Sad Sad Day

[chuck3026]

Unfortunately the day has come where I need to outsource work on my truck. I am need someone to finish wiring in my bladed fusebox that I acquired through EZ Wiring (Big mistake). Also I have broken the alternator bolt and ez out bit inside the block so I'm thinking a machinist is in order. Anyone in the Fort Worth, Crowley, Burleson area who comes highly recommended for these issues? Thx in advance

[ChevLoRay]

Sorry for your troubles.

Your post makes me think that my OEM-type wiring harness from M&H was a good thing to do, if the blade-type is making your job an "issue". You'd think that anything designed to be a user-friendly replacement would be a virtual plug-n-play type of experience.

[chuck3026]

No doubt. The product looks quality and solid but not user friendly like a Painless or other front running brand. Live and learn I guess...

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by chuck3026

Also I have broken the alternator bolt and ez out bit inside the block so I'm thinking a machinist is in order. Anyone in the Fort Worth, Crowley, Burleson area who comes highly recommended for these issues? Thx in advance

Sorry to hear about your trouble. If you don't mind paying for shipping, I would be happy to "attempt" the stud/ezout removal for you. It really will depend on how bad the ezout is buried in the part. Unfortunately, ezouts can make the whole situation worse, when you drill through the stud and insert the ezout, it tends to spread the stud out into the threads. Making it more difficult to remove the broken portion. I usually just weld a bolt or washer (depending on where it's located) to the broken stud, then add additional heat if necessary. They usually come right out. If I can help you, let me know

[71 super]

None of the you make it kits are easy. Alot of people use painless, but the experience I had with one on a guy's truck was not painless in fact it was plain aggrevating- anytime you have buy a new harness and have to use parts off a used harness in order for everything to hook up and work correctly. The only time, in my opinion, one should buy one of those kits iis if they are doing a full out custom with computer control and power everything. If you want a stock type harness these are not the way to go- M&H or American Auto Wire offer current spec updated wires and absolute plug and play install, 2 hours give or take and you can do a entire truck and be driving down the road. EZ, painful and the other make your own harnesses will be much more time involved, plus cutting the firewall to fit, cutting wires, grouping and covering in some form or fashion. yellow and blue crimp on connectors are not my idea of a nice set up. Again my opinion- and if you install "correctly" you will have much more invested in supplies than if you had bought a pre made harness.

[lakeroadster]

I would agree that for a bone stock application that buying an OEM style harness is the way to go.

However, that being said, I have used (2) Painless Kits and had no problems with either of them. I did contact their tech. support people a few times, and they were very courteous and helpful.

The fact that you need to make your own terminations allows you to route the wires in a very organized manner and then cut them to fit. Also everthing that was needed was supplied by Painless, except a crimping tool. I realy have nothing but accolades for Painless, good product and good people.

The insight that Chuck gives about EZ Wiring is very helpful, thanks Chuck. I had considered buying an EZ Wiring harness for my 65 C10 to save a few bucks, I think I will stick with Painless. I plan to move the fuse box into my console for ease of access and I have a lot of custom, non stock compopnents, therefore an OEM style won't work.

Thanks again Chuck for your post.

[onetoncrewcab]

So....what is the problem with the EZ Wiring harness? I used a universal one in my CJ-7 Jeep and I got it all figured out on my own except for the light switch. A friend of mine got that figured out.

I had to reuse one part of the harness for the windshield wiper and another part for the heater. Otherwise, everything else was on the EZ.

I was going to wire my 71 Chevy with the same kit.

Considering I hate working on electrical, I still got it figured out. Was actually sort of fun now that I think about it.

Mike

[ChevLoRay]

Let's face it. When it comes to electrical systems and wiring issues, nothing can be a more fearsome task to some people. For others, it's a walk in the park. If you are one who has some trepidation regarding wiring/electrical issues, you need to consider the best possible "plug-n-play" wiring harnesses. It isn't that I'm uncomfortable with wiring....I bought the M&H harnesses from Wes at Classic Heartbeat. I don't regret it. As for the old harnesses.... they're not destroyed. Everything was unplugged and unattached properly. It's just old wiring and there's too much at risk to spend megabux on a vehicle and then expect a 40+ year old wiring system to function w/o any worries.

[JRBECK64]

Sounds like you need to put some distance between you and your truck (That Way you dont brake it anymore). Sorry to hear about the problems your having. If I were closer I would help you out with your Electrical Problems as I was an Electrician for 25 Years working on Airplanes. Remember you have 12VDC and a ground in most cases and if you have a lighted probe and you brake it down to power and ground it becomes pretty easy that is if you know how to read a schematic or a Wiring Diagram. Anyway good luck with your problems, I broke an easy out in a Toyota I had it was one of the bolts holding the Thermostat cover in place and I went to the store and got a C Clamp and clamped it. I sold it like that at 200K miles. I really hate braking off easy outs.

