Junk yard a/c conversion

[jojo]

I'd like to get your thoughts on piecing together an a/c system from junk yard exploration.. Of course it would be off our period trucks.

What if I found a mostly complete a/c system at the bone yard?

Can I realistically do a conversion this way (without breaking the bank)?

Has anybody else done this?

[onetoncrewcab]

I see a couple of things why you may want to rethink this:

1. I cannot believe that the AC components for one of these trucks are going to be that plentiful in a junkyard.

2. You are going to get a system designed for R12 instead of the newer R134. R12 is near obsolete anymore. You could probably convert whatever you need to, to get it to run R134, but why would you? By the time you paid for the junkyard parts and buy the new components for the R134 conversion, my guess is that you could have bought a new aftermarket system and been done. There are cheap "conversion kits" available to replace the R12 with R134, but I think to do it right, some expensive hardware needs to be replaced too.

Those are just two of the major things that I can think of. For around $1000, you can go new and be done.

Here is a website I found of some conversion tips. This is a pro-you-don't-need-to-replace-any-hardware viewpoint:

http://www.teamchicago.com/imperial/imp-ac.htm

One guy spent over $500 converting his car over to R134.

Mike

[low'n slow]

It can be done on the cheap. The conversion to R134 is not that expensive. You could be in it a lot less than $1000. However, thius would be the time to upgrade to a newer compressor. Any local A/C shop or major auto parts store (NAPA, etc) can usually fab up the hoses.

Make sure you get the flap from the cowl area and the passenger side vent.

[rsavage]

I bought a very rusty C20 with air as a parts truck for $500 a couple of years ago. The only good sheet metal was the hood. However it had a complete working ac system, a good running 70 350, a TH350 and a cruise control. I sold the TH350, kept the 350, sold the cruise (PO kept the tilt column with the switch), kept the PS and PB setups, kept the 4 core radiator clutch fan, etc., sold other misc. pieces and scrapped the rest. All the AC parts I needed ended up costing me $0. There is a ton of stuff you need - lots of little bits so -it's a lot easier to do if you can find a single complete donor reasonably.

[onetoncrewcab]

Originally Posted by low'n slow

It can be done on the cheap. The conversion to R134 is not that expensive. You could be in it a lot less than $1000. However, thius would be the time to upgrade to a newer compressor. Any local A/C shop or major auto parts store (NAPA, etc) can usually fab up the hoses.

Make sure you get the flap from the cowl area and the passenger side vent.

No offense to low'n slow...but that is what I am talking about...

A reman compressor on-line at Advance Auto Parts is $240...granted...you may be able to save a few buck by shopping around, but lets go with the $240 figure.

Throw in some new hoses now and incendentals (o-rings). For the sake of argument...lets say $100.

Toss in the conversion kit. No idea how much.

Some places recommend replacing the accumulator/drier...

By the time you spend hours pulling parts off of some junker pickup and screwing around trying to make it all work....I think you are going to be over $500 by the time you get done and half new parts in the system anyway.

But that is just my thoughts....

Mike

[ERASER5]

Being that the PO is from Texas, I agree. Buy and after market. There is a lot to change a non-AC cab into a factory AC cab.

Me being in Indiana, I do have reasons to want factory AC over aftermarket. It is all about what your needs.

[nyncompute]

I'm by no means an expert on A/C . The conventional wisdom Ive gleaned from reading all the forums on this topic.
-Can be an economical and good sense idea if you have the 4 seasons type unit already , to keep it. Some say even stay with r12 as its price has stabilized a bit. If not an a/c truck, as stated might be wiser to buy a kit.
- According to sources on the auto a/c forum: the units originally on these trucks is thought to be one of the best systems ever designed. But some of the new kits get rave reviews and are relatively easy to put in.

[Bad70sbchevy]

Well, there is a very cheap (and ghetto) way to do it. All you need is a window unit ac and a power inverter...

[mrein3]

I went stock and would do it again.
I purchased all the parts off of an AC truck that was getting parted. That cost me $100.
THE ONLY "R134a conversion" you need to do adjust the POA. To do that click here and scroll down a few posts:
http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...AR_MSGDBTABLE=
Everything else on a stock system will work. I would get a new or remanfactured compressor if you are unsure of the one you got. I would also purchase new hoses from any supplier that sells stock hose assemblies. You also MUST purchase a new receiver/dryer. You need a new receiver/dryer no matter what system you go with.

[tonypaul]

Originally Posted by Bad70sbchevy

Well, there is a very cheap (and ghetto) way to do it. All you need is a window unit ac and a power inverter...

Or a REALLLY long extension cord....

[robreil]

I am considering this as well as I am looking at my list of options for an AC truck to drive/restore here in Atlanta.

I really want to go with stock air, but I notice there are many more options for good trucks w/o air. I see the wisdom in buying a parts truck for the a/c. But what of the dash?

I see the dash is different w/ vs w/o the factory air. What is involved in putting OEM vents in a non air dash? Totally different dash? Grinder and drill for cut outs? What?

