need help double flaring a brake line

[oldblue1968chevy]

http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspensio...etool/ft-2.htm

going by this, I cant seem to get anything done, my tool is loaned from autozone, so its probably junk already..

Anyhow its not doing anything and seems to be slipping? idk here are some pics i'll keep trying, is that the correct order (in pic) for 1st step, it doesn NOTHING..

thanks..

[Chevydude56]

This might be better instructions

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html

It helps the take the edge off the outside of the cut end of the tubing with a file

[oldblue1968chevy]

Im trying on 3/8", The black thing doesnt have a shoulder like the smaller sizes, is this normal?

I switched to like 1/4" (with a shoulder on black piece) and i did a flare, an ugly one but it worked!

So I think I have something wrong, the bigger size black pieces have no shoulder..

see pic

[cparman]

been there done that. There should be directions that say to turn the insert over. This is the amount of brake line that should be exposed out of the line clamp. The next step is to put the insert into the line, and tighten the clamp to crush the line. The next step is to remove the insert, and tighten the clamp again. Buy a short piece of line, and compare what you have done to the premade piece. Most directions are a bit confusing. practice on the piece of premade a few time and you will get the hang of it. IF this old dumb butt can do it, I AM SURE you can!

Chip

[LarryMcK9]

I had problems with 5/16" slipping. I put the caliper to the tubing and discovered that the tubing the parts house sold me was 8mm with 5/16" fittings. Got the metric loaner from Autozone and all went well. Maybe the same problem.

Larry

[oldblue1968chevy]

Box says SAE.


Im pretty sure im doing it all right, check the pic, shouldnt the 'instert' have 2 'shoulders'

I just think I got something wrong..

[oldblue1968chevy]

I highlighted the differences in red, if that helps anyone.

[eagleuh1]

Thats a good point on the size. I couldn't get my AZ kit to double flare either. Found a shop in town to do it for me. I'll have to measure my tubing to see if thats the case. Good luck.

[oldblue1968chevy]

What kinda shop did ya take it to? I think imma try to take mine somewhere also...just a pita and its not working for me!!!

Will try again tomorow/take it to shop...what kinda shop will be able to do this, RIGHT?

[Shane]

the kind that sells pre-bent brake kits with fittings and flares already on the line ...

[oldblue1968chevy]

Ahh not you again telling me that!!

I must do the most expensive hardest longest way to do things on these trucks, thats the #1 Rule!

No really whats wrong here lol

[Chevydude56]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Im trying on 3/8", The black thing doesnt have a shoulder like the smaller sizes, is this normal?

I switched to like 1/4" (with a shoulder on black piece) and i did a flare, an ugly one but it worked!

So I think I have something wrong, the bigger size black pieces have no shoulder..

see pic

Are you making a 3/8 fuel line? I have not been able to double flare 3/8 steel with that style tool . I have not had any problems with a single flare and low pressure fuel system

as cparman said the shoulder is used to gauge how far the tubing sticks out of the clamp . no step is required on the 3/8"

[oldblue1968chevy]

No, I was just practicing on it.

I will be doing 5/16 brake line, double flare.

So no step on the 5/16 either?

Ok..I guess I just need to cut my good line up to practice on lol..I almost wanna go out in the shop and keep trying at 9pm! lol

[steves1967]

I had that exact same kit, and had nothing but problems with it. I finally just put the bar clamp in a bench vise, then I could get it tight enough to not slip. bevel the inside edge of the tubing with the reamer or a pocket knife, the tube should extend past the clamp by the height of the shoulder (the area you circled in red). Drop the black insert into the tubing, and compress it down till the black inverted flare rests on the clamp. Back it off, pull the invert flare piece out and then just run the standard flare back down till it bubbles out.

In my expierence that kit is a piece of junk, I got one like this off ebay and have had alot of success with it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WOLCO...motiveQ5fTools

[oldblue1968chevy]

I just need it to work good 1 time, maybe 2 times..lol

[chipflyer]

I just finished a bunch of new lines on a project and started with one of those cheap kits, couldn't make a good double flare to save my soul. Bought a Rigid 345-DL used on Ebay, (it came highly recommended) and now couldn't accidentally make one that is not perfect. I threw the cheap piece of crap in the trash that same day.
Buy a good flare tool and you will be amazed at how easy it is to make flares.

