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11-06-2010, 07:16 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord NC
Posts: 512
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1-ton swap
Im helping cousin is replacing his old 10-bolt axles in his 87 silverado w/ a 1-ton set. Im not sure exactly what we will run into. Here are a few things I had in question.
-front brake hoses -rear brake hose -front u-joint -rear u-joint -rear e-brake cables -front steering drag link Will the original master cylinder and prop. valve work ok with the new axles? Im sure there are some guys here that have done this very swap. Thanks in advance for all your help! Last edited by 1972CST; 11-06-2010 at 07:39 PM. |
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11-09-2010, 06:05 PM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord NC
Posts: 512
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Re: 1-ton swap
I guess this kinda thing isnt as common as I thought... maybe another forum would be better?
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11-09-2010, 07:11 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 40
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Re: 1-ton swap
you might be beter off on a rock crawling fourm idk but I would think that the brake stuff would work but the u joints and ect probably wont (not 100% sure though) and the prop valve as long as you stay the same setup disk/drum or disk/disk or drum/drum the prop valve most likely would work good luck!
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11-09-2010, 08:10 PM
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#4 | |
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6>8 Plugless........
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Prairie City, Ia
Posts: 17,143
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Re: 1-ton swap
Quote:
Front hoses could be different due to a bend on them at the caliper on the 1 ton. You might be able to make his work with some modifications to the mounting tab at the frame. Rear brake hose could probably be reused if his is long enough and still good. Front U-joint I'm thinking will need to be replaced because it should be a 1350 and I don't think the 1/2 tons were. I could be wrong though. Rear U-joint same way. I'm betting you wil need different drive shafts as well due to the lengths of the pinions being longer on the 1 dana 60 and the 14 bolt rear. E-brake cables will depend on what year the donor was, but you may be able to make his work. Front steering drag link should work. You may have to adjust it to get the correct amount of travel, but I think the rod end is the same. The original master cylinder and prop. valve should work fine. Hope this helps out. Ryan.
__________________
Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project Tired of spark plugs? Check this out. |
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11-09-2010, 10:45 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 194
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Re: 1-ton swap
10 bolt and Dana 60 calipers share the same banjo bolt so they (brake hoses) will swap.
Dana 44 calipers are just a hair different. Rear brake hose should be fine. If the one ton rear end has that extra valve thing on it, trash it. Front u joint. I think most stock Dana 60's had a 1310 from the factory but many guys switch to a 1350 yoke. Rear joint is a sagnaw 1330 ish type currently. You will need a conversion u0joint up to a 1350 for the 14 bolt. E-brake cables can be made to work. Draglink should be fine. Things you didn't mention: If this is a 14 bolt out of a TRUE one ton vehicle, the spring pads will be too narrow. You will need to cut off the old, and weld on the new. If it is out of a 3/4 ton truck, it will bolt it. U Bolts are different as well as the spring plates. If you are putting on one tons...are you converting to crossover steering also? or is this a tow vehicle? Is it lifted? Disc brake conversions are cheap and work great on a 14 bolt. The pinions on one ton axles are slightly longer then their 10 bolt friends... make sure your drive shafts are not bottoming out. If you are lifting and putting on bigger tires etc...lengthen your wheelbase when you are putting these axles in. Watch out for deathwobbles on the king pins of the Dana 60. Do you have a good steering stabilizer that will fit the 60? Last edited by blakeduren; 11-09-2010 at 10:46 PM. |
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11-10-2010, 02:56 AM
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#6 |
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Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Redding, ca
Posts: 61
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Re: 1-ton swap
i converted my 72 to 1 ton running gear it all went pretty smooth i made my own brake line for the front and the E brake cables hooked up fine there's one thing i can really stress to you if you have the truck and its a true 1 ton it will have hydroboost......pull the old vacuum booster off and put the hydroboost in place of the old booster it is not a hard thing to do there's tons of thread on how to do it........the stock booster and master cylinder doesn't create enough brake assist to stop you you'll be standing on the pedal to stop i know form the hard way!! the brakes on 1 ton running gear are just far to big for the old stock booster and master cylinder plus you'll never see a vacuum brake booster on a 1 ton truck always hydroboost!!...........have fun
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11-10-2010, 06:46 PM
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord NC
Posts: 512
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Re: 1-ton swap
Wow, thanks for the input guys.
The axles will come w/ u-bolts and spring plates. I did forget about needing to move the rear spring perches. A small lift may also be necessary so the drive shafts dont bottom out. I will check on a hydro-boost set up also. Opinions and experience are welcome! 
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