Best way to fill bed seams in 64 SWB

[bill2509]

Im thinking about filling the bed seams in my 1964 Chevy shortwide anyone have any experience doing this? Do they have to be welded or can you use a seam sealer? Any Help would be appreciated. Thanks Bill

[Captainfab]

Welding them would be the best way to fill the seams. However one member here has used JB Weld on similar jobs with good results. You could use another product like maybe panel bonding adhesive, but I don't know if that can be used to fill a large gap like that. You'll want something with excellent adhesion and that sets up solid. Also you will need to have the seam to be filled extremely clean.

[63 extreme low]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Welding them would be the best way to fill the seams. However one member here has used JB Weld on similar jobs with good results. You could use another product like maybe panel bonding adhesive, but I don't know if that can be used to fill a large gap like that. You'll want something with excellent adhesion and that sets up solid. Also you will need to have the seam to be filled extremely clean.

I agree with CaptainFab, welding would be best. A few years ago Nissan had a TSB on repairing some "issues" on new cars with a two part epoxy from 3M. I will see if I can find you some more info.

[markeb01]

Here's the JB Weld thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=369713

I've never done anything as big as a fleetside bed seam, but have never experienced a failure with JB Weld in any of the repairs attempted. The key to success is absolutely cleanliness and a good rough sandblasted seam/gap. If you choose to try this technique, regular JB Weld is preferred as it has higher tensile strength than JB Kwik. You can save some money by purchasing the large economy version called Industro Weld. It's the same thing as regular or original JB Weld, just in a bigger tube:

Amazon.com: J-B Weld 8280 Industro Weld 10 oz.:...
I would agree welding something this big and visible would be preferable, however the amount of labor needed to accomplish this without warping would certainly be a significant task (at least with my welding skills).

[Alan's Classic]

It took me about 2.0 hours to weld one of my bedsides with minimal warpage. The only thing I would worry about in the expansion rate of JB weld compared to metal. In sever heating and cooling it could cause problems. Maybe not just my .02.

[markeb01]

I would share the expansion concern on such a long seam. The longest seam I ever filled with JB Weld was the front fender gap, which is only about a foot long and almost a continuous curve. I wish I had thought to fill my front hood seam before my repaint last year. I would liked to have known if it would fail with the twisting and flexing of the hood over such a long expanse. Unfortunately now that it's finished I don't have the enthusiasm to experiment.

[bill2509]

Thanks guys for the suggestions. It is appreciated. Does anyone have pics of the welding process on a bed side or a hood? Thanks Again Bill

[Alan's Classic]

I'm on my phone right now so I can't get you any pics, but somewhere in my 103 pages of my build I have done both the hood and bed. Just search my thread if you get time. The link is in my signature. If I remember I'll get you some pics tonight.

[bill2509]

Thanks Alan, I found the pictures of your bed side, very nice work, is there a lot of warping that occures and do you have any thoughts on the best way to grind out the weld? Any Advice would be Greatly Appreciated, Thanks Bill

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by bill2509

Thanks Alan, I found the pictures of your bed side, very nice work, is there a lot of warping that occures and do you have any thoughts on the best way to grind out the weld? Any Advice would be Greatly Appreciated, Thanks Bill

Bill, I don't know your level of experience or equipment. I jumped around a lot to let the heat disapate. My welds were mostly 3/8 long if I remember. That also depends on how you have your welder set at. I made some longer and it was too much heat. I also did my hood and weill be doing my fenders in time. Here is a pic of what I used to clean up the welds. I used the 1991 on a straight die grinder to get the bulk of the weld cleaned up then followed up with the 1407 roloc. Good luck. If you have any other questions, just ask.

