When is it too much rust?

[db65]

Hello everyone I'm new to the site (posting that is) I've been lurking around the past 3-4 months. I just got this 65 GMC lwb truck for free but it's got a lot of rust. It's been sitting since about 85 with the bed full of junk so there wasn't anything left of the bed. I guess it was my barn find minus the barn. lol When is it too much in your opinion. My plans are for drop members (Porterbuilt) smallblock w/700r4, disc brakes, 5 lug wheels shop truck type look in suede paint. Even though I don't have anything invested in this truck should I look for a better starting point. I know this is going to need a different bed, at least 1 door maybe a fender and hood. I see I can get patch panels for most of the truck but not sure if that will work for this truck yet. I just got it home last night so I haven't got to tear into it yet. The frame seems solid but the hulk hauler guy who brought it home thinks the frame is toast?? I think he just wanted another car for the scraper. Anyway your thoughts or opinions are appreciated.

When I found it

At my house now

The bed, whats left of it anyway

front part of the bed

drs side floor board

bottom part of inside of pas door

right front corner of the hood

pas door

pass door sill

complete dash

[6863m]

I would think the frame would be just fine cleaned up and coated. I had nearly the same rust and all I can say if you can't weld and have to have someone doing the welding then you better be prepared for a very large bill to have it done. I think I spent about $8500 for just welding parts. But If I could have welded it really would not have been that bad just for the parts.

[jku72]

You Washington and western guys are spoiled. Thats NOT rust!!!!!!
Next time your in New England, check out some real rust.
That truck is an easy resto.

[tantrumpipeline]

Originally Posted by jku72

You Washington and western guys are spoiled. Thats NOT rust!!!!!!
Next time your in New England, check out some real rust.
That truck is an easy resto.

try northern alberta, where the roads are heavily salted 6months of the year, that trucks rough but not rotten, here they seem to miss that stage and gostraight to extreme rot. I'd say it really depends on your skills welding, investment plans, and overall patience. Myself personally the point of no return is when you find cheaper better shape parts or you find spots that are notorious for further issues, window frame rot, PO repaired parts with excessive bondo loading etc, you have good plans, have fun with it. My build is somewhat of a low budget build and my biggest issue to date is patience and deciding this very thing, so far the rot is being replaced, rather take more time to complete than do a half ass job and end up needing to restore again in the near future.

[Hottrucks]

I would open all the doors and power wash it from the top down...I would restore that in a heart beat...do'nt even worry about that bed floor....I would even pull the bed before I washed it...i think you have alot better truck than you might think minus the surface rust


Hell I would even wash the hole thing down with CLR and a scotch brite slap a set of headights in it get it running and run the crap out of the pantina maybe even find a set of bling wheels off craigslist for cheap then start your build from there

Or your could send me your address and I'll send a truck to pick it up...


Oh by the way welcome to the madness!!

[aerotruk63]

Rust belt, please, come to the rust eyelet. The hole you look though is the good part! We have bridges condemned here because of corrosion. The 1976 Olympic Stadium nicked named " The Big Owe" is corroding and falling apart. Were still paying for that big toilet. Ask any members who have visited this province about our road conditions. There was a big divot at the border between the provinces of Quebec and Ontario, on the Quebec side, that was so ridiculed, the provincial government finally repaired to save what little reputation they had left. Don't talk to me about how bad you've got it.

[Jdeere16]

The biggest question you need to ask yourself is how long do you plan on working on it. Sometimes you can get blinded by a free score, you get excited, tear it down and then you hit the "wall" after you realize how much work you really have to do. Another major decision is your skill level in metal fabrication, if you can't weld or don't plan on trying then get your pocket book out. Floors and rockers are the most common areas of rust, there are patch panels and even new panels available for almost every part of these trucks. So weigh your costs out and evaluate your patience level. Another option is to sand it down real quick, shoot some primer on it, and sell it. Then buy a cleaner staring point. It all comes down to time and money........

[gulffishin]

You're ok as long as you can find replacement parts for your rust. If you have rust above your windshield, or in your door post areas you're kinda screwed... They don't make replacement parts for those areas as far as I know.

[Iroc87]

Welll considering you got that truck for free and the fact that i jumped on this one for 300, I would say it is not bad at all.

[Iroc87]

I like the one looking up from the bottom of the floor the best. Here is a few more.

[gulffishin]

^^ Some guys have all the luck^^ Where are you all finding those trucks for that price?

People around me want $500 for a rusted out cab.

