NP205...all it took was a little wheelin'.....

[Davetopay]

....and now she's a leaker.

I'm looking around at rebuild/reseal kits on line. Most seem to be about the same price, but I just don't know which one would be the best quality. Any previous experience?

[1rocky]

maybe look for a good take out that does not leak

1Rocky

[Davetopay]

Originally Posted by 1rocky

maybe look for a good take out that does not leak

1Rocky

50-100 dollars for a seal kit, vs 300+ for an unknown condition unit...I'll go with the kit. Around here (DC area) you don't find used/takeoff parts like other parts of the country.

[1rocky]

Originally Posted by Davetopay

50-100 dollars for a seal kit, vs 300+ for an unknown condition unit...I'll go with the kit. Around here (DC area) you don't find used/takeoff parts like other parts of the country.

10-4 on the west coast you can sometimes pick up a complete rolling frame for a 100 bucks, I have sold a few just to clean up the yard.

1Rocky

[nyncompute]

If you're going through the hassle of pulling the thing, you might do well to consider just replacing the seals. I just did that chore myself and it wasn't too bad. That way you know the unit and there wouldn't be any surprises with something new.

[turp mcspray]

I just bought a seal and gasket set a couple days ago, at the local truck part/driveline shop. $25.

[Rdrdave]

I've never rebuilt one but it can't be more difficult then rebuilding and engine. Here's a site that shows the rebuild process, w/pics! Good luck.
http://okcnetworks.com/bronco/205/np1.htm

[Billhilly]

Dan at Quad 4X4 has all the bits, and manuals to do the job - http://quad4x4.com/New_Process_NP205_Parts.html Helpful guy with the knowledge to back it up. Give him a call.

[nyncompute]

if it just leaks, there's no need to rebuild anything, Barring finding any surprises, you just need to get the seals and replace them.... easy peezy

[chisler]

On the output shaft yoke seals make sure you stay with the... NATIONAL...brand as they are of the double lip style... CR will be a single lip,and make sure you check the yoke for ...o ring grooves as well...which may require a speedy sleeve or replacement of the yoke... front yoke is the lowest point on this style transfer case

[Davetopay]

Originally Posted by chisler

On the output shaft yoke seals make sure you stay with the... NATIONAL...brand as they are of the double lip style... CR will be a single lip,and make sure you check the yoke for ...o ring grooves as well...which may require a speedy sleeve or replacement of the yoke... front yoke is the lowest point on this style transfer case

EXACTLY the info I was looking for! Thanks Chisler!

[Redcap]

Originally Posted by chisler

On the output shaft yoke seals make sure you stay with the... NATIONAL...brand as they are of the double lip style... CR will be a single lip,and make sure you check the yoke for ...o ring grooves as well...which may require a speedy sleeve or replacement of the yoke... front yoke is the lowest point on this style transfer case

Exactly.

[chisler]

Glad I could help out,down the road I know you would do the same!!!!!!

[Davetopay]

Since it is just the front output which is dribbling, can it be done with the unit in the truck? Or do I have to drop that heavy mofo?

[chisler]

You do not have to remove the transfer case,but the cross support needs to be removed to acess the flange bolts,I did mine before I went elk hunting....took me just over a hour to do it....pull the drive shaft....put a floor jack under the transfer case to support it....drain the unit....then remove the transfer case cross support.....undo the yoke bolt......use pry bar or pipe wrench to hold the yoke while you do this.....remove the flange bolts...and then remove the flange..... pop the old seal out...and in with the new.....but check the yoke for wear as I said before.....take your time and get a buddy to help if you can.......I WAS IN A RUSH TO GO HUNTING AND SHOOT A ELK......LOL

[Davetopay]

Originally Posted by chisler

You do not have to remove the transfer case,but the cross support needs to be removed to acess the flange bolts,I did mine before I went elk hunting....took me just over a hour to do it....pull the drive shaft....put a floor jack under the transfer case to support it....drain the unit....then remove the transfer case cross support.....undo the yoke bolt......use pry bar or pipe wrench to hold the yoke while you do this.....remove the flange bolts...and then remove the flange..... pop the old seal out...and in with the new.....but check the yoke for wear as I said before.....take your time and get a buddy to help if you can.......I WAS IN A RUSH TO GO HUNTING AND SHOOT A ELK......LOL

Very cool. Thanks for the info! Now it just comes down to if I FEEL LIKE doing it my self in the street, or letting the shop at the end of the block do it and saving myself a head ache.