true blood build 64 panel lwb to swb

[cslinder01]

hey its time i start a thread. here is what i got




i know it is a lot of work and i would appreciate all the help that i can get. im looking to start cutting in to her around the first of November. in the mean time i am looking for a swb c-10 frame as a replacement for the lwb 3/4 that it has. the plans include cutting the body down to that length. also chopping the top 3 in. and setting it on the ground. i have a decent amount of knowledge on the early Chevy. however im currently in Hawaii and i a little short on material, and access for measurements. any ideas suggestions though and input would help more than you could possibly know. also i will be posting pics of the build here also you can visit my face book for more pics. sorry but my net is a little short. well that is the general idea and i hope to hear form you all soon.

facebook page http://www.facebook.com/photos.php?i...00001145847526

[tiggamonsta]

Trucks on powerblocktv did an episode where they cut down the bed and frame of a c10 PU to make a SWB from a LWB. I think you can order the episodes from there site. http://www.powerblocktv.com/site3/index.php/trucks

[Fursphere]

Panels are rare enough as it is... but to cut up a C30 (1ton) Panel? *gasp*

You could convert it into a 4 door... there is plenty of room between the front doors and the rear wheels.

If you're set on cutting it up, I've got a 1966 C10 Panel. If you need any measurements, just ask. Keep in mind that the C10 Panels have a 7.5 foot bed - so its in between the pickup trucks. I think the one you've got is a 10 foot bed?

Semper Fi

[cslinder01]

i wondering if it is possible to use a fleet bed side to repair the some of the lower rust damage that i have. just a thought i dont know if the curve is the same. if it is then great and some of the damage will be easier to fix. if not then i guess that i do it the hard way

thank you

[Frizzle Fry]

Fixed your pics. You might get some ideas/info from this thread. If it were me I'd make something you can't buy. It's not worth the effort to simply make it into a 1/2 ton panel when those are still available for purchase. Make it into an extra shorty like the linked thread or build a crew cab or 4dr tahoe. You could even install one piece 1/4 windows. Panels are a great start for any number of directions you want to go. They are like a big blank canvas.

Yes you can use fleet bedsides to fix your lower rust issues. Your rear overhang is longer but that's not a problem if you are shortening it.

[cslinder01]

that is a great idea!!!! thats excatly why i started this build theread so early. all ideas are welcome and nothing is set in steel yet. please post more ideas like this. however remember that i am in hawaii and most of the parts have to be shiped from the mainland. and thank you for fixing the pictures.

i love the idea of the 4 door blazer. but i would need help with that one. such as door latchs for the barn doors of the back. make the 2 rear doors suicide. and what would i do with the v in between the 2 doors? i will have to see what is dreamed up for that.

[Captainfab]

Welcome to the forum

I agree that there are several different directions you could go with this. IMO this is a perfect candidate for a 4 door conversion of some sort. There are a few crewcab trucks on here, just do a search and find them. I know there is one here in the Projects and Builds section by member Preacherman5555, as well as a couple in the '60-'66 section. One by Dinos63 and another by 64c20crewcab.

[cslinder01]

i think that you are right. im starting to get the idea that i should turn this build into a 4 door blazer and i thin that is the direction that im going to head in well see how the headache come.next question is what doors pre 63 or post?

[Captainfab]

IMO the '60-'63 doors look the best for the rear doors.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

IMO the '60-'63 doors look the best for the rear doors.

Reduces the "triangle" b-post.

[cslinder01]

the goal would be to remove that pillar all together. im trying to imagine it. maybe devide it in half and attach to front and back doors. just a thought. on the other hand im also just thinking of keeping it as a panel 2 door. and when i get staitioned bac in the contental us looking for a burb to do the 4 door. i dont know how hard it will be to creat a door from nothing (without a donor). but we will see. does any one with a crew cab want to hold a tape mesure to their doors. i i do do the 4 door i will be doing in the same maner as the new extended cabs (sucuide the rears). any thoughts on engeneering them would be helpful.

thank you

[Frizzle Fry]

Take a look at the last few pages of my Tahoe thread. I'm doing just what you describe; pillarless suicide rear doors. B-pillar is part of the rear door with top and bottom latches. Front door latches into front of rear door like new ext cabs. Link. (first pic is photochopped) Fun starts here