JRBECK64

[70cst]

Originally Posted by chuck3026

Unfortunately the day has come where I need to outsource work on my truck. I am need someone to finish wiring in my bladed fusebox that I acquired through EZ Wiring (Big mistake). Also I have broken the alternator bolt and ez out bit inside the block so I'm thinking a machinist is in order. Anyone in the Fort Worth, Crowley, Burleson area who comes highly recommended for these issues? Thx in advance

To his second question...any ideas for chuck3026???

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by 70cst

To his second question...any ideas for chuck3026???

I offered to fix it if he sends it to me, flat rate priority both ways and I'll fix it for free 20+ years as a machinist/toolmaker.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 70cst

To his second question...any ideas for chuck3026???

3 possibilities:

Sharp chisel, ez out's are brittle...wear safety glasses and goggles

carbide drill bit

grinding stone on a dremmel, you'll go thru lots of stones to get past the ez out

it's already broke, so the worst that can happen you will have to drill and tap the hole one size larger...once you get the ez out out

[onetoncrewcab]

Originally Posted by chuck3026

I have broken the alternator bolt and ez out bit inside the block

Originally Posted by mcbassin

I offered to fix it if he sends it to me, flat rate priority both ways and I'll fix it for free 20+ years as a machinist/toolmaker.

It looks like to me he broke the bolt going into the engine block. I am guessing the long one on the bottom? If that is the case, it may be a little difficult to priority mail the engine block to you.

Unless I am reading it wrong...

Mike

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by onetoncrewcab

It looks like to me he broke the bolt going into the engine block. I am guessing the long one on the bottom? If that is the case, it may be a little difficult to priority mail the engine block to you.

Unless I am reading it wrong...

Mike

Sorry,
I'm not the best with reading comprehension....my bad. Well, in that case sorry but you can't ship the engine. Duh! I would help if I was closer. Still have your local class a welder tig weld a washer or bolt to the ezout first, get it out of the way if possible, then try the bolt itself. You can use a heat shrink heater gun to heat the area around the stud to help free it up. Maybe penetrating oil? good luck! sorry I can't read.

[Shane]

ive installed both painless and ez wiring and there isn't a nickel's worth of difference other than painless being about 3 times more expensive ...

[Pick]

Originally Posted by 70cst

To his second question...any ideas for chuck3026???

A pencil grinder with a 1/8" carbide burr will get through the EZ-out (not easily, but not terribly difficult either)........but keep in mind that in a through hole, lots of chips and chunks will end up inside the block at this point. You may need to pull the pan afterward to keep the stuff from circulating.

You may be able to shatter the EZ-out to get it if you can't cut through it.....but you may just drive it deeper.......it's somewhat of a gamble either way. If you are wiling to waste a steel grinding burr or drill bit, you can try to "cut" the EZ-out with the steel burr and keep going 'til they both turn red/orange.........THEN shatter the EZ-out after you've work-hardened it. The danger here is walking off-center while you're pushing on the burr or drill and wiping out the threads of the bolt hole...........so don't really recommend it.

I can try to help talk you through it if you want to attempt to get the EZ-out out and the bolt out......but I'm going to need more information so I know where you are and how much "wiggle room" you have to work with. If you have enough room between the EZ-out and the bolt threads....and a small enough burr....you can grind around the EZ-out rather than having to grind through it. Then you're simply left with the stuck bolt you started with and a slightly bigger hole in it.

Penetrating oil, heat, etc. usually help. (you probably already knew that)

If you end up with damaged threads, you can still heli-coil most bolt holes on the block and be OK.

For what it's worth......I'm a machinist for an airline and I end up removing WAY too many broken bolts and studs in a week's time. (as well as broken extractors and taps too.)

[Clyde65]

Since you are on Crowley, go East on 1187 past Rendon "S" curves, Mabry Automotive, see Trey if he cant do it he can tell you where to get it done. Phone is 817-463-1155. this is for the broken stud, not sure if he would want to do the wiring harness.

I used that and my dad used that ( EZ Wiring) on his, what a beating, but I think because there was many more wires than what is needed and it is a universal, but they work and they are safer than the 40+yo original.

[chuck3026]

Yep it's the long bolt into the block. it's broken 1/8" into the block so nothing to grab onto. The ez out snapped flush as well. I am thinking I need a machinist with some special angle head drill or such. I have parts to trade or cash if anyone local to Fort Worth can help.

The harness is just not user friendly in that you have to build it up with your own connections which to me is a pain. I am so frustrated I had to walk away. I will pay for someone to walk me through it.

Lastly this is the best ( without a doubt ) resource for truck fans. I have never been disappointed by the support here. You guys are GREAT! Thx so much...