Does the LCA have to be removed to replace lower balljoints?

[chevymotocross]

According to the Haynes manual, and just be looking at it, it does appear in order to remove and replace the lower ball joint, the lower control arm would have to be removed.

I was REALLY trying to avoid removing these LCA's. Those u-bolts look to have never been removed and they look like a PITA to gain access to.

Are there any tricks to removing them without the removal of the LCA?

[my67chevytruck]

you should be able to use a ball joint tool (manual press) to remove the lower ball joint without removing the LCA.

[bharrison1]

i have done several of these without removing them from the truck once you get it loose from the spindle just knock it out with a hammer i have never rented a press i have always just used a floor jack to press in the new ones

[michael bustamante]

I think you only need to remove it if youre using a bench press

[SCOTI]

They can be removed using one of those ball joint removal tools (some parts stores even rent them). But..... typically when the BJ's are worn/bad, so are the a-arm shaft bushings & other related stuff. No sense in half-way rebuilding the front end.

[kev2809]

^^ what he said. and those u bolts are a pita to get to, i just ended up cutting mine off lol. would also be a good idea to get the beefier size u bolts too.

and this is when your tear your complete front suspension off and pile up the new parts to replace, it happens to everyone lol

[chevymotocross]

Actually all the balljoints and tie rods on this truck were still tight. Obviously it would be better if I replaced the control arm bushings at this time, but I'm not tackling it now. All this stuff comes off very easily if I want to do it at a later time (besides the u-bolts). I seperated both sides: spindles, coils, brakes, etc, in about 45 minutes.

One more question. This truck has lots of alignment shims. With the 2'' lowering coils, it's obviously going to need more. Do they sell longer shim studs? Or, can I replace the studs with longer grade 8 bolts? Not sure if they will be needed, but I'm assuming they would be.

[875.3CHEVY]

they make an offset control arm shaft.you can get it at autozone or napa its a moog part.comes with the bushings.gets rid of an inch of shims.napa NCP 2805536 for 73-87

[chevymotocross]

Thanks, I searched and found that Moog part in another thread. I found another alternative as well. Knock out the stock studs and install 1/2'' x 4 bolts.

Question is, is this required for 2'' drop springs?

[875.3CHEVY]

mine has 2" springs and thats why i had too buy the shaft.i was out of adjustment i should have done the bolt deal.

[oldblue1968chevy]

If I cut my front springs, what will I need?

I plan on taking my control amrs off (already rebuilt suspension) but didnt clean/paint anything

so imma clean it up and paint it all while i do my motor swap..

[chevymotocross]

I replaced them all today with longer grade 8 bolts. Atleast now I know 100% the alignment shop can have no excuse for not getting the camber correct. Plenty of room for shimming.

Also, ordered all new Moog balljoints, tie rods, and adjusting sleeves. Saved 15% from Advance Auto online. Great deal!

I'm really hoping my springs from Sport Truck Direct come in early next week. Getting ANNOYED! I've been waiting approximately 2 months for springs! They had some issues with Western Chassis so they are sending me Belltech springs but had to wait for approval to cancel their order from Western. Unbelievable

[875.3CHEVY]

what kind of bolt did you use.an all thread bolt with a nut.what im asking is the bolt gonna spin when they go to add or take away shims.ill prolly do this on my 2nd truck when i swap it to 1/2 ton shortbed frame.