Brake residual valve?

[chip46wis]

Ok the brakes on my 69 are ALL new 1985 disks up front, re-built stock drums on the back.I do have a stock proportioning valve in here also,next to the master cyl. I can pump the brakes and get fronts for a couple minutes then I have to pump them again to get a peddle.
Do I need residual valves front and rear 2lb and 10 lb respectively? or just 1 or the other. The master is new stock type in the standard position. Thanks

[ERASER5]

You need a 10# residual valve for the rear drums. As long as your MC is at the up on the firewall, the front disks do not need any residual valve. The 2# valve is for guys that have the MC under the floor.

You said you had a "stock proportioning valve." Stock for what? Not your truck I hope. You need to have a disc/drum proportioning valve. The one from the donor 85 will work just fine.

[chip46wis]

Eraser5 Thank you very much,I should have included the --stock--- prop valve was from a 72 cheyenne w/disk. I will order a 10# for the rears and post how it works---again THANK YOU!!!!

[raycow]

You MAY need a residual valve, but you definitely need bleeding first. Any time you can get the pedal up by pumping it, that is a good indication that there is air somewhere in the system. Check the adjustment on the rears first before you start bleeding.

Ray

[Shane]

i agree with ray ... also, a properly working proportioning valve does not require additional residual valves ...

[cdowns]

when bleeding brakes clamping the centering pin assures proper bleeding the first time

i agree no need for an addition of a residual valve

[robnolimit]

With the stock metering block int place, you shouldn't need any more valving. The metering block has check valves built into it. Bleeding is what you need. 1. Adjust the rear drums, if you lift the rear and rotate a tire, you should hear just a little brake drag. once adjusted, start bleeding at the drivers front, then pass ft, then the rears. You will need to push 6 to 8 oz. of fluid through EACH bleed port. Then, go around again. Sounds like a pain, but a large bottle of brake fluid is cheeper than one check valve.

[LONGHAIR]

Agreed with robnolimit and cdowns to a degree.

Exceptions being:
Start bleeding from the rear, right rear to be exact. You work your way from the wheel that is the farthest distance to the master cylinder, finishing with the closest.
I am not a believer in the clamping the centering pin of the proportioning valve. Just don't over-travel the pedal when bleeding.

For a "complete" system, where everything was dry, I prefer gravity bleeding.
Open all of the bleeder valves, take the cap off of the master cylinder, and let it flow. Do not touch the pedal and be sure to keep the master cylinder filled-up as it runs down. After everything seems to flow out for a while, go back and close them up. Top off the master cylinder and test the pedal.

[chip46wis]

Good advice given and well taken on this end Thank you.