which carburetor!

[dbmx66]

im stuck between 3 carbs. idk which one to get.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-7...ductId=1261958

http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-8...oductId=757757

http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-8...ductId=1258508

please help.

all 3 sound good to me, carb would be going on this setup: 355 sbc, 11.5 compression, .575/.575 roller cam, single plane intake, turbo 350 racing trans, 3000 stall, 4.88 rear.
thanks.

[dbmx66]

forget the holley ultra street avenger carb, id be better off with mechanical secondaries, its just whether or not the electric chock or no choke would be better.

i plan on turning this motor into a real beast at some point in the near future, so i would like to have a carb that i can use on that as well.

[dbmx66]

im gonna run the ultra double pumper.


mods, you can delete this thread.

[team39763]

That's the one I probably would have went with...it looks like it has some good features.

[dbmx66]

Originally Posted by team39763

That's the one I probably would have went with...it looks like it has some good features.

holley sed that its a more updated version than the street hp carb.

[prostreetC-10]

Do you need a choke? Is this going in a street vehicle and are you sure of the comp ratio? That's quite a bit.

Those HP carbs are cosmetically appealing to the eye but I have a buddy that does quite a bit on a flow machine. He prefers a milled choke on a street motor over the blended HP body. There is an advantage to having that little piece of metal separating the primary and secondary venturies. Street motors are different from a racing motor that only goes from idle to WOT. A 750 will feed a lot of motor and that thing should spin real quick with that roller valve train.

[dbmx66]

Originally Posted by prostreetC-10

Do you need a choke? Is this going in a street vehicle and are you sure of the comp ratio? That's quite a bit.

Those HP carbs are cosmetically appealing to the eye but I have a buddy that does quite a bit on a flow machine. He prefers a milled choke on a street motor over the blended HP body. There is an advantage to having that little piece of metal separating the primary and secondary venturies. Street motors are different from a racing motor that only goes from idle to WOT. A 750 will feed a lot of motor and that thing should spin real quick with that roller valve train.

im going with the ultra double pumper instead of the street hp and the ultra street avenger.

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

I like Edelbrock Performer Carburetors....

Here is a bunch of choices!!!
http://www.jegs.com/c/Fuel-Carbs-Int...10271/10002/-1

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...uretors&RC=100

[prostreetC-10]

boooooooo booooooooooo

[cableguy0]

I'm pretty sure hes looking for performance. Overlooking the Edelbrock is a wise choice.

[GRX]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

I'm pretty sure hes looking for performance. Overlooking the Edelbrock is a wise choice.

Say no to the AFB clone. No adjustment for secondary airflap opening rate is a huge detractor.

[prostreetC-10]

Atta boys!!!!! Let's get this clown booted for even suggesting an Edelcrock. LOL

Third Day absolutely rocks btw!!!! Course so does Todd Agnew. Maybe we shouldn't boot ya just yet. hehe



Just freshened one up for a guy down the road about 20 mins ago. He made a wise choice too!

[68GMCCustom]

I went with the 750 Street HP...but my truck will spend half the time at the track.

[dbmx66]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I went with the 750 Street HP...but my truck will spend half the time at the track.

holley sed the ultra double pumper was amore updated version of the street hp

[prostreetC-10]

It's acutally not a more updated version of the street HP, it's a more updated version of the classic 4779-9 or 4779C. The body and bowls are cast aluminum instead of cast pooh metal and the blocks and base are billet aluminum. The street HP is all pooh cast metal that is tumbled for a shiny finish. Still a nice carb!

Bottom line is that I know what Holley tech told you but you don't always get accurate info when you call holley tech. The really good guys are in the back dealing with serious and professional racers and don't answer the 800 number for the average joe. I can't believe some of the things I've been told. Ricky is pretty good and has been there a long time.

It's a nice carb. The only thing I can't figure out is that it doesn't appear to have adjustable, screw in emulsions so you are stuck with the fuel curve built into the carb. You can't fine tune it.....at least that is my understanding (that is unless you are brave with a drill). Sometimes that's not a bad thing though. I'd be curious to know the size of the PVCR in the main wells. They are often too small from Holley.

If your wallet allows, spring for that Ultra and buy an edelbrock if you lawn mower needs more CFM.