Jeff

[1968CHEVYC10]

I did my own flares, I tried the loan-a-tool thing with all the local parts stores and I broke every tool, cheap junk. So I finally went and bought me a decent one from snap on, it was $50 and got the job done.

[Hubscrub]

look at this is you haven't already67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=4145453

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Im trying on 3/8", The black thing doesnt have a shoulder like the smaller sizes, is this normal?

I switched to like 1/4" (with a shoulder on black piece) and i did a flare, an ugly one but it worked!

So I think I have something wrong, the bigger size black pieces have no shoulder..

see pic

The anvils are correct. The bigger anvil do not have a reduced shoulder. The bigger the tube, the greater the stick out. Chamfer the inside and outside. Oil the tube. Tighten the closest clamp first, then the furthest. There is no good reason that kit will not work. Patience and exactness is the key.

[motornut]

it worked for me but i've seen the clamp be bent and not tighten in those kits,but they do work....more then 1 or 2 times......and you can snap off the pin on the smaller bits,and bend the U,be sure to keep it straight when tightening

[chevy_mike]

First question, why are you using 5/16" line for brake lines? The two most common sizes are 3/16" for lines going to disc brakes and 1/4" for lines going to drum brakes. Many change over to 3/16" line for everything, which will work fine.

I have done hundreds of flairs over the years and it took me a little while to find the right technic to doing these. First, you must use the correct adapter for the line fitting. If you use the incorrect size, you will NEVER get your line to flair correctly.

Here are the steps I do each and every time I do a flair.

1. Cut line, debur the inside AND outside edge of the cut edge. I now use a countersink bit for the inside part and a fine flat file to do the outside. Want a slight bevel to the end.

2. Slide on the flair nut (sucks when you get the perfect flair and realize you forgot the nut... Doh!)

3. Place the line into the flair tool and tighten the wing nut closest to the which hole the tube is in. Just snug up the other end to slightly hold it until you get the depth set correctly.

4. Take the adapter that is CORRECT for the line size and using the large round end, place it flat on the flair tool, next to the line sticking out. Adjust the end of the tube until it is the same height as this large step. Tighten the slightly snugged wing nut to lock the tube in.

5. Put a small amount of brake fluid or WD40 onto the pin on the adapter and place into the end of the tube.

6. Put the compressing part of the tool onto the tube holder and place the pointed end into the dimple in the adapater. Tighten until the the adapter is flush with the tube holder.

7. Remove the adapter, using a twist and pull motion, NOT a rocking motion. On the 3/16" line adapter, you will break the pin off in the tube if you try to rock it out.

8. Now take the compression tool part and put into the end of the tube. Tighten down until you have a good flair that is flush around the outside of the tube. This takes a little practice to get right. Don't overtighten as you can split the tube and have to start over again.

9. Remove tube from tool and inspect to make sure no burrs or splits are in the end of the flair.

10. Install on vehicle and what I have found that helps keeping them from leaking the first time is to tighen the line up fairly snug, back it off a half turn and then retighten again. This helps to "set" the flair correctly and since I started doing this technic, I haven't had a fitting leak.

Good luck and it takes some practice once you get the right steps. Also, if you can do the flairs off the vehicle and place the took into a vice (using the long end of the tool to tighten into the vice), it makes getting nice flair even easier as you are not fighting trying to hold the tool as you tighten the compression part.

There you go... 10 easy steps.

BTW, I have been using that same kit (mine was from NAPA) for the last 15 years. It's not the tool... it's the operator...

[eagleuh1]

Mine was a power stearing hose that I made up for the 5.3 pump to the 68 steering box. The shop is in Russellville Ar. and they make custom hoses and tubes for anything and everything and also OEM stuff. Out by the airport.

[cparman]

you will never get a good brake pedal with 5/16 line!! Chevy mike is right!! 3/16 to the front, and 1/4 to the back!!

Get a cold beer, your tubing flare kit, make a few really ugly flare, and compare them to the premade line I suggested.

COME ON BROTHER, I KNOW YOU CAN DO THIS!!

[oldblue1968chevy]

So ya sure on the lines? I got bigger lines going to rear than the fronts..

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

So ya sure on the lines? I got bigger lines going to rear than the fronts..

1/4" is bigger than 3/16".