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09-05-2010, 01:35 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Fordland, MO
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Still issues with the lines
Well, took everyones advice and just made my own body mount spacers out of 1/4 inch stock. Got the passenger side door opening nice and good, but the driver's side just won't come in. No matter how much I shim under the #2 position, the door opening won't open up enough to get the windshield frame far enough forward. The top of the vent window is hitting the top of the w/s frame. Guess I'm going to have to make braces to go from the roll bar to the windshield frame to push it out far enough.
I'm thinking about tieing them into the visor mounts, but wondered if anyone else had tried another way? The other thing I thought was to tie them into the top mount bolt on the w/s frame. Let me know what else you guys think. Thanks, Jeff.
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1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty |
09-05-2010, 03:17 PM | #2 |
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Re: Still issues with the lines
Here's a couple of pics of what I'm talking about:
Drivers side:
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1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty |
09-05-2010, 03:17 PM | #3 |
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Re: Still issues with the lines
Passenger side:
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1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty |
09-05-2010, 07:30 PM | #4 |
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Location: Northern Virginia
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Re: Still issues with the lines
I am going to but have not yet made braces off the roll bar to the sunvisor. I saw a new jeep and its cage was made like that. I thought of making them adjustable so when I went to remove the to etc i could have them out of the way.
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09-05-2010, 09:07 PM | #5 |
Back in the sticks
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Location: Fordland, MO
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Re: Still issues with the lines
I'm thinking the same thing. I went to Lowe's and picked up some 1/2 inch bolts and 3/4 inch pipe to make the adjustable portion. I'll post some more pics up once I get the windshield side brackets bent up out of 1/8 inch stock.
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1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty |
09-05-2010, 09:13 PM | #6 |
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Re: Still issues with the lines
Shims under #2 won't help that gap I don't believe as the door is hung from #1(a-pillar).
If the rocker gap and rear door gap are good, measure to see if the left side is back a bit at the top corner.
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1972 factory 2 Wheel Drive Blazer-Sold 1972 K10 4X4-Sold 1971 Chevrolet Cheyenne/10-Sold 1970 Chevrolet C/10-Sold 1968 GMC 4X4-Project 1968 Chevrolet C/10 Pro Street 1970 GMC 3/4 Ton-Parts 1997 2WD 2DR Yukon-Sweet http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335664 |
09-06-2010, 10:27 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Fordland, MO
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Re: Still issues with the lines
I thought number 2 was where you had to adjust that gap. Not real sure as everything I've tried has failed. Shimming number one just moves the w/s closer, so thats not working. Not shimming it to mach the passenger side makes it look like its lopsided. Once I get my brackets bent up today, I'll post pics after I have it installed. I'll leave the body mounts loose to see where the floor moves to. PS, the rocker on that side isn't installed yet as I wanted to get the door gaps right before welding it in.
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1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty |
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