladly listen.
Thanks for the advice

thats some expensive oil my friend....and it matters what the wethers like in ur area, if your 70 or below, id stay there, hotter, heavier. it sounds to me like you have an oil return blocked... pop the valve cover and take a look, there should be no blockages.

pull the + wire off the distributor /w/ the valvecovers off, turn it over, look for luuubbbbeeeeee

all oil is the same really, synthetic tends to give 2hp more says RP's dyno, can u feel the diff?....no. its all n ur head. Id buy the cheap stuff man, its cheap, easy, and avaible everywhere... just never use shell.... thst stuff just dont sit right with me... too expensive and says it has "cleaning agents in it".... naaaa.... im cool.

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

More than required is of no benefit....

It just puts more strain on the cam drive gear and there is no performance gain nor increase in longevity. The bearings get what they need from a stock pump....and so does everything else.

Every 2 thousand miles is just a pure waste of oil.

SO what your saying is he does not need a hi vol? Stock will work fine? uh no sir. a stock 350/400/454 never came stock with 400hp.... and lets face it, 400hp, ur gonna do some stupid things causing alot of stress on that motor.... you can never have too much lube and to say other wise is just pure ignorance, espically when a hi volume is 10 bucks more.

ever heard the saying "oil is oil is oil is oil?" buying royal purple at 9bucks a q and chainging it ever 2 k is dumb yes, but /w/ 10bucks/5q common!!!! thats cheap as hell and giving its for sale here in the us, that means it must meet certian standards, thus the quaker/cheveron/shell crap is all the same..... so why the hell not change it at 2k when i can do it /w/ pocket change!!???
........or am i gonna keep the oil too clean??

Originally Posted by cableguy0

I doesnt matter if you push the oil with a fire hydrant theres only a certain amount of space for the oil to fill. Extra oil isnt going to fit into that space. High volume pumps tend to suck the pan dry. If you have low oil pressure theres a problem somewhere else. Either clearances are too loose or the engine is just worn. Verify your pressure with a known good mechanical gauge.

suck the pan dry? he bought a napa...not a hoover.

[mongoose]

oil is not oil... not in the slightest.

[BigBlocksRule]

Low oil pressure is rarely ever related to the pump, you need new bearings. The .003 clearances between your bearings and cam/crank when an engine is new is what build pressure - trying to push oil through a thin space builds pressure. Old, worn bearings have more clearance, builds less pressure since the oil flows more freely thru the gap.
Some of you guys need to get some real world experience with oil pumps, the "high volume pump will pump your pan dry" is a myth and has been disproven many times. Any excess pressure or volume is dumped right back into the inlet side of the pump to try again.
As for no synthetic with forged pistons, I gotta call baloney on that one as well. Plenty of performance engines running synthetic with no problems...

[87GMCChris]

I have an 87 305 with 260,000 KMS on it, it would read low oil pressure. So i put a high flow pump on it with the upgraded pump shaft and new pickup. Also new pan and gasket while i was down there. I know its stock but for me a little extra oil pressue ans extra oil dosen't hurt. I have NEVER sucked the pan dry. Idle hot, 20 psi, driving hot 40-50 psi. I figure being that worn out, thats pretty good. I know i probally have worn clearences. I use 10w30. And that psi reading is with a mechanical gauge. I figure with the bearing wear, a high volume would help compensate. And keep me running longer. If i had the money i would rebuild it, but i don't... so $20 in the pump and $20 for the pan that will keep me going in till i can. Just my 2 cents.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by spinem

all oil is the same really, synthetic tends to give 2hp more says RP's dyno, can u feel the diff?....no. its all n ur head. Id buy the cheap stuff man, its cheap, easy, and avaible everywhere...

All oil is not the same, plain and simple. No one has said one word about synthetics making more power. They are just better at metal to metal friction reduction.....

Originally Posted by spinem

SO what your saying is he does not need a hi vol? Stock will work fine? uh no sir. a stock 350/400/454 never came stock with 400hp....

That's just plain wrong too. There were quite a few LS6 running around back in the day w/465 HP

Originally Posted by spinem

... you can never have too much lube and to say other wise is just pure ignorance, espically when a hi volume is 10 bucks more.

Sure you can, more than you need is just wasted....It is just circulating through the pump, and it is causing more drag on the distributor and cam.

Originally Posted by spinem

ever heard the saying "oil is oil is oil is oil?" buying royal purple at 9bucks a q and chainging it ever 2 k is dumb yes, but /w/ 10bucks/5q common!!!! thats cheap as hell and giving its for sale here in the us, that means it must meet certian standards, thus the quaker/cheveron/shell crap is all the same..... so why the hell not change it at 2k when i can do it /w/ pocket change!!???
........or am i gonna keep the oil too clean??

Why not get a new truck when the ashtray is full?
Wasting oil by changing it every 2k is just foolish.....and "oil is oil" is not gonna cut it, there are huge differences.

[jimmybeus]

Update. Installed mechanical gauge. Hot idle is now 20 driving is 50-60. Stock gauge in dash is way wrong. It still says 30 til hot and then down between 0-5. I feel a lot better driving it now. Thanks to all who gave input.