[jonzcustomshop]

here is an ambulance converted from one of those panels

[cslinder01]

frizzle- i love your build man do you have some talent. but a few questions? is yours still on the burb frame. what is you wheel base i would like to do mine on a swb truck frame. correct me if im wrong but wasn't the burbs a shade longer than that not quite as long as the lwb? im thinking that i will end up with the rear door centered over the rear wheels. also remember that on the burbs they had the false door. i know not much to go off of but its something. the panel has nothing. also i don't know if you ran in to it but the floor behind the seat raises about 5 inches. what did you use to re create the floor?

jonz- isnt that a burb from what i have seen they offered a burb. same as the panel but with windows? the supports on the interior should be diffrent i would love to build a blaze version but i think that it will be one hell of a build (from a panel) also remember that im in hawaii so no donors, no parts. hell i cant even get cbb pushrods with out a special order.

i am looking at about 10k for the body alone. and roughly another 10 for the frame and drive train.

any thoughts or o by the way's would help more than you could possibly know. i would like as much input befor i hit the point of no return.....................

new pics on the way

[jonzcustomshop]

I believe that the ones I posted pics of started out as panels, I don't think they made a 1 ton lwb burb...

[Captainfab]

That is correct. That one started out as a long wheelbase panel. The '60-'66 Suburbans are the same wheelbase as a short wheelbase pickup, which is 115" and they had only 2 doors.

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

I believe that the ones I posted pics of started out as panels, I don't think they made a 1 ton lwb burb...

Since you're in Hawaii and there are virtually no parts to be found, that does complicate any drastic modifications. You might be restricted to just shortening up what you have. Are there any '73-'87 pickups or Suburbans to be found there that could be used for suspension upgrades?

[cslinder01]

virtually no parts to be found, that does complicate any drastic modifications. You might be restricted to just shortening up what you have.

that is what i was thinking about the doors. since the rust is bad here any of the older truck are fairly far gone. im on the hunt for a swb frame from late 60's. and im looking ad doing a dropmember with a c4 suspension in the front and i am thinking a new rear end from an 05 1/2 ton (maybe) disk brake included, but on the other hand i also thinking maybe a z71 rear and (didn't they have independent rears?) im also on the hunt for a ls1 block to do a ls6 upgrade with a t56...

but im still just kicking around ideas.... thans for the help

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by cslinder01

is yours still on the burb frame. what is you wheel base i would like to do mine on a swb truck frame. correct me if im wrong but wasn't the burbs a shade longer than that not quite as long as the lwb? what did you use to re create the floor?

67-72 Burb wb is the same as lwb trucks, and burbs are ~4" longer overall (longer rear overhang). I shortened my frame from a 127" wb to 115" wb plus removed 8" from the rear. I had a rear floor area already with a kick-up under the rear seat. You would have to fab it to do a 4dr.

Originally Posted by cslinder01

that is what i was thinking about the doors. since the rust is bad here any of the older truck are fairly far gone. im on the hunt for a swb frame from late 60's. and im looking ad doing a dropmember with a c4 suspension in the front and i am thinking a new rear end from an 05 1/2 ton (maybe) disk brake included, but on the other hand i also thinking maybe a z71 rear and (didn't they have independent rears?) im also on the hunt for a ls1 block to do a ls6 upgrade with a t56...

but im still just kicking around ideas.... thans for the help

Sounds to me like you should just keep it simple but still build something you couldn't otherwise buy. If you are going to put in that kind of effort you might as well end up with something unique. Perhaps a blazer proportioned panel? 69-72 blazers are 104" wb and 73-87 are 106".

[Frizzle Fry]

Here's a rough mspaint render of a Blanal and chopped top version (using a touchpad )

[cslinder01]

my electric gremlins



Cadillac engine









with the back cleared


it is going to be a long term project.

i was doing some measuring today... i came up to 38 inches need to be removed. 18 from behind the rear wheels and 18 from in front. seems like a lot. the thought is to match it up with the over hang of a swb and the same wheel base. as well as chopping it 3 inches. any ideas? cutting it that much gives me a 40 inch rear overhang and a 127 wheel base.

anyone with a panel care to take a tape measure to theirs for me?

thank you

[Fursphere]

Mine '66

door frame to rear doors, about center (vertically) on the body: 91"

rear door to rear tire opening (lowest point on the body): 25"

door frame to rear tire opening (lowest point on the body): 31"

By door frame I mean the edge behind the weather stripping.

Hope that helps