[bill2509]

Alan Thanks for all the info, I really appreciate it. Gives me something to think about, I'm still new to the autobody world, but I have been a structure mechanic for over 20 years for a major airline, My welder is a Lincoln Weld Pack HD100 converted to shielded gas from a flux-core, welds really smooth, I do have one last question, When you use slick sand do you apply it direct to metal or do use a primer first? Thanks Bill

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by bill2509

Alan Thanks for all the info, I really appreciate it. Gives me something to think about, I'm still new to the autobody world, but I have been a structure mechanic for over 20 years for a major airline, My welder is a Lincoln Weld Pack HD100 converted to shielded gas from a flux-core, welds really smooth, I do have one last question, When you use slick sand do you apply it direct to metal or do use a primer first? Thanks Bill

Sounds like you have a good unit to weld with. I have used one before and liked it. Slick sand has an excellent adhesion to bare metal, aluminum and galvanized metal if I remember correctly. I've used DP90 before but it is expensive and most all of it ends up sanded off when I start the filler and repair work. What ends up on the metal is filler and slick sand. DP90 is very thin and has no build. In all of my reading slick sand is excellent. Not everyone likes it, but most do. I swear by it. It is thick and hard to spray unless you have a 2.0 tip or larger. I also reduce it 10% to make it flow out.

[bill2509]

Alan, thanks for the input on slicksand, I welded in my wheel arche braces today and made final repairs on lower flanges, got around to first wipe on inner bedside repairs and blocked, ready for second swipe and block, as soon as the humidity and temp cools a little I should be ready for my first attempt at spraying slicksand and blocking I do have a 2.0 HVLP for the slick sand. I Think I am going to limit the slick sand on outer bed side only and shoot a 2K urethane primer on the inside of the bed panel, any thoughts?

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by bill2509

Alan, thanks for the input on slicksand, I welded in my wheel arche braces today and made final repairs on lower flanges, got around to first wipe on inner bedside repairs and blocked, ready for second swipe and block, as soon as the humidity and temp cools a little I should be ready for my first attempt at spraying slicksand and blocking I do have a 2.0 HVLP for the slick sand. I Think I am going to limit the slick sand on outer bed side only and shoot a 2K urethane primer on the inside of the bed panel, any thoughts?

Sounds like a good plan. Did you read the label on the slick sand. Just to make sure I didn't forget anything. I don't have a can to look at right now.

Any pics of the progress?

[bill2509]

I do have some pics, I will try and upload them later today.

[bill2509]

Originally Posted by bill2509

I do have some pics, I will try and upload them later today.

Here are some pics of Inner Patch Panels Before Welding, Didnt get a chance to upload new pics tonight. Bill

[Alan's Classic]

Very well done.

[bill2509]

Alan, can you give some advice on blocking and quide coating slick sand? Thanks Bill

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by bill2509

Alan, can you give some advice on blocking and quide coating slick sand? Thanks Bill

Here try this video for now. I have more just got to find them. Let me know if this helps.

1965 Chevy C10 Build :: M2U00089.flv video by...

[Alan's Classic]

Here are some more videos I made a while back. I had full intentions of making DVD's, but haven't done it yet. These are my first takes. I wasn't real happy with them. They are not bad, just have to get over being camera shy. Also get things in order and present more info.

[bill2509]

Alan, Thanks that is really cool!! also looked at your picture album, looks really great. If im understanding this right, you spray the slicksand, let it dry and then spray quide coat and start blocking, right? Sorry to ask so many questions but I do appreciate your advice its obvious to me you know your business. Thanks Again, Bill

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by bill2509

Alan, Thanks that is really cool!! also looked at your picture album, looks really great. If im understanding this right, you spray the slicksand, let it dry and then spray quide coat and start blocking, right? Sorry to ask so many questions but I do appreciate your advice its obvious to me you know your business. Thanks Again, Bill

Thaks Bill, I don't know it all. Just what I have learned so far and what works for me.

You can dust your guide coat when the primer is wet or dry. It doesn't matter it all has to dry prior to blocking. Don't rush the blocking stage, take time and let the paper work. Blocking, especially the final blocking is critical to how the paint turns out.

Ask all the questions you want. We are here to help each other. If I don't know I will say so and will try to find an answer.

Alwas read the labels on the products and possibly do some searches on it. If you had 100 bodymen doing the same task you would get 100 different ways of doing it.

[bill2509]

Thanks Again, that answers my question. I will take your advice and do the research, If i can every help you let me know, Bill

[bill2509]

Alan can you recommend a good source for a pair of reproduction front fenders, and door skins left and right. I'm a little concerned about the fit of repop skins and fenders but it is really tough to fing NOS Thanks Again Bill

[shortbed70]

I just started the welding process last night so I will post up some pics in my build later tonight. I spot welded about every 6" then went back and split the difference then did that one more time then spot welded small sections togather only about 1" long at a time.