[bigsnookmaster]

Pro Systems! They made my carb to my vehicle specs and it was awesome right out of the box, and their customer service is first class. .02

[Rodms]

Holley 650 to 750 double pump 11.5 to 1 you not gonna have much vaccum and need to alow for things.

Just caught on to this I thought you were racing something at least buy a 600 not edl!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[dbmx66]

Originally Posted by prostreetC-10

It's acutally not a more updated version of the street HP, it's a more updated version of the classic 4779-9 or 4779C. The body and bowls are cast aluminum instead of cast pooh metal and the blocks and base are billet aluminum. The street HP is all pooh cast metal that is tumbled for a shiny finish. Still a nice carb!

Bottom line is that I know what Holley tech told you but you don't always get accurate info when you call holley tech. The really good guys are in the back dealing with serious and professional racers and don't answer the 800 number for the average joe. I can't believe some of the things I've been told. Ricky is pretty good and has been there a long time.

It's a nice carb. The only thing I can't figure out is that it doesn't appear to have adjustable, screw in emulsions so you are stuck with the fuel curve built into the carb. You can't fine tune it.....at least that is my understanding (that is unless you are brave with a drill). Sometimes that's not a bad thing though. I'd be curious to know the size of the PVCR in the main wells. They are often too small from Holley.

If your wallet allows, spring for that Ultra and buy an edelbrock if you lawn mower needs more CFM.

but in your honest opinion, does the ultra double pumper look like a good carb for street/ strip?

[68GMCCustom]

Originally Posted by dbmx66

holley sed the ultra double pumper was amore updated version of the street hp

of course they did....the "ultra" line is new...and I'd bet they have been told to "push" the new stuff. Now saying its bad...its just not a Street HP.

[prostreetC-10]

The whole "street/strip" term is kinda funny to me. If you have a carb that runs good on the street then it will run good on the strip. The trick is the other way around. You can have a great idle to WOT carb that wont run worth a hoot on the street. This is why guys get into trouble running the 660 center squirters on a street tunnel ram. They have NO primary power valve provision so the cruise/part throttle is a nightmare.

Is this motor built and or has it been running? If so, what carb have you been running? Where do you plan to get gas at? 11.5:1 is crazy compression for the street. Big thing is what head are you running? They are your biggest factor in determining volumetric efficency which helps determine your CFM needs. Between a little stall and a lot of gears, the DP should be fine. Some guys will swear by a vacuum carb on the street and in a heavy rig but I just plain love the double pumpers.

To bigsnookmaster and his pro system carb: They build some really, really nice stuff. As a matter of fact places like the carb shop, pro systems, bigs will take an old cast Holley and make it run circles around most anything you can buy off the Holley shelf because they build the carb for your exact entended use instead of putting a GENERAL tune in it. Downside is you really pay for it. I know guys that have spent more just on machining and tuning than what they paid for the carb. you get what you pay for. MOST people do just fine with an off the shelf carb and then tune with what tuning components are built into the carb like PV size and type, jetting, shooters.....etc

[prostreetC-10]

You also have to realize that the gains hyped by the HP main body swap outs are best case....just like any other product testimonial. I have seen dyno runs where the HP made little if any gains. Granted, A complete carb like the standard or street HP will give you more than just a blended main body.

[dbmx66]

Originally Posted by prostreetC-10

You also have to realize that the gains hyped by the HP main body swap outs are best case....just like any other product testimonial. I have seen dyno runs where the HP made little if any gains. Granted, A complete carb like the standard or street HP will give you more than just a blended main body.

what you mean by blended main body?

[prostreetC-10]

This is one of my carbs. The venturies are smoothed out and the choke tower/horn has been completely removed. Designed for better flow. I think looks really sell these carbs over the performance gains. They flat look cool.

However, as I said earlier, there are benefits to having a divider between the front and rear venturies when running on the street. You want the strongest signal possible going to just the front where your cruise/part throttle is and where your carb spends MOST of its time. This is why something as simple as milling the choke off can give you great performance because it still keeps that little piece of metal dividing the two.

[dbmx66]

the carb i got, is mechanical secondaries and electric choke, is it possible to take the choke off and mill that piece off? cuz i go to votech for machining , i could do that if its posiible.

[cableguy0]

You can remove the choke stuff. Its done all the time. Just be careful and make sure you dont end up with metal shavings in bad places. I would take the entire carb apart before cutting anything. The less places there are for a piece of metal to get trapped the better off you are..