c-notch questions

[54Caddy]

i have been doing little thing to my frame getting it ready to weld in a c-notch. I will be using a 6 inch pipe cut in half then welded in. But on the passenger side frame rail the steel brake line runs right where the notch will be. What did you guys with 73-87 do about this. The notch will be just like a bolt in so i know someone on here has had this problem, what was your solution?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

i have been doing little thing to my frame getting it ready to weld in a c-notch. I will be using a 6 inch pipe cut in half then welded in. But on the passenger side frame rail the steel brake line runs right where the notch will be. What did you guys with 73-87 do about this. The notch will be just like a bolt in so i know someone on here has had this problem, what was your solution?

Bolt in notches double the thickness of material along 2 different plains of the frame rail. Welding in a 1/2 piece of pipe is not the same when comparing strength. You need to box the inside of the rail @ a minimum but it still won't be as strong as stock (an engineer from this site did some analysis for us on this subject).

For the Western Chassis bolt-in c-notches which use the 1/2 round pipe style of notch, I recall only needing to 'tweak' the lines (by hand) up & over the notch slightly.

[54Caddy]

how big is the western chassis notch a 3 inch?? with the bolt in i will not have to box the frame correct??

[lolife99]

Correct.

[54Caddy]

any one have any links on these notches looks like i will be doing this damn that is a lot of drilling..

[kev2809]

get with n2trux. when he first did a notch on his 77, he did the pipe cut in half method, and reinforced the frame inside i think. looked pretty nice.

[54Caddy]

but i would have to pull the bed off for that.. and to me if i can bolt one in that is better because i would have to leave my truck at a buddys house to weld it in because i dont have a welder right now. Lets see if he chimes in ahaha..

[chevymotocross]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

For the Western Chassis bolt-in c-notches which use the 1/2 round pipe style of notch, I recall only needing to 'tweak' the lines (by hand) up & over the notch slightly.

Ditto, and the Western Chassis pieces really are nice. I know you're going with a different method, but if you haven't done any cutting yet, I would definitely check out the Western notch. Fit and structure are great!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

how big is the western chassis notch a 3 inch?? with the bolt in i will not have to box the frame correct??

The notch height is 3" OD so it's about 2.75" extra clearance gained. The rear pumpkin will hit the bed floor before bottoming on the notch. You don't have to box in the frame w/the bolt-in notch but it would be better if it was boxed as well.

Height in the rail is where the strength is when comparing material of the same thickness. That's why the bridge style notches that have full height stepped rails offer a better structural strength vs. half height square tube (boxed c-channel).

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

any one have any links on these notches looks like i will be doing this damn that is a lot of drilling..

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...n/csection.htm

[54Caddy]

so i will need the bed off in order to install this notch then?? any one have prices on these??

[54Caddy]

i cant find the c-notch by itself any one have links would be a little helpful

[hotrodhomi]

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

so i will need the bed off in order to install this notch then?? any one have prices on these??

No, but it will save you time and headaches in the long run. I just did this on my '72. It is way easier with the bed off. Plus, the bed is real easy to take off. I removed mine after work one day and started the next day on the notch. I had everything back together by dinner and I did everything myself. It would have been a lot easier if my air chisel didn't stink and I had help removing and aligning the bed. BTW I hate rivets after that project.

[N2TRUX]

Regardless of the style of notch you use, I recommend removing the bed. It's soo much easier to get the job done with it out of the way. The extra effort required to remove the bed far out weighs trying to work under it.

If you want to build a notch, here are pictures of mine.

[N2TRUX]

For details on a bolt in notch, take a look at my sig. There are pics in the Ride Tech article.

[54Caddy]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

No, but it will save you time and headaches in the long run. I just did this on my '72. It is way easier with the bed off. Plus, the bed is real easy to take off. I removed mine after work one day and started the next day on the notch. I had everything back together by dinner and I did everything myself. It would have been a lot easier if my air chisel didn't stink and I had help removing and aligning the bed. BTW I hate rivets after that project.

ahahah i hate rivets too. i dont have a tourch or anything so im grinding them flat takes for ever and the grinder gets too hot to hold. The only thing is i need to drive my truck to work how will i get the taillights stay on the frame and as far as cutting the frame what should i use??

[54Caddy]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

For details on a bolt in notch, take a look at my sig. There are pics in the Ride Tech article.

n2trux what style shocks did you run in the rear i will have the same setup as you. and what size flip kit did you have 5 or 6 inch??

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

n2trux what style shocks did you run in the rear i will have the same setup as you. and what size flip kit did you have 5 or 6 inch??

The drop amount of a flip kit is equal to half of the rear end diameter plus the height of the installed spring pack. If the truck has a 5-leaf spring pack, you'll typically see about 5". The HD trucks w/8-leaf spring packs will get a full 6" of drop.

For Ken's set-up, the 2 longest leafs were left in place to control side shift & a Ride Tech AOL set-up was used to maintain the capacity/height.

[54Caddy]

i will be using an air over leaf set up on mine also, i have the 2 longest leafs and the overload so what with the flip ill just get the thickness of the rear end diameter. Hopefully i get at the least 5 but 6 would be nice.

[N2TRUX]

If that's not enough, you can add a 1 or 2" block. We ended up with a 2" block to get the bag pressure where we wanted it at ride height.

[54Caddy]

N2Trux im trying to get as low as possible when aired out. I am trying to get the pumpkin to touch the bed floor when my air is out of the helper bags. So with the 3 leafs i have and a flip kit do you think it will do it. I have it measured out and seems it will but what is your opinion on that, also what shocks did you run in the rear?

[N2TRUX]

It hard to tell exactly how low that will get you due to the variables. Your springs may be more or less worn, but that should put you pretty close. What you don't see in my pics is a small button style bump stop that was inside the C-notch. With the truck aired out and sitting on the stop, the pumpkin was 1" or less from the bed floor. It was very close, but did not hit.

I suggest you get it done and see for yourself where it sits. You may need to remove the third leaf, but you won't know till you have it somewhat back together and the weight of the bed resting on it.

[54Caddy]

okay thanks man. You always have good advice, and one clean truck. I might not run a bump stop just so i can get it as low as possible but will be a hard hit, as far as front and rear shocks what did you run??

[54Caddy]

can any one answer my question on what shocks i need to run??

[lolife99]

I always run Belltech shocks on 73-87 trucks.
Order them for a 4/6 or 5/7 drop and you will be fine.
Look on Belltechs website for part numbers or give them a call.