[79gmcc15]

Glad to hear! Keep on truckin!

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by jimmybeus

Update. Installed mechanical gauge. Hot idle is now 20 driving is 50-60. Stock gauge in dash is way wrong. It still says 30 til hot and then down between 0-5. I feel a lot better driving it now. Thanks to all who gave input.

Sounds like you need a new sending unit.

GM recommends 7 to 10 psi per 1000 rpm with 10W30 oil. Any more pressure is lost power turning the pump.

[old Rusty C10]

im glad all of this is settled lets keep this civilized

[spinem]

Originally Posted by mongoose

oil is not oil... not in the slightest.

well if you wish to get sucked into the company's BS go for it. Its just like buying Tylenol when u can but acetaminophen.

Originally Posted by BigBlocksRule

Low oil pressure is rarely ever related to the pump, you need new bearings. The .003 clearances between your bearings and cam/crank when an engine is new is what build pressure - trying to push oil through a thin space builds pressure. Old, worn bearings have more clearance, builds less pressure since the oil flows more freely thru the gap.
Some of you guys need to get some real world experience with oil pumps, the "high volume pump will pump your pan dry" is a myth and has been disproven many times. Any excess pressure or volume is dumped right back into the inlet side of the pump to try again.
As for no synthetic with forged pistons, I gotta call baloney on that one as well. Plenty of performance engines running synthetic with no problems...

do you have foredged pistons? do you run synthetic everyday? Because i did. and im telling you me results. so dont call "baloney" just because nascar says "BUY SYNTHETIC"

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

All oil is not the same, plain and simple. No one has said one word about synthetics making more power. They are just better at metal to metal friction reduction.....

---TRY GOOGLE. and see what RP claims... i mean crap, they even said it on HP tv by the rep for RP. once again. state your sources and prove me wrong, because i have a source, RP's source themselves.




That's just plain wrong too. There were quite a few LS6 running around back in the day w/465 HP

"350,454" No ones talking about a race motor. were taling about a stock 350 handeling 400 hp /w/ a stock oil pump. not an LS6. a 350 4 bolt main pre smog era.



Sure you can, more than you need is just wasted....It is just circulating through the pump, and it is causing more drag on the distributor and cam.

--more drag?? its larger passages for the oil to flow, thus a stock pump (pump pushes and hates to "suck") is having to suck for oil.... open her up and no more struggel, so accually if its starved, opening her up /w/ a high vol **NOT HI PRESS**** can lessen the load on the drive gear.




Why not get a new truck when the ashtray is full?
Wasting oil by changing it every 2k is just foolish.....and "oil is oil" is not gonna cut it, there are huge differences.

no there is not!!! all oil has to meet a certian standard. buy some cheapo non rec oil from walmart and compair it next to valoviene under a microscope and u will see no differences.

dead dinosaur is dead dinosaur no matter what people want you to think. But the cheap crap its all the same, the only thing u pay more for is the laminated flashy collor label for them to attract ur attention. talk to one whoss worked in a napa or O.R. for 30 years, or better yet, a mechanic all his life, they will be the first to tell you its all a gimic.... the us has standards, all must meet them, so if u see the little"meets 28474 or what ever # standards" sticker on the back, ITS ALL THE SAME.

Originally Posted by jimmybeus

Update. Installed mechanical gauge. Hot idle is now 20 driving is 50-60. Stock gauge in dash is way wrong. It still says 30 til hot and then down between 0-5. I feel a lot better driving it now. Thanks to all who gave input.

good deal! glad to hear it was a simpel fix!!

[spinem]

if you guys wanna go and buy brand name everything, fine go for it, but im telling you, buying generic 5gal jugs is not gonna kill you. if it meets standarrds, then it meets standards. change it every 2k and e amazed at how long ur oil will stay honey collored, if u wanna run it until its watery n black, go for it. changing oil eirly will not hurt a thing. go ahead and be stubborn but think, what can changing it sooner hurt??

Royal Purple claimed on HP tv in 2009 that their oil will gain 2hp. If any one says ne thing else to contradict that, call RP, not me.

Im done with all these people who have somthing to prove, and who post questions like "how to change blinker fluid?" or "look at this CL find!!!" grow up, bend a wrench and learn something, break it?, learn how to fix it.

I left this forum because it was going down hill, its now on the floor and im done.
see ya.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by spinem

I left this forum because it was going down hill, its now on the floor and im done.
see ya.

I thought you left??

[joe231]

Originally Posted by spinem

see ya.

[1LowToy]

Kinda figured someone was going to go ape-sh*t on my therory of original GM pickup tube. To explain further over the years of buying parts, aftermarket and original parts, it sure is nice to bolt on something that fits for sure and has no imperfections. I have had an oil pickup screen break loose and land in the oil pump. Sure hated to buy my customer another motor but I did.

I've put after market coils and ignition control modules on too. I really hated sucking up the tow bills for the customers but I did.

I think you see the picture. If you buy an aftermarket oil sending unit and it works for you great. I just don't have that kind of luck

[79gmcc15]

don't let the door hit ya! That kinda of attitude does nothing but harm to this board.