"trans am" style suspension

[mexgrhd68]

ok suspension gurus, i have a 68 short fleetside 1/2 ton....now, im gonna do a static drop, but i want it to handle like the old school camaros, the "trans am" racing style. Im gonna put 2 1/2" drop spindles and i wanna use 3/4 ton springs with maybe 1 coil cut for the front plus add sway bar..now...for the rear, would coil over shocks be best for this type of suspension? as i want it to handle like the camaros, i know it wont be the same as 1, but maybe pretty close...what do u guys think??? I dont plan on racing, i just want it to "handle" when needed...

[smbrouss70]

Why not make a few modifications up front to be able to use a coil-over where the spring usually goes? That way you can dial it in when you get it on the road.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=266485

[DKN]

Lowering the truck will help it to handle better. Use a sway bar to help the opposite end of the truck. Example; a front sway bar helps the rear to get more traction and it reduces the front traction by a larger amount than the rear gained. This is also true with running stiffer springs like you typicaly find in a coil over shock assembly. The difference in traction gained and traction lost wil resault in chassis twist. The chassis was not built that stiff so I recomed a softer suspension. Body roll does NOT equall bad performance. Simply alighn the truck so the front tires have even wear and tempature across the tire when your corning at the limit. If the rear needs more or less traction to be ballanced with the front change the front sway bar/roll resistance. We set up a 1979 with the early trailing arm suspension and all CPP tube arms front and back. The CPP arms will eliminate all the flex and give in the suspension. The truck auto crossed with lap times the same as our 1G Nova. The truck however is comfortable to drive. Keep it low and adjust the front suspension. CPP has all the parts including the steering and brakes to make it handle as good as a Camaro.

Danny Nix
CPP

[mexgrhd68]

Originally Posted by DKN

Lowering the truck will help it to handle better. Use a sway bar to help the opposite end of the truck. Example; a front sway bar helps the rear to get more traction and it reduces the front traction by a larger amount than the rear gained. This is also true with running stiffer springs like you typicaly find in a coil over shock assembly. The difference in traction gained and traction lost wil resault in chassis twist. The chassis was not built that stiff so I recomed a softer suspension. Body roll does NOT equall bad performance. Simply alighn the truck so the front tires have even wear and tempature across the tire when your corning at the limit. If the rear needs more or less traction to be ballanced with the front change the front sway bar/roll resistance. We set up a 1979 with the early trailing arm suspension and all CPP tube arms front and back. The CPP arms will eliminate all the flex and give in the suspension. The truck auto crossed with lap times the same as our 1G Nova. The truck however is comfortable to drive. Keep it low and adjust the front suspension. CPP has all the parts including the steering and brakes to make it handle as good as a Camaro.

Danny Nix
CPP

hey Danny, ill keep this in mind when i get there...thanks!!!

[72hotrod]

I got a big block SWB (coil-spring rear) on a 2/4 static drop (2.5 drop spindle w/standard BB springs on front- ECE 4in drop springs rear ), ECE front/Heilwig rear stabilizer bars, poly bushings for engine-trans-body-bars, cheap stock quality shocks and 275/60-15 Firestones(Indy 500?) on all corners. It's a little harsh, turns in good on the ramps with a little oversteer, stays pretty flat and stable in turns. Not as good with rough surface compliance as before. Rides a little stiff. I plan to go with better shocks and probably air-bags(to fine-tune rates) in the future to try and improve ride and balance.
I once had SWB 6cyl/leaf rear all stock with nothing but 10in wide wheels and L60-15 tires all around that set the bar for general-purpose country road driving comfort, IMO.

Everyone has their own approach, their own favorite theory.
Rigid chassis vs flexible. Firm springs vs soft. Shock rates.
Alignment. Stabilizer bars. Center of gravity. Tires. Weight. It's all about traction and stability. So many variables that play off each other. Bottom line is- it's a truck! You CAN make it a race car, but how much work and money might that be? The trial and error testing to work the bugs out of your combination. Just to be too heavy to hang out at the ragged edge with someone elses lighter car.

No doubt, we would all love the best of everything in speed, quickness, braking, handling and ride quality. But your not going to handle like a Camaro or Corvette, even if you use all Corvette suspension. And if you even get close, you may not like the result, because things you liked about driving your truck could be lost with all the trade-offs.

You need many more responses from people like Danny who have hands-on experience with their setups, and can give a good description of how it works for them, pro and con. Might be a really good topic for it's own "sticky". If enough folks contribute like that, you might have a shot at making a plan that will get you close to a set-up that will work for you, hopefully avoiding too many disappointments.
Just my maybe 2 cents.

[mexgrhd68]

Originally Posted by 72hotrod

I got a big block SWB (coil-spring rear) on a 2/4 static drop (2.5 drop spindle w/standard BB springs on front- ECE 4in drop springs rear ), ECE front/Heilwig rear stabilizer bars, poly bushings for engine-trans-body-bars, cheap stock quality shocks and 275/60-15 Firestones(Indy 500?) on all corners. It's a little harsh, turns in good on the ramps with a little oversteer, stays pretty flat and stable in turns. Not as good with rough surface compliance as before. Rides a little stiff. I plan to go with better shocks and probably air-bags(to fine-tune rates) in the future to try and improve ride and balance.
I once had SWB 6cyl/leaf rear all stock with nothing but 10in wide wheels and L60-15 tires all around that set the bar for general-purpose country road driving comfort, IMO.

Everyone has their own approach, their own favorite theory.
Rigid chassis vs flexible. Firm springs vs soft. Shock rates.
Alignment. Stabilizer bars. Center of gravity. Tires. Weight. It's all about traction and stability. So many variables that play off each other. Bottom line is- it's a truck! You CAN make it a race car, but how much work and money might that be? The trial and error testing to work the bugs out of your combination. Just to be too heavy to hang out at the ragged edge with someone elses lighter car.

No doubt, we would all love the best of everything in speed, quickness, braking, handling and ride quality. But your not going to handle like a Camaro or Corvette, even if you use all Corvette suspension. And if you even get close, you may not like the result, because things you liked about driving your truck could be lost with all the trade-offs.

You need many more responses from people like Danny who have hands-on experience with their setups, and can give a good description of how it works for them, pro and con. Might be a really good topic for it's own "sticky". If enough folks contribute like that, you might have a shot at making a plan that will get you close to a set-up that will work for you, hopefully avoiding too many disappointments.
Just my maybe 2 cents.

hmmm......i may just lower it first, then decide which route to go..maybe ill like it once its lowered and call it done, u know???

[BHyatt]

Should a person "Box" the frame in by welding in cross members and welding in additional ones?