Install tips for Edlebrock intake and carb

[nikwho]

So, I picked up an Edlebrock performer rpm intake manifold and a 1406 edlebrock carb for my truck. I got a new cap and rotor, thermostat, thermostat housing, carb gasket, intake manifold gaskets and manifold bolts. Is there anything that I am not thinking of for this install? Any thing special to hook my factory throttle cable to my new carb? Any advice about any problems I will probably run into would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Nik

[nikwho]

Oh, my new carb has electric choke. Is it just two wires(pos and ground) that will hook up?

[faribran]

have you made provisions for a different hook up of the gas line? (are you replacing a different kind of carb?, the lines may need to be re-routed)

[HOGDADDY]

YouTube - Edelbrock Carburetor...

Be sure and look at all the video's for install.

Hopefull you are using a non-steel intake gasket (composite) for your aluminum intake although some people may differ here but imho its best.

Last but not least I would recommend a Edelbrock 1/2" heat insulator/spacer for carb also.

[baggedcten]

You also might want to buy some valve cover gaskets on my truck i had to take the valve covers off to get the manifold off.

[nbpro]

INSTRUCTION SHEETS FOR MOST EDELBROCK COMPONENTS

[gchemist]

Remember the cable lever adaptor and intake mount bracket. Any carb mount bracket will flex. I have yet to see a nice working carb mounting bracket for cables. Edelbrocks intake mount bracket works great. I have one on my truck. You'll need a vacuum gauge to tune it.

[benoit454]

sometimes you get fuel boil or perculation on hot days due to the alum. intake and carb, an edelbrock heat insulator gasket fixed that on mine.

As for the bracket flexing yea they move, but I got a cheap spectra chrome one on mine and it works fine been on the motor for years, no drivability problems or anything.

Also hope you got the kickdown stud and throttle stud if not you're gonna need them, they don't come with it. You can make them work with bolts and nuts, but for a clean and easy install you can get the studs for like $5 each. Not to mention the bolts and nuts, you had to leave the first nut loose so the cable can move, then put on a 2nd nut to lock it in place so it don't back off. If you change brackets you may need a throttle return spring bracket or different spring.

As others said you need a vac. gauge to tune it right, you can use one of the hand pumps it works, it's what I used. Also need a timing light to set your timing once done.

May ned a heater hose nipple, in case you can't get the old one out of the old intake and should use antisieze on it.

[PRattenbury]

Before you can get your old intake off, you will have to remove your distributor. Before you remove your distributor, set the engine at the #1 cylinder TDC. Then take it out, and remove your intake. Don't rotate the crank until you get your new intake on, and your distributor back in. That will keep life simple for you.

[GMC Guy]

don't forget to plug any unused water ports on the front. if i can remember right there two on the front of the intake. also carb studs, you'll need longer ones if running a spacer. trust me, you'll need the spacer

[nikwho]

Originally Posted by faribran

have you made provisions for a different hook up of the gas line? (are you replacing a different kind of carb?, the lines may need to be re-routed)

any tips on this aspect? Is there a kit or a new fuel line from the fuel pump up that makes it easier?

[GMC Guy]

what i did was cut the factory steel fuel line where it comes up to the manifold. then i ran 3/8 fuel line with an in-line filter up to the carb. (you need to run an in-line filter)

[nikwho]

did you cut it and use a flare fitting or something, or just cut it and slip a rubber hose over it?

[benoit454]

I've done the same, just cut and slipped the line over, if you can flare it, won't hurt a thing, it'll only help it to not slip off. If the clamp is tight enough or you double clamp it'll be ok, I've ran many that way, but again if you can flare it do so.


or another thing I've done is get 2 barb'd ends, or nipples, one to fit in the carb and one to fit the pump itself, then put on a rubber hose from pump to carb, ran it behind the water pump or alt. to keep it tight to the block and out of the way of belts, pulleys, and the fan.

Summit has edelbrock fuel line kits with gauges, filter, and usually barbed ends on them. I would have to 2nd the inline filter, I always run one up there a clear one.

[GMC Guy]

yep, just slipped it over and double clamped it

[sixshooter798]

As most people have already stated, you'll need the kickdown and throttle bracket thingy, and a way to run your fuel line. I used a fitting at the end of the factory steel fuel line that allowed me to attach 3/8" fuel line to it.

I'm not sure if anyone mentioned it, but my 1400 Edelbrock carb required that the throttle return spring go the opposite way. That is, instead of mounting to the throttle bracket on the carb and go toward the firewall, my carb needed a bracket so the spring could go toward the radiator. I made my own with a piece of metal that I found in the desert, or you can buy one from Autozone or Kragen or whatever for about $5. I used a manifold bolt to hang onto it.

[benoit454]

yea mines on the front too but the other one same carb is hooked like stock on the 305, just gotta hook it low, I actually hooked it behind the kickdown on that stud and then hooked it to the factory spot, it's a factory gm double spring from a quadrajet.

[MTCK]

What tranny are you running? If it's a 700r4 I would look at a "tv made ez" kit from bowtie overdrives. There is a good write up on their web site for why you need it.
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[nikwho]

I have a manual 4spd. No kickdown cable.

[HOGDADDY]

Originally Posted by nikwho

did you cut it and use a flare fitting or something, or just cut it and slip a rubber hose over it?

Edelbrock sells a kit with a compression fitting for the steel line also that is nice but its not really necessary. I like it myself.

[gary2232]

Just put my 1406 on last night. And very little fit as they said. The biggest problem for me is I do not like how I have to push the throttle cable bracket back toward firewall to to get full travel. It really kinks cable and bracket wants to slip out of position. Lots of little things to get worked out. Not running well yet. Is there a link as to how to tune with the vacuum gage??