Also how long would you estimate it would take to install all the stripped parts from a donor to the vehicle. Not to charge it, just to install the parts. I realize I would need to get a new drier, and maybe compressor. But I am more worried about all the other stuff like the compressor brackets, holes in the heads for mounting, glove box, heater core change over, ducts, hoses etc. I know full well I will easily drop a G into this conversion and I prefer to do that vs a bolt on aftermarket solution.

Advice?

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by robreil

I am considering this as well as I am looking at my list of options for an AC truck to drive/restore here in Atlanta.

I really want to go with stock air, but I notice there are many more options for good trucks w/o air. I see the wisdom in buying a parts truck for the a/c. But what of the dash?

I see the dash is different w/ vs w/o the factory air. What is involved in putting OEM vents in a non air dash? Totally different dash? Grinder and drill for cut outs? What?

Also how long would you estimate it would take to install all the stripped parts from a donor to the vehicle. Not to charge it, just to install the parts. I realize I would need to get a new drier, and maybe compressor. But I am more worried about all the other stuff like the compressor brackets, holes in the heads for mounting, glove box, heater core change over, ducts, hoses etc. I know full well I will easily drop a G into this conversion and I prefer to do that vs a bolt on aftermarket solution.

Advice?

The firewall is different too.

I bought a stock AC dash and just used it for a template to make my non AC dash into an AC dash. I used a die grinder and a hole saw. Die grinder for the center, above the radio hole. The hole saw did the stock vent holes.

[robreil]

Originally Posted by mrein3

The firewall is different too.

What tools/mods to the firewall?
What is the estimated conversion/installation time for a skilled fabricator with hand / air tools?

[robreil]

Originally Posted by tonypaul

Or a REALLLY long extension cord....

Or a generator in the bed.

[ChevLoRay]

Here's a pic showing the two firewalls interposed for comparison...or so I thought. I didn't save it, but here's a non-AC firewall (red) and an AC firewall. The part that matters is the part that isn't rusted-out on the black firewall. The holes are slightly different in size and placement.

[69sixpackbee]

I did it. No prob.

Bud

[robreil]

Originally Posted by ChevLoRay

Here's a pic showing the two firewalls interposed for comparison...or so I thought. I didn't save it, but here's a non-AC firewall (red) and an AC firewall. The part that matters is the part that isn't rusted-out on the black firewall. The holes are slightly different in size and placement.

I see a die grinder and a sanding drum with a couple hole saws. No problem. 2-3 hours with fenders and motor on chasis hours?

[1-PU70]

I did the conversion about 15 years ago, from a non ac truck to factory ac. Back then you could go to any pick and pull and get what ever you needed. I used original hoses which still work. The only thing was a reman compressor and a new dryer. Cut the holes in the dash too. Worked good then converted to 134 when everyone started to. Still workes good. Went from a SB to BB got all the brackets and pulleys no problem. As for the cost. Even 15 years ago when all was said and done I was in about a grand. That was with evacuating and charging by a AC shop. I wanted the factory look and that was the way to do it. If you dont care about the look I think I would go aftermarket. But if you want to pop the hood and have it look like I came from the factory there is only one way to go. Good luck.

[1stimer]

I've been a long time member of a a mercedes forum. The general wisdom over there is NOT to convert an R12 system to R134. You can buy R12 legally if you take a test from this website http://www.macsw.org/AM/Template.cfm...on=Section_609

....I think it is $20.

OR....you can just buy it on e-bay by stating that you are going to have it installed by a trained tech.

[Nat11]

Has anybody reused a condensor off another vehicle on a 47ish Chevy pickup?

[motorcritter]

The size and hookups are probably the only things to be concerned with. A/C stuff can be mixed and matched, up to a point. Converting these older systems from POA to orifice tube, and variable capacity compressors is pretty straightforward, if you know your way around mobile A/C systems.
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[Mapearso]

Thanks guys, this is a helpful thread...

So from what I am reading.... I can pull a system off a mid/late 70s truck in the yard and use it on my truck? Are the key parts such as the compressor and drier the same as on our 67-72s??

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Mapearso

Thanks guys, this is a helpful thread...

So from what I am reading.... I can pull a system off a mid/late 70s truck in the yard and use it on my truck? Are the key parts such as the compressor and drier the same as on our 67-72s??

I don't think so. You really need a 68-72 Condenser to fit the core support although later may fit. You could use a 73+ outer box, but the later inside box wont fit. It is really jammed under the dash of a 67-72 and uses soft hoses to the vents where the 73+ is hard ducts. The compressor and brackets for later will work if you change to a long water pump-but the A6 compressor is a HP hog and the newer R4 compressors need at least monthly use or they will leak. Even if the soft hoses fit I would not use them-get new hoses. If I were doing this I would find a stock 67-72 inside box and controls; new Condenser; and new Sanden compressor, hose, and brackets. On the outside box stock 67-72 with POA valve or 77-87 with cycling system and accumulator instead of dryer. IMHO 73-76 with dryer and expansion valve is not worth the hassle. I have successfully converted POA systems to cycling with happy customers, but there are many I have read about that did not like it.