[Captainfab]

I would say that truck isn't beyond repair, as long as there isn't any rust above the windshield. What I recommend is having at least the frame sandblasted. That's the best and easiest way to see how bad the metal is, and the best way to clean it up. You'll want to get some primer on it right away though, otherwise It will start to rust again, especially over there where you're at. I would get the body blasted as well if there is a compentent blaster in your area.

Another thing to consider is, if you can't weld currently, this might be an opportunity to learn. Do you have a community college nearby that might have night or weekend welding classes? You can weld autobody sheetmetal just fine with a 110 volt MIG welder.

[db65]

Thanks for the replys, I guess thats what I was looking to hear. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't "blinded" by getting a freebee. Captainfab that's pretty much my plan. I've got a 110 mig so I thought this would be a good time to improve my welding skills. This is not going to be a "show truck" this one's a driver. I've got a 32 Ford I show now, which is fun but I also would like something I can drive and not worry too much about it. I got the bed and hood off last night now on to the front sheet metal. Can anyone let me know where all the bolts are to remove the front sheet metal. I want to take it off in one piece. I know theres more bolts than what I see on the firewall for the inner fenderwells. Do the cowl corners need to come off to get to other bolts?

My 32 Roadster at a photo shoot in May for 2011 Calendar

[Captainfab]

Yes the cowl corners will need to come off to remove 2 bolts at the top of the fenders. Then there are bolts at the lower rear of both the inner and outer fenders. You will also need to remove the small section where the steering column shaft passes thru the inner fender. And of course there are bolts at either side of the radiator support. It will come off easier with the bumper removed also.

Very nice '32 Do you ever bring it over this way to shows? Which calendar is it going to be in?

[db65]

I've only had it around the Tacoma area. I got invited to the Salem Roadster show so I'll be at that Feb 2011. It's going to be in the calendar for Randy's Ring & Pinion.

[db65]

I see there are a lot of places to buy replacement panels. Who have you found to have the best fit? I've heard stories about overseas stuff that doesn't come close to fitting. My radiator support is rotted off at the frame, I need the bottom half of both front fenders, door skins for both doors, outer portion of both sides of the floors with rockers, front panel of the bed, tailgate, and rear quarters. It may be cheaper to just find a different bed but no luck so far.

[Captainfab]

Most all of the repair panels and replacement parts are made overseas. However there seems to be some inconsistencies with them. Unfortunately it seems as though this is what we have to choose from. I've heard that Tabco is supposed to have some domestic made parts, but I haven't seen any for some time. The one area where you will be able to find good quality USA made parts, is for the bed.....except for fleetside bedsides. That would be from Mar-K. In fact they have a sale going on right now in the 'Vendors Marketplace'

I just recently ordered some bedside repair panels from another vendor here 'Topbananaparts'. When I receive them, I will let everyone know how they look and fit. I'm not sure if those parts are still on sale from Top Banana, but they were a good deal, and are supposed to be the better quality overseas parts.

I have bought repair parts before from one of the big truck parts suppliers with hit or miss on the quality and fit. My advise would to be to order from who you feel comfortable with, and if you don't like the quality of the parts you receive, send them back. That's about the only way to get the message back, that we won't accept the crap parts.

[Frizzle Fry]

Looks to me like the frame is just fine (rust wise) from what I can see in the pics. For good used parts in the Portland/Vancouver area I like these:
http://www.dansclassic.com/index.cfm
http://www.dctrucks.net/
http://www.allamericanclassics.com/

In Olympia, you cannot beat the customer service at http://classicheartbeat.com/

[ratty 46]

To much rust is when YOU, not others, think it's to much. Everyone has a skill set that might or might not enable them to repair it .... you decide.

If your into rust then F*^%$-it. Go rusty.

I dig patina rust but no holes. That's me though.

Best of luck.

RATTY 46

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Truck looks ok rust wise to me looks totally savable.

[tapeworm]

Be sure to check out the cab mounts.

If you need a complete cab mount (or mounts), and not just covers, then the cab must come off. If the cab is coming off, then might as well keep your eyes peeled for a better cab.

With that being said, that cab does not really look that bad. That actually is about the same shape as my "good" cab.

[M5-]

I'm just finishing doing the cab mounts on my 65. I bought all my parts from Mikes Bump and Grind. Super guy to deal with and all the parts are Triplus. The front cab mounts fit great but the rears were way off probably due to the fact that the rears fit from 60-72 where the fronts are for 60-66 only. The material on the front mounts is way thicker than the rears as well. I used some of the other parts like the inner footwells and they fit pretty good. Be prepared to do some forming to get everything to fit.

M5