Need help asap

[J_PEPIN87]

Well i got the big block in my truck got everything bolted and went to start it for the first time and i barely got it running.wat i mean by this is that the starter was dragging a lot.got the engine running for like 5 minutes at 2k rpms and everything was good, good oil pressure,temp wasnt dat hot,no unusual sounds at least that i could hear over the exhaust.and then the throttle came loose(i didnt have it hooked up) and the engine died. After this i tried to get the engine running again it would barely turn over so i thought it was the battery.got a fully charged battery and the same thing.went to turn the crank over by hand and is extremely tight even with the plugs out i can barely turn it over.my question is should it be this tight?the engine is a complete rebuild.i have asked several guys and they say dat is normal for it to be this tight,i just dont want to mess anything up.

[cableguy0]

With the plugs out it should not have that ridiculously tight. The starter should have no issue turning it over especially with the plugs out. Timing being too far advanced will make it drag trying to start the engine but will have no effect with the plugs out. Did you assemble the engine? Did the crank spin freely before the rods and pistons were installed?

[J_PEPIN87]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

With the plugs out it should not have that ridiculously tight. The starter should have no issue turning it over especially with the plugs out. Timing being too far advanced will make it drag trying to start the engine but will have no effect with the plugs out. Did you assemble the engine? Did the crank spin freely before the rods and pistons were installed?

The shortblock was assembled at the machine shop and I put everything else on it.I don't remember it being this tight when it was on the stand.could valve adjustment have anythin to do with this?

[Super73]

No. Valves would not cause it to have a hard time turning over by hand when the plugs are out.

When you pull the plugs, will the starter turn it over then?

Did you prime the motor through the distributor hole before firing it up?
How fast did you get oil pressure?
What was the oil pressure reading when you fired it?
Have you drained the oil to see what it looks like? (might be a good idea)

[J_PEPIN87]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

With the plugs out it should not have that ridiculously tight. The starter should have no issue turning it over especially with the plugs out. Timing being too far advanced will make it drag trying to start the engine but will have no effect with the plugs out. Did you assemble the engine? Did the crank spin freely before the rods and pistons were installed?

Originally Posted by Super73

No. Valves would not cause it to have a hard time turning over by hand when the plugs are out.

When you pull the plugs, will the starter turn it over then?

Did you prime the motor through the distributor hole before firing it up?
How fast did you get oil pressure?
What was the oil pressure reading when you fired it?
Have you drained the oil to see what it looks like? (might be a good idea)

1I was turning the engine over by hand without the plugs and it was just as hard as with plugs in it, it made no difference
2yes I primed the engine through distributor hole before starting until I had oil coming out of all pushrods.
3I had oil pressure as soon as I started to crank engine
4I think oil pressure was like at 60 at 2k rpms
5no I haven't drained the oil yet but I did check it on the dipstick and it was clean with no shavings in it

[Super73]

you typically won't find shavings on a dipstick, but will in the filter if you cut it open and in the oil when drained. I'd look in both places.

I assume you have a tq wrench. If you set it to 75lbs, will the motor spin before setting it off with the plugs out? If so, how low can you go before clicking it. This will give us all a real idea of how hard it is to turn.

[J_PEPIN87]

Originally Posted by super73

you typically won't find shavings on a dipstick, but will in the filter if you cut it open and in the oil when drained. I'd look in both places.

I assume you have a tq wrench. If you set it to 75lbs, will the motor spin before setting it off with the plugs out? If so, how low can you go before clicking it. This will give us all a real idea of how hard it is to turn.

today after work ima get the torque wrench and see how much torque it needs to turn over,im also goin to take the filter off and cut it to look for shavings.

[Super73]

Make sure to drain the oil too. Some cheaper filters are known to have the bypass stick open. If there is any shavings going through the oil system, the filter won't stop them if that bypass is stuck open. Then all of them will be in the pan and through out the motor, making matters worse.

If you can, it might be a good idea to drop the pan and pull the mains off one at a time, replacing the one you took off before pulling another. If you do this, wipe the half of the bearing off and snap a couple pics of each one so we can take a look for you as well. Also get a picture of the crank journal while the main is off.

Unfortunately I have seen a couple buddies motors go right out of the machine shop. One his crank looked like a ruffles potato chip as the mains were way to tight and the other, the pistons were too tight in the bore. None of which was noticed until after fire up and less than 50 miles.

I hope this is not the issue for you.

[cableguy0]

I have seen the wrong sized bearings used do the same thing. It does happen. But it should be caught long before the engine leaves the shop. It should be caught before the pistons are even installed. Most decent builders mic everything so it wouldnt happen in the first place. The torque wrench thing is a good idea.

[J_PEPIN87]

I got my torque wrench and the highest it went before the engine turned was 120 ft lbs.is this too tight or is it ok.I talked to the machinist today whoo worked on the heads and he said is ok for it to be tight since is a new motor

[Camaro_nut2001]

In my opinion 120lbs is way to tight with the plugs out. I'd be for pulling the motor & tearing it down. Did your machinst line bore it, recon rods or new? It sounds to me like you either have a bad rod or the wrong bearings etc....

[cableguy0]

Without plugs rotating resistance shouldnt be anywhere near 120ft lbs. Does it stay that hard all the way through rotation or does it turn easier in some places.

[J_PEPIN87]

It was 120 with the plugs in it haven't tried it without the plugs, the rods are new, and not sure if he line b ored it

[cableguy0]

Pull the plugs and turn it over.

[J_PEPIN87]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

Pull the plugs and turn it over.

Ima have to do this tomorrow cuz I didn't bring home tools to get the plugs out

[Super73]

I'm sure mine is close or above that 120lb mark with the plugs in. But I have a good amoint of compression and Dynamic compression as well.

Definately need the plugs out with the TQ wrench.

[J_PEPIN87]

Originally Posted by Super73

I'm sure mine is close or above that 120lb mark with the plugs in. But I have a good amoint of compression and Dynamic compression as well.

Definately need the plugs out with the TQ wrench.

this motor is suppose to have to some good compression too.the block is bored .030 over with dome top pistons but I'll check it tomorrow without the plugs.wat should the reading be without the plugs?

[midevil1]

i would say anything over 75lbs is too much force.

[Super73]

Even 75lbs seems tight. When I'm home I'll check mine with a TQ wrench. But I can spin it with the plugs out with a 3/8 drive ratchet which might be 10" long fairly easily.

[midevil1]

Originally Posted by Super73

Even 75lbs seems tight. When I'm home I'll check mine with a TQ wrench. But I can spin it with the plugs out with a 3/8 drive ratchet which might be 10" long fairly easily.

I agree totally. I think his engine is locking up. I would be interested in which machine shop did the build. I know just about everybody who is machining and pretending to machine in the town....

[J_PEPIN87]

Originally Posted by midevil1

i agree totally. I think his engine is locking up. I would be interested in which machine shop did the build. I know just about everybody who is machining and pretending to machine in the town....

the short block was done at a machine shop here in pasadena called jp's and the heads were done by craig caulk.

[midevil1]

Originally Posted by J_PEPIN87

the short block was done at a machine shop here in pasadena called jp's and the heads were done by craig caulk.

Craig Caulk does good work. Never heard of JP's. From what your describing, I would say you have main bearing and/or ring and piston clearance issue's.

[J_PEPIN87]

Well guys I have bad news. Today after work I came home and took all the sparkplugs out of the motor and went to turn the crank over with the torque wrench and it was almost impossible to turn it over. So now I know for sure there's somethin wrong and as much as I hate to do this looks like ima have to pull the motor out and take it apart.

[midevil1]

Originally Posted by J_PEPIN87

Well guys I have bad news. Today after work I came home and took all the sparkplugs out of the motor and went to turn the crank over with the torque wrench and it was almost impossible to turn it over. So now I know for sure there's somethin wrong and as much as I hate to do this looks like ima have to pull the motor out and take it apart.

Take it out and take it over to JP's. I would take off the oil pan and look around but I wouldn't disassemble anything. That's when they can come up excuses on WHY it wasn't their fault.

[J_PEPIN87]

Originally Posted by midevil1

Take it out and take it over to JP's. I would take off the oil pan and look around but I wouldn't disassemble anything. That's when they can come up excuses on WHY it wasn't their fault.

The worst part about this is that this machine shop is not open anymore.this really sucks looks like ima have to take it apart and look for any signs.any ideas wat